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I think that Clint has hit is on the head. Either a diode in the rectification bridge is leaking or your voltage regulator (I am assuming that the ALt has an internal regulator) has a bad ziner diode on Tr2.
A good alternator should put out 13.8-14.2 volts once the engine is just started.
I think that Clint has hit is on the head. Either a diode in the rectification bridge is leaking or your voltage regulator (I am assuming that the ALt has an internal regulator) has a bad ziner diode on Tr2.
A good alternator should put out 13.8-14.2 volts once the engine is just started.
Bob
Brand spanking new Powermaster alternator--this is the second one that has failed me in the last year--the other broke mechanically the first week.
Do you have anything unusual in the electrical system...like a high wattage stereo amp? If you are drawing excessive current, you could be blowing the diodes. [Big bass speakers draw a lot of current spikes that you won't see on the ammeter.]
A DIM alt/gen light is frequently caused by reversing the leads going into the regulator.....nothing to do with main stud output wiring....
EXCEPT when viewing from the rear of the alt....the MOST CLOCKWISE wire will allways have system voltage on it.....even when key is off, car parked.....
when key is in the run position , AND THE ENGINE IS RUNNING is the ONLY time the second wire will have voltage on it, what happens is the regulator pulls that wire to ground to light the bulb.....
what can happen is if the wires are reversed is when engine is running, the bulb acts to activate the reg as if it was the system wire....fed NOW through the ignition ON position of the sw.....light glows dim....
this is a frequent wiring error when replacing the connector, a famous item, and the color codes and wiring age sure as hell don't make it any easier.....
Do you have anything unusual in the electrical system...like a high wattage stereo amp? If you are drawing excessive current, you could be blowing the diodes. [Big bass speakers draw a lot of current spikes that you won't see on the ammeter.]
The battery acts as a buffer for these load spikes. Fault current or heat would cause diode failure.
A DIM alt/gen light is frequently caused by reversing the leads going into the regulator.....nothing to do with main stud output wiring....
EXCEPT when viewing from the rear of the alt....the MOST CLOCKWISE wire will allways have system voltage on it.....even when key is off, car parked.....
when key is in the run position , AND THE ENGINE IS RUNNING is the ONLY time the second wire will have voltage on it, what happens is the regulator pulls that wire to ground to light the bulb.....
what can happen is if the wires are reversed is when engine is running, the bulb acts to activate the reg as if it was the system wire....fed NOW through the ignition ON position of the sw.....light glows dim....
this is a frequent wiring error when replacing the connector, a famous item, and the color codes and wiring age sure as hell don't make it any easier.....
ask me how I know all this.....
Hmmm...I wonder if this is the cause of my battery light coming on only during idle and the engine is warm. During cruise, the light turns off. It also turns on briefly under heavy acceleration.
when key is in the run position , AND THE ENGINE IS RUNNING is the ONLY time the second wire will have voltage on it, what happens is the regulator pulls that wire to ground to light the bulb.....
Close. The engine does not need to be running. That circuit has voltage the moment you turn the key on.