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Jim, Let me answer your questions here. I have changed the CTS and have checked the wiring. I changed over to the new type CTS since that was all i could get for this car. I checked the wiring.although I have not read the wiring out, I have checked the connections and they appear alright since i made sure when I installed the new CTS it came with a new connector.
SO I guess I need to read the CTS out.Everything you said about how the system works is working.that is turns on for 2 seconds does got to 1200 rpm does go to 600 rpm......You are right and i agree with you that something is tell the car to run lean. thus causing it to dump fuel. It idles fine no problem but the minet you touch the throttle (give it some gas ) it loads up and stalls out.so with that said I cant drive it.........
Now i agree with you on the plugs but I dont want to change them again until I get this problem fixed.its the 2nd set i put in......So I woulkd rather wait until I solve the problem then i will change plugs and oil again.
Is ther any chance I can call you and talk to you.
Last edited by warrior2291; Feb 15, 2007 at 10:30 AM.
Jim, Let me answer your questions here. I have changed the CTS and have checked the wiring. I changed over to the new type CTS since that was all i could get for this car. I checked the wiring.although I have not read the wiring out, I have checked the connections and they appear alright since i made sure when I installed the new CTS it came with a new connector.
SO I guess I need to read the CTS out.Everything you said about how the system works is working.that is turns on for 2 seconds does got to 1200 rpm does go to 600 rpm......You are right and i agree with you that something is tell the car to run lean. thus causing it to dump fuel. It idles fine no problem but the minet you touch the throttle (give it some gas ) it loads up and stalls out.so with that said I cant drive it.........
Now i agree with you on the plugs but I dont want to change them again until I get this problem fixed.its the 2nd set i put in......So I woulkd rather wait until I solve the problem then i will change plugs and oil again
Is it dumping fuel though??? Or do you think its puddling? When you hit the gas you should see an increase in fuel from the injectors but it should still be smooth and cone shaped. There is not carbon build up in the intake is there??
Tough to figure these things out with out actually being there.
Have you played with the air settings on the either TBI...the adjuster screws are capped...and require the removal of those caps to get at them.
Is it dumping fuel though??? Or do you think its puddling? When you hit the gas you should see an increase in fuel from the injectors but it should still be smooth and cone shaped. There is not carbon build up in the intake is there??
Tough to figure these things out with out actually being there.
Have you played with the air settings on the either TBI...the adjuster screws are capped...and require the removal of those caps to get at them.
Jim
Jim when I changed the engine I did adjust the adust the little screws behind those caps, It has been running fine for almot 2000 miles on the new engine. When you advance the throttle from idle to more throttle I see a cone shape spray with the timing light , however and I am no expert it appears that I am getting droplets of fuel instad of a nice high pressure mist thats what i think I am seeing.......
Jim when I changed the engine I did adjust the adust the little screws behind those caps, It has been running fine for almot 2000 miles on the new engine. When you advance the throttle from idle to more throttle I see a cone shape spray with the timing light , however and I am no expert it appears that I am getting droplets of fuel instad of a nice high pressure mist thats what i think I am seeing.......
If its dripping its probably the injectors. Easy test. unplug the wires from both injectors. Turn the car over. There should be no fuel dripping. nothing should come out at all if the injectors are good.
Do you have a manometer? Required to check the balance of the TBI's. Those srews are what you use to balance the TBI's.
If its dripping its probably the injectors. Easy test. unplug the wires from both injectors. Turn the car over. There should be no fuel dripping. nothing should come out at all if the injectors are good.
Do you have a manometer? Required to check the balance of the TBI's. Those srews are what you use to balance the TBI's.
Jim
I have not checked the injectors that way but I will.as for the tool you describe no I do not have one
Weired that it ran fine for 2000 miles if its a balancing issue.Here is a link on how to balance the TBI's. Out of adjustment TBI's could also cause your problem. http://corvettefever.com/techarticles/4688/index.html
do you know someone who has a ecm that they know is good ?I read that you have changed the ecm but you could have a bad new one .some thing that i would check would be the ground for the ecm .i would talk with twin turbo or ken on the cross-fire forum they are the best for the cross-fire .let us know what you find.
Hey,I don't want you to go through all that trouble,but lets just say it tests ok.Mine goes bad.Can I put my case on your that don't look so good.I haven't even looked at mine.Where is it
The computer is in the battery compartment, Its the silver box about the size of a cigar box. I think you could probably swap the guts. You know you could just have a bad prom chip. The prom is easy to change out. I have the hypertech chip in my car. There is only a slight differance in performance improvement. Not worth the $160.00 in my opinion.
Warrior......How can you tell if the regulators are falling apart? They are totaly encased are'nt they?
Last edited by bluesilver82; Feb 15, 2007 at 04:59 PM.
The computer is in the battery compartment, Its the silver box about the size of a cigar box. I think you could probably swap the guts. You know you could just have a bad prom chip. The prom is easy to change out. I have the hypertech chip in my car. There is only a slight differance in performance improvement. Not worth the $160.00 in my opinion.
