Why go high tech when old school is just as fast?
#41
Le Mans Master
My wife finds it very easy to dump both accelerator pumps of a Holley into a motor and crank it until the battery is completley DEAD! EFI will save my marriage!
#42
Both Good
There is no doubt the EFI engine is easier to start, tune etc. On the other hand carbs are much better than just a few yrs. ago.
Last edited by msb184; 01-16-2007 at 01:49 AM. Reason: content
#43
I was going to use this line of reasoning but use a wagon wheel as the example instead, I guess your more diplomatic than I am.
#44
One more benifit, I'm not intimidated by todays OEM EFI.
Last edited by shafrs3; 01-14-2007 at 07:04 PM.
#45
Burning Brakes
#46
Race Director
Slap a pair of high flow cats on the 427ci I am building and it would meet emmissions standards in most places.
Tuning a OEM EFI is childs play compared to properly tuning a carb ( I am not talking about changing jets and idle mixure here ) with a wideband, now that really gets complicated
#48
i like old school as well. not worth the money. check out c&s billet aerosol carb. i would like to see an engine tuned with this carb and then with efi and see what the real differences are. plus, when you start looking at fuel mpg, it has come down more to cumbustion chamber design/timing and the overdrive trans. efi helps but is a small role. newer shallower chambers have made the engine more effiecent!
#49
#50
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2002
Location: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
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Holleys modern carb(s) couldn't sell.
Holleys ,better response ,no power valves blowing everytime the carb back fires,better venturies,better porting,mettering,etc.The concept is basically the same just improved upon.Holley also had a carb that was just 2 piece ,easy to take apart,good throttle response,no blown power valves.I forgot the id number of the carb right now off hand.
I still see them for sale used at swapmeets only but don't know if Holley even supports them with parts at all.
Yea Holley made an improved carb and no-one wanted to change - even with Holleys name on it. Carb lovers wanted a Holley because they understood how they worked and recognized Holleys as they were - not a shiny bastard with a top hat instead of fuel bowls. It takes more than good ideas and a brand name to sell something to hotrod enthusiests and racers too. Well maybe it looked too much like a FORD Autolite carb.
Anyone run a 4010 or 4011?
cardo0
#51
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2000
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Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
Lets see.
24 mpg, idles nice and smooth, starts on the first crank after 3 months, and runs a 12 second quarter mile. This is my second FI conversion and will not be my last. Do I hate carbs, nope they just remind me of old tube radios. They actually work good once they warm up.
24 mpg, idles nice and smooth, starts on the first crank after 3 months, and runs a 12 second quarter mile. This is my second FI conversion and will not be my last. Do I hate carbs, nope they just remind me of old tube radios. They actually work good once they warm up.
#53
Race Director
I actually thought exactly what you guys do about carbs all my life untill I got a LM-1 and met a guy who actually forgot more about carbs than I ever knew. Without his help I would still be trying to figure out how to tune my Race Demon.
If you buy a carb and bolt it on make a few adjustments to the float level, idle mixture screws and jets you are just getting it in the ballpark so the motor will run. You will never get the carb properly dialed in unless you can "see" what is going on with a A/F meter.
What you need to do is monitor the A/F at idle, light load, part throttle, WOT etc. From there you will find yourself drilling power valve channel restrictors ( if needed ) , changing emulsion bleeds, drilling and changing high speed air bleeds, idle air bleeds, jets , power valves etc etc depending on what you are seeing on the A/F meter. It is a very time consuming process but the benefits of a properly tuned carb in the end are worth it. You get the nice idle ( not on mine though with the cam) good off idle response, nice clean crisp throttle response when you get on it and like I have already stated good gas mileage, as I posted above I get over 24mpg with my 550HP 406ci.
SO to sum up for the last time, EFI is hands down better across the board than a non tuned carb, but a properly tuned carb will give up nothing to EFI
If you buy a carb and bolt it on make a few adjustments to the float level, idle mixture screws and jets you are just getting it in the ballpark so the motor will run. You will never get the carb properly dialed in unless you can "see" what is going on with a A/F meter.
