rrent

bence13_33 - the above info sounds right on -- just a couple (okay 3) of my opinions-

no need to build a street car to the specifications for a all out drag racer - you probably won't be launching like you were coming out of the hole at every (hopefully very few if any) stoplights

I have a great book: "How to Build Chevrolet Street Machines" by Wayne Scraba -- it address many of these questions (even talks about spools on the street) - read it and decide what you think is right for you/your application

Remember the end result - bad boy street cruiser or all out 3500RPM to 7800RPM 1/4 mile runner - will only come together after a good bit of planning and the right parts combinations

good luck

StrayDog

MY 2 cents, would stay with stock / type mounts , they are working fine on my 66 big/block. Give up a stick for auto = reduction in fun facter :crazy: by a high %,,,,Why on earth give up P/S or P/B, as to drive line longevity much higher set ups have survived ..stick with your set/up put in the 454 & fix it as problems develop...........................only the thoughts of an old dog.

69Roadster

You got some great advise if you were going to drag race a lot. For a streeter though it isn't the best in my opinion.

Solid motor mounts. I run them in my black car, the one I drag race all the time. I can't tell a difference over the rubber mounts in my other car as far as ride quality. I can tell a difference at idle though. Where the rubber car is basically still the solid mount car rocks back and forth with the engine. I like it myself. One thing to note make sure you don't use a solid tranny mount and solid engine mounts. You need something to give.

Auto tranny. With a stick, unless you slip the clutch, it is either power on or power off. It can be a real shock to the car launching at high rpms. With an auto the converter buffers the power so there isn't a instant shock to the system. Autos are much better at the drag strip for that reason as well as consistency but that said I'm keeping my 4-speed.

Power stuff. I took of the complete power steering unit, hoses and all, and plugged up the holes in the black car. I have skinnies in the front of my car though so it wasn't needed. I does work fine without it but I wouldn't recommend it for a lot of street driving. With bigger tires in front you would get a work out. I also have manual brakes. It does allow the use of a lumpy cam without worring about vaccuum for the brakes. My other car has power brakes though and there is a great difference in how they stop. For a street car power brakes is the way to go.

Kind of neat having to identical cars with different set ups to compare. Good for giving advise anyway.

bence13_33

Here is what I have decided upon, let me know what you think

A. I have decided to KEEP the power steering & power brakes, so long as the big block will fit in with them.

B. I have decided not to go with a solid lifter cam and am sticking with the Comp Cams XE274 cam kit. (thanks for the advise Ganey & others who participated)

C. I purchased the solid motor mounts off of my buddy last night. I plan on using them...but will use a rubber tranny mount. As someone said, the roughness of the solid motor mounts at idle won't bother me.

D. My buddy is going to let me try out his 275/60s to see if they will fit on the back of my car. If they do, I'll be putting 275/60s out back and 245/60s up front.

E. If I can get a set of 275/60s out back, I'm going to change rear gears. I'll probably be looking at getting a set of 3.55s or 3.70s. With the 28" tall tire my current 3.36s would only be similar to 3.23s. I don't want anything lower geared than 3.70s because I drive my car too much.

F. I am staying with the 4 speed. If the transmission bites the dust, I'll either have it rebuilt or plop the Turbo 400 in.

So what do you guys think about my decisions?

Ganey

A Fits.
B :cool:
C There's a topic "torque strap" that hasn't been done.

D The additional ft. wt. of the BB takes wt. (distribution) off the rear. Taller rear tires would make worse & hurt launch traction. BB & taller tires hurts handling. Also speedo off.
See Tire Test topic.

72 Stingray

Item C sounds scarey...

I've never used solid mounts, but every mