This is not a smart idea at all. Your water pump will probably go first. Then your hoses will start cracking and leaking. I would suggest using even a small amount of green or yellow in there.

 

Yes water boils at 212 in normal atmospheric pressure conditions, but the boiling point of water in a closed pressurized atmosphere is higher. The cooling system in cars are pressurized when the water heats... the radiator cap controls this... I think our cars have 12lb caps??? In any case, because of this, the boiling point of water raises above 212 because the water can't expand to boil. Make sense??? lol

 

Raising the boiling point is desirable. Having a pressurized system raises the boiling point. The ONLY slight advantage pure water would have is antifreeze does not conduct heat as well as water. (I think distilled is a waste of money).

 

I agree that distilled is okay if you are not using a 1 or 2 year fluid. If you flush every year or so regular house water will be fine.

I actually use 1 part green, 1 part 40 Below, and 3 parts water. Lowered my temps by 30 degrees.

http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...dept%5Fid=1249

 

I purposely did not quote anyone hear because I didn't want anyone to feel this was a reply to any post.

IMO, distilled water is a must with an aluminum radiator. In fact, our new warranty requires the owner to use 50% distilled water and 50% premuim coolant. I don't care what coolant you use, green, organge, or blue. With aluminum radiators the water is more important than the coolant. Most people recognize the minerals in well water, sodium in softened water, but forget that tap water has many minerial too. Calcium and floride have also been added to many public water systems. I have had people ruin a brand new radiator in only six months with calcium heavy city water and 50% coolant. Dexcool got a bad rap with all the early horror stories but I think those bugs were worked out a long time ago. GM and many other stick my the formula and the jello stories are most likely due to operator error. I don't promote Dexcool or condem it. The only advantage I see to Dexcool is the long life protection the product offers. Now here is where 99% of the public do not understand about Dexcool is that once a system has had green in it, you can never get the five year protection from dexcool. You can flush the hell out of it and get every drop out but once it was filled with green, you have a two year system, period. So, if you used green already and the only advantage to Dexcool is the extended life, which you wouldn't get, then it's wasted money. If you installed a new engine, new hoses, surge tank, and a new radiator, then Dexcool might be a good idea, but only then. Distilled water only cost a couple of dollars and if you have an aluminum radiator it is money well spent. All of the pre-mixed coolant sold today are made with distilled water, so you don't even had to go to another store to get it. I would change my coolant every two years even if I had a five year system. It's just cheap insurance. Straight water is not a good idea because coolant isn't just for freeze protection, it has an inhibitor package that protect all your internal components from rust and corosion, and lubricants for seals and bearing. People that swear by the additives are usually seeing the results of high water content systems and it's the water that cooling better, not the $8 bottle of additive. If a secret additive that would lower the coolant temps 30 degrees really existed, prestone would simple put it into their product. Oh, I know some will swear by this stuff and if you believe then I'm ok with that.

 

You forgot half and normally this really isn't that important but with a cooling system being pressurized (and pressure raises boiling point -> pressure cooker)
100 *C/ 212 * F @ 29.29"Hg/1013.2 mBar press (athmospheric)

 

I don't know that DEXCOOL is all that bad. I have been using it in my Vette since I put the new motor/radiator in about 8 years ago. When I have to drain it for maintenance it is still clear like orange KOOLAID. No leaks, no gunk, no sediment. It's also in my '97 Grand Prix GTP which I bought new in '97. No problems there either.

When I built my V8 S15 Jimmy I stayed with the green stuff because that is what had been used before and I didn't change the radiator or heater core.

 

Actually it's because at a higher than athmospheric pressure the vapor prssure has to be higher than the ambient pressure to allow boiling (forming of steam bubbles) Whenever the vapor pressure is below system pressure there's no boiling (at least no macro boiling, nucleotic/microboiling is still possible)

 

They're all smart enough to see the implications of such a scene and not want to do it. Well, maybe not Belinda.

I do have a series of how to videos in the works, but we're waiting until warmer weather.

 

Just how do you intend on enforcing/policing that?

 

How did you reach that conclusion?

 

I'm rather new here to CF, but from what I know and gathered on CF, is that Mr. DeWitt is well respected in his business and has been in the business for a long time... according to what I've read and seen on CF, his products are tested and true, and his products recently received an important endorsement from what I understand from another thread.

My guess is that Mr. DeWitt has the equipment, knowlege, and knowhow to be able to prove whether or not someone was using a 50/50 mix or not, or did something else to void his warrenty and ruin his product.

 

I agree with everything you said. The question is," How would you know if someone used 2 gallons of tap water vs distilled?"

 

I also noted he said he would flush every two years even if it was a five year coolant. That means there is no reason to use Dex at all, since the Prestone Yellow is a two year coolant.

 

I dont know what the correct procedure would be, but I would guess that you could do a few things. I would take a sample of the coolant, and test it for minerals (which are in tap water... distilled water is distilled so it is absolutly pure contaning no minerals), test it's Ph, and test the concentration of water-to-antifreeze. You also can usually tell by looking a a radiator core to see whether or not distilled water was used or not, because the minerals calcify and create deposits (I think this causes pinholes in alum radiators). But you can also tell "some" things by looking at the core.

I'm sure Mr. DeWitt will reply later... so I don't know why I'm answering what I really don't know. I'm just sure their are ways for him to tell.

 

Large trucking, buses and construction fleets take their cooling very seriously. Almost all of these systems have coolant filters that not only filter but add sca's. They also do regular testing because of the amount of expense invloved in failures.

Here are a couple of factual links.

http://www.wixfilters.com/productinf...ntfilters.html

http://www.polarislabs1.com/coolant-analysis.htm

 

Wix is the bomb. They have a top notch product for almost any application.

 

Do they make a Durango Boy filter ?

 

No, but strip clubs work well for distracting me.

 

Because it had about thirty pin holes in it and he bought it six months ago....He used green stuff and tap water but everything inside was red rust. Obviously there wasn't enough inhibitor to protect this system.

oh, and everywhere I saw a white pile of calcium build up, it would poke through with a punch creating another leak.