What you need to do is monitor the A/F at idle, light load, part throttle, WOT etc. From there you will find yourself drilling power valve channel restrictors ( if needed ) , changing emulsion bleeds, drilling and changing high speed air bleeds, idle air bleeds, jets , power valves etc etc depending on what you are seeing on the A/F meter. It is a very time consuming process but the benefits of a properly tuned carb in the end are worth it. You get the nice idle ( not on mine though with the cam) good off idle response, nice clean crisp throttle response when you get on it and like I have already stated good gas mileage, as I posted above I get over 24mpg with my 550HP 406ci.
SO to sum up for the last time, EFI is hands down better across the board than a non tuned carb, but a properly tuned carb will give up nothing to EFI
#55
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2002
Location: Sulphur LA
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19
I actually thought exactly what you guys do about carbs all my life untill I got a LM-1 and met a guy who actually forgot more about carbs than I ever knew. Without his help I would still be trying to figure out how to tune my Race Demon.
If you buy a carb and bolt it on make a few adjustments to the float level, idle mixture screws and jets you are just getting it in the ballpark so the motor will run. You will never get the carb properly dialed in unless you can "see" what is going on with a A/F meter.
What you need to do is monitor the A/F at idle, light load, part throttle, WOT etc. From there you will find yourself drilling power valve channel restrictors ( if needed ) , changing emulsion bleeds, drilling and changing high speed air bleeds, idle air bleeds, jets , power valves etc etc depending on what you are seeing on the A/F meter. It is a very time consuming process but the benefits of a properly tuned carb in the end are worth it. You get the nice idle ( not on mine though with the cam) good off idle response, nice clean crisp throttle response when you get on it and like I have already stated good gas mileage, as I posted above I get over 24mpg with my 550HP 406ci.
SO to sum up for the last time, EFI is hands down better across the board than a non tuned carb, but a properly tuned carb will give up nothing to EFI
If you buy a carb and bolt it on make a few adjustments to the float level, idle mixture screws and jets you are just getting it in the ballpark so the motor will run. You will never get the carb properly dialed in unless you can "see" what is going on with a A/F meter.
What you need to do is monitor the A/F at idle, light load, part throttle, WOT etc. From there you will find yourself drilling power valve channel restrictors ( if needed ) , changing emulsion bleeds, drilling and changing high speed air bleeds, idle air bleeds, jets , power valves etc etc depending on what you are seeing on the A/F meter. It is a very time consuming process but the benefits of a properly tuned carb in the end are worth it. You get the nice idle ( not on mine though with the cam) good off idle response, nice clean crisp throttle response when you get on it and like I have already stated good gas mileage, as I posted above I get over 24mpg with my 550HP 406ci.
SO to sum up for the last time, EFI is hands down better across the board than a non tuned carb, but a properly tuned carb will give up nothing to EFI
Dead on MotorHead, trying to tune a carb without the correct tools is tuning blindfolded. But with the right tools it can be done correctly and the carb will perform flawlessly. BullShark didn't mean to raise your flag but I would suggest you spend a little time over at the LM-1 web site and do a little reading, very knowledgable tuners over there, alot to learn about carbs and tuning them.
#56
Race Director
Member Since: Nov 1999
Location: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
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I'm with Zwede. My house doesn't have single pane windows, an outhouse, or use coal, although many houses used to. Often times, newer things are better.
One thing that most folks have failed to mention is that the aftermarket EFI systems usually come with a great computer and software. Several of us are running the Holley C950 system. At any time, all sorts of parameters in the engine can be measured and/or adjusted - not just the fuel but the ignition, fans, water temp, system voltage, etc. With a system like this, you know exactly what's happening in the engine at all times if you want. It makes it much easier to tune and trouble shoot when something goes wrong...
