bluesilver82

Hmmmm, that is a thought. I have a complete spare set up aswell. I might send the spare to him and let him bush the set. Yeah my car runs rich at Idle. No codes in the computer though. Puddy I dont think is the answer but somethingelse may work temporarily.

Copter, I have a spare oem used computer thatworked wwhen it was removed. If your interested let me know. The housing of looks a little rough but the insides look good.

copter

I've heard about the shafts also.Is there a way of testing them?

copter

I might be interested if your sure it works,How much$

jdp6000

Any play is no good but less of an issue as the plates open on excelleration.
At closed...put your finger on the round throttle plate and with the other hand wiggle the shaft...if you feel the round plate move...play is too much...plate should not budge in the closed position.

Try it at full open as well...from my experience there is very minimal play in the open position but some. I've been told there should be none but I can't see how...there has to be a bit of room for the shaft to turn.

Jim

terry82

my throttle plate was so bad ,that when i moved it by hand it would whistle .a guy on the cross-fire forum is putting new bushings in throttle bodys

bluesilver82

I am not sure that it does work but I can hook it up to my car and run the scanner for codes. I suppose that would be the best way to test it.

warrior2291

Well here I am again with the same problem. First I have done everything that the Helms book has told me to do. I have repalced the ECM the TPS the MAP, the O2 sensor the Coolant sensor. I am not getting any check engine lights. But the the car idles fine when you touch the throttle it dumps too much fuel I have rebuilt the throttle bodies the fuel regulators. The only thing I have not changed it the injectors. I seem to have a good strong spray patern but when you check it with a light it looks like drops instead of a smooth spray. So thats the last thing I can do is change the injectors.

I am at my wits end I have cecked for vacum leaks none I have no idea what is left to do. I even check fuel pressure its perfect 9-13 psi I have no leaks anywhere. Does any body out the rre no anything about crossfire injection .

jdp6000

You haven't mentioned what your TPS is set at. What is the reading.

Injectors are expensive ($200 a piece)...do you have access to a pair you can test with??

Just curious but when you disconnect the tan wire to disable the advance do you get a change in RPM???...you should.

Jim

copter

Disableing the advance was my next guess.Man this guy has done everything.I'd be at my wits end and swear up and down I'm going to put a carb on it and be done with it.Injectors are his last thing left to do,but man $200.00!!! where do you even get them.At $200.00 are you getting new or rebuilt?Can you even get rebuilts.I checked my extra set up last night and I swear,they are new,no play what so ever.You would think that it had never been on an engine.With all the problems warrior2291 is having I don't think I'll sell my set up.I had given it some thought because it was taking up space and my wife doesn't understand why it has to be in the house.I think I'll have her read ths.warrior?You never did tell me where you got your hinges??? I'll keep thinking of something else.

copter

Hey,I don't want you to go through all that trouble,but lets just say it tests ok.Mine goes bad.Can I put my case on your that don't look so good.I haven't even looked at mine.Where is it

jdp6000

GM still sells the injectors. Back and front are different. Up here one is $260 CDN and the other is $230 CDN. USD probably around $200. hang on to your set up.

Jim

warrior2291

Ok let me bring you up to date I found a web site that has plenty of injectors for the crossfire, they are remanufactured. i paid 129.00 for each one and they will be here if I am luck friday. I set the TPS at.0575 I believe is what the instruction said + or - 0.75. Its right on the money. I had no problem setting it up. I also installed a new MAP sensor as well. Still have same problem Car starts up fine idles fine but as soon as you crak the throttle it load up and stalls out. I am not getting any check engine light. With a scanner on it while running it was clean. Of course after you adjust the TPS you disconnect the battery to clear codes then you reconnect and start the the engine all was well.. Thsi is just unbelievable, after the injectors there is nothing left for me to do . I have changed every part . This is a brand new engine with all new components I have everything new in that damn engine cmpartment and I can get it to run., I have ran every test i know . I got 2000 mile on the new engine and it ran fine. no problems. Drove car to wrok with full tank of gas. Went home (60Z) mile run burned a tank of gas and it started to brake down. Changed o2 sensor, coolant sensor, no check engine lights then, Rebuilt both throttle bodies one at a time so there was no mixup. Rebuilt fuel regualtors, New ECM, the only thing I did not vhange was the injectors. So thats where I am now.

