C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Maybe it has something to do with the two piece cables.

Well, I just looked in Black Book and it shows "Cruise" wasn't an option until '77. I'll give 'em a call if I decide to use it. But you know that sounds like a hell of a lot of greese to put in that sheath coming from the bottom and how do you know when to stop pumping it in. If you give it too much, you'll have greese all over the place behind the dash.
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Jud Chapin
Well, I just looked in Black Book and it shows "Cruise" wasn't an option until '77. I'll give 'em a call if I decide to use it. But you know that sounds like a hell of a lot of greese to put in that sheath coming from the bottom and how do you know when to stop pumping it in. If you give it too much, you'll have greese all over the place behind the dash.

I say try the compressed air and graphite powder first...even though the grease tool probably has instructions and tells you how and when to stop.
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
I say try the compressed air and graphite powder first...even though the grease tool probably has instructions and tells you how and when to stop.
That's my plan when I get to it.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Jud Chapin
That's my plan when I get to it.

when is this all supposed to go down? You waiting for weather like most of us do?
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
when is this all supposed to go down? You waiting for weather like most of us do?
Well, I just finished pulling my seats out as I'm taking 'em up to Kissimmee, FL for the NCRS meet and having them redone by Al Knoch. In the process, I noticed that my brake pedal was low and following a check of the master, I found the rear cavity to be empty. Sooo, it looks like I'll be doing some brake work before the speedo.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Jud Chapin
Well, I just finished pulling my seats out as I'm taking 'em up to Kissimmee, FL for the NCRS meet and having them redone by Al Knoch. In the process, I noticed that my brake pedal was low and following a check of the master, I found the rear cavity to be empty. Sooo, it looks like I'll be doing some brake work before the speedo.

Ooh...I love brake work. You're in for a treat.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Ooh...I love brake work. You're in for a treat.
Yeah, and when you don't drive these cars much, the calipers decide to start leaking. They tell you to pump the pedal once in a while when they're not being driven, but I always forget.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Jud Chapin
Yeah, and when you don't drive these cars much, the calipers decide to start leaking. They tell you to pump the pedal once in a while when they're not being driven, but I always forget.

By 'once in a while' do you mean weekly or monthly or daily? I have been guilty of not pumping the pedal for years at a time in my older Vettes that I sold. Oops.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
By 'once in a while' do you mean weekly or monthly or daily? I have been guilty of not pumping the pedal for years at a time in my older Vettes that I sold. Oops.
I really don't know...I would guess every couple of weeks. The idea is to move the seals around so that they don't stick to the cylinders and then tear when you hit the pedal.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Jud Chapin
I really don't know...I would guess every couple of weeks. The idea is to move the seals around so that they don't stick to the cylinders and then tear when you hit the pedal.

Yeah that would be bad.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 07:52 PM
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I have see (but never used) tools that are supposed to do this. They weren't cheap, but the job isn't easy. Check in the catalogs (zip/riks/ecklers/CA or Mid-America) or even the local parts/tools store. Its worth the effort to avoid replacing the cable. Check the 90 degree tach adaptor. You just have to plug the open end...good luck...Joe
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 08:25 PM
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Took mine loose at the transmission, removed one clamp holding it ( don't remember now where clamp was) and pulled the cable back up and out the top of the engine bay. Then I dropped some motor oil slowly down the cable housing. Don't over do it with the oil or it might come out the dash. Do it slowly and wait while it travels downward. Worked for me.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky76
Took mine loose at the transmission, removed one clamp holding it ( don't remember now where clamp was) and pulled the cable back up and out the top of the engine bay. Then I dropped some motor oil slowly down the cable housing. Don't over do it with the oil or it might come out the dash. Do it slowly and wait while it travels downward. Worked for me.

What made you want to use motor oil? Isn't there a specific type of lubricant to use?
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