One thing that most folks have failed to mention is that the aftermarket EFI systems usually come with a great computer and software. Several of us are running the Holley C950 system. At any time, all sorts of parameters in the engine can be measured and/or adjusted - not just the fuel but the ignition, fans, water temp, system voltage, etc. With a system like this, you know exactly what's happening in the engine at all times if you want. It makes it much easier to tune and trouble shoot when something goes wrong...
#57
Race Director
Holleys ,better response ,no power valves blowing everytime the carb back fires,better venturies,better porting,mettering,etc.The concept is basically the same just improved upon.Holley also had a carb that was just 2 piece ,easy to take apart,good throttle response,no blown power valves.I forgot the id number of the carb right now off hand.
#58
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Holley models 4010 and 4011 i believe were modern performance carbs. Good boosters, 2 piece with a top hat eliminated the bowl leaks, manual or vacuum sec, square or spreadbore too. Most were shiny alumium bodies but no-one wanted to buy them. They no longer looked like a Holley and it just turned buyers off. Kind'a had the advantages of Carter AFB and Holleys combined - and the Qjet spreadbore too.
I still see them for sale used at swapmeets only but don't know if Holley even supports them with parts at all.
Yea Holley made an improved carb and no-one wanted to change - even with Holleys name on it. Carb lovers wanted a Holley because they understood how they worked and recognized Holleys as they were - not a shiny bastard with a top hat instead of fuel bowls. It takes more than good ideas and a brand name to sell something to hotrod enthusiests and racers too. Well maybe it looked too much like a FORD Autolite carb.
Anyone run a 4010 or 4011?
cardo0
I still see them for sale used at swapmeets only but don't know if Holley even supports them with parts at all.
Yea Holley made an improved carb and no-one wanted to change - even with Holleys name on it. Carb lovers wanted a Holley because they understood how they worked and recognized Holleys as they were - not a shiny bastard with a top hat instead of fuel bowls. It takes more than good ideas and a brand name to sell something to hotrod enthusiests and racers too. Well maybe it looked too much like a FORD Autolite carb.
Anyone run a 4010 or 4011?
cardo0
#59
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Nov 2003
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CI 5 & 8 Veteran
One good example of what I am talking about is a problem I am dealing with right now. I just purchased a "brand new" Holley original, correct replacement, List 4555 carb for the 70 LT-1. $600 by the way Everything setup per factory right out of the box....I checked all the accessible stuff I installed it per original configuration replacing a perfectly good after market Holley 3310. I now have an off idle hesitation and an even more touchy startup. It's not timing, distributor, vacuum, accel pump/nozzle etc. cause I checked all the easy stuff and it all worked fine with the 3310. I know I will be able to eventually figure it out, but if I had EFI, It would have been solved in a heartbeat. I have pigeon holed it in favor of finishing the installation of a sequential Accel DFI system on RamJet. I know some of you guys won't agree, but when I am done, it will out perform anything I (or anyone else) could have done with a carb. It's been fun, but you guys finally wore me out
Peace
Bullshark
Last edited by Bullshark; 01-15-2007 at 12:32 AM.
#60
EFI has been a huge improvement over carburetor, I have been around long enough to remember the carbureted vehicles myself and family/friends have owned in the past and the drivability problems carburetors have caused. I can remember buying my first EFI equipped truck, a 1990 Chevy extended cab, and enjoying the way it performed and it's unbelievable 18 mpg highway economy. At the time I couldn't believe that much improvement was possible. The prior truck was a 1980 K10 that was getting 11 mpg hwy. I like EFI's ability to enable a engine to start right up from a cold start and run perfectly until the time it's shut off, and if something go awry, it's ability to help pinpoint the problem, I would never want to return to a carb. Sorry if this offends anyone but this has been the observations of myself and nearly anyone I've talked to on this subject over the years. EFI, along with the modern overdrive transmission and the catalytic converter have done more to clean up the air, improve the fuel mileage and the longevity of our cars than anything else.