Warrior......How can you tell if the regulators are falling apart? They are totaly encased are'nt they?
What you say is not totaly true about the regulators they sell a regulator re-build kit which i bought for front and rear and I re-built them. Kit only cost me 40.00 ea. As for the ECM I have replace the ECM and your right that could be the problem but would I not get a check engine light with a code for a bad ECM???
I have not changed the Prom but I guess I could do that. I am not getting any check engine lights. By the way when I started the car the other day it idles fine just the way that it has been described here. But I noticed with the tester on the car it ran a rich code for about a min then went into a closed loop mode and ran lean.strange
The part that gives it away is the tank of gas in 75 miles.
I really believe a bad injector is the only failure that could dump in that much gas. Even in default mode, the computer would never call for that much fuel.
These early ECM's are not as smart as a Commodore 64. They do not pick up injector failure. It assumes the mechanics are functioning correctly.
If you run it and look at the spray with a timing light, and see "droplets", it's the injectors.
Last edited by Big2Bird; Feb 16, 2007 at 08:47 AM.
Reason: spelling
Most any Prom/Comp failure would be catastrophic. The car would not run. If you are concerned about it, clean the comp terminals. The brilliance of placing this unit in the "battery" compartment causes corrosion at the terminals. Cleaning them can do only good, but no harm.
What you say is not totaly true about the regulators they sell a regulator re-build kit which i bought for front and rear and I re-built them. Kit only cost me 40.00 ea. As for the ECM I have replace the ECM and your right that could be the problem but would I not get a check engine light with a code for a bad ECM???
I have not changed the Prom but I guess I could do that. I am not getting any check engine lights. By the way when I started the car the other day it idles fine just the way that it has been described here. But I noticed with the tester on the car it ran a rich code for about a min then went into a closed loop mode and ran lean.strange
Lets see if your new injectors solve the problem. But i don't know. I've seen one injector go but both at the same time??? I assume they are both dumping fuel??? Remember the front and rear injectors are different and can not be mixed up.
Lets see if your new injectors solve the problem. But i don't know. I've seen one injector go but both at the same time??? I assume they are both dumping fuel??? Remember the front and rear injectors are different and can not be mixed up.
Jim
Jim you are right , But I did check the injectors last night I disconnected them and they did not leak and fuel while cranking the engine. But I already have new injectors on the way both front and rear. I will change them . I too am thinking your way I really dont think it will fix my problem. I am very confused because everything in the system has been replaced, or re-built, (ie) throttle bodies, fuel regulators I even checked the fuel pressure 13 psi . I replaced the CTS, the MAP, the TPS all is set according to specs. I am thinking that if I had a bad ecm the car would not even start.
The car starts fine idles fine at 1200 rpm at cold start when warm, idles at 600 rpm. When i begine to advance the throttle I got a good strong spray from both injectors. I checked the timing its at 6 degrees. The car has run fine with a new crate engine in it for over 2000 miles. I went to work one way 50 mile run with a full tank of gas ran fine . Got back in to go home 50 mile run and it started to brake down. I have checked everything ai can or at least I think I have.
I am begininng to think that maybe its not advancing but I will need to understand that system and see if I can locate a problem that way.....
Last edited by warrior2291; Feb 16, 2007 at 11:40 AM.
Most any Prom/Comp failure would be catastrophic. The car would not run. If you are concerned about it, clean the comp terminals. The brilliance of placing this unit in the "battery" compartment causes corrosion at the terminals. Cleaning them can do only good, but no harm.
Big2bird i have done all that when I changed the ecm, but it was a good thought on your part
Steve
do you know someone who has a ecm that they know is good ?I read that you have changed the ecm but you could have a bad new one .some thing that i would check would be the ground for the ecm .i would talk with twin turbo or ken on the cross-fire forum they are the best for the cross-fire .let us know what you find.
I would be happy to talk to them I will even call them if they give me their phone number or I can give them mine.......again though if I had a ecm problem I believe it would not start or maybe even not run at all i have a good running condition form cold start to idle, when I advance throttle engine rpm increases and good fuel flow into injectors nice spray cone under a timing light btu it loads up with fuel and then cuts out
Steve,
This is my stance.I hope my repetition does not annoy. Go back to the beginning. "75 miles on a tank." 20 galls at 80 miles = 1 qt per mile.
There is NOTHING in the open or closed loop that would command that much fuel. All things point to the injectors.
I will now shut up.
Steve,
This is my stance.I hope my repetition does not annoy. Go back to the beginning. "75 miles on a tank." 20 galls at 80 miles = 1 qt per mile.
There is NOTHING in the open or closed loop that would command that much fuel. All things point to the injectors.
I will now shut up.
Big2 Bird please dont do that I value your help as everyone else here, Thats why I am changing the injectors, you may be right on this but what the heck if owning a crossfire was easy i would not want the car.....besides you have helped me as much as anyone .I shall endaver to purserver!!!!!!!!!!!!