For the person that asked about my hinges yes I did get them from Steve .worth every penny I paid he is awsome.!!!At least my hatch works great!!!!!!!!
PS call 1-800-685-1925 Ext 107 and ask for Dave http://www.fuelinjectorsdirect.com/ they are out of Jacksonvill Fla........for the injectors

bluesilver82

I wonder if your injectors are partially clogged or something. Once you change the injectors. See if you can clean the originals and keep them as a backup set.

Big2Bird

There's your answer.

warrior2291

I think you may have something there. I have been told you can send them to places and have them re-worked I have been thinking about this.I found out that my fuel regulators were falling apart I figured that maybe somthing could have gotton in the injectors..well anyways its the only thing left to do that I know of........

Big2Bird

jdp6000

You are way out on the TPS. Its .525 plus or minus .075. That means .518 to .532. At .575 is what it should be at about 1500 rpm. There is no margin for error on the .075 not the "0" before the 75...

You sure you didn't set it at 5.25??? notice the "0" is missing. I believe at wid open throttle the TPS max is 4.50v. Range is .0525 to 4.5v.

Could be the injectors. Keep the old ones they are rebuildable.

Jim

warrior2291

Hi Copter did get my hinges from Steve He is awsome It was worth every penny I paid for them . Well at least my hatch works.......

By the way i really am at the end of the trail on this, after the injectors i have no idea whats left to do

warrior2291

Jim you are right and thats what i set it too, I just haad my numbers wrong but I folowed the instructions in the helms book and it is set to those numbers that you have said I just checked it again.I am right on the money
Steve F

jdp6000

Try the basic stuff. Get some throttle body cleaner. Clean out the opening where the IAC's are....unless you have done it already. With the air cleaner off you will see a small opening towards the driver side of the TBI's. The pins of the IAC's cycle in there the open and close that air passage. Thats where you spray.Make sure you are parked slightly up hill so the cleaner doesn't run into the IAC's. After spaying go fo a ride to clear out any left over cleaner.

Everything suggests the CTS is not working or the plugs aren't burning all the fuel. Thats provided the injectors are good. Did you go with the new style CTS...2 wire type? Are the wires for the CTS okay? Double check the CTS. Un plug it. Jump the two wires. Run the engine at normal operating temperature for 1 minute or until the "check engine light" comes on. While idling remove the jumper. Check for codes. Code 14 only means a bad connection or bad ECM. Code 14 and 15 means bad CTS. You want to see code 14 and 15 together.

Basically you need to see 4 volts on those two wires.

To check the CTS get it hot. Check the voltage on the two wires from the CTS. Over 4 volts...check ohms on the sensor terminals should be under 1000 ohms. If ithis all checks out it indicates a bad connection somewhere. If over 4 volts and over 1000 ohms means a bad CTS. Below 4 volts on the initial check means bad connection or bad ECM.

Here is how the system should work. Cold start. Turn key...fuel pump turns on for 2 seconds. You should hear a prime pulse from the injectors...about 1 second. Start the engine. At cold start should go to 1200 rpm...and stay steady. On warm up should drop to 600 or 700 rpm.

Assuming the injectors are good. Something is telling the ECM to dump more fuel. I mentioned no t burning clean above. Thats another storey. If the the fuel isn't burning clean the O2 won't read the emissions correctly. I have heard of cases where the plugs were the cause of this or ignition components (coil, module, etc).

Wait for the injectors and see what happens.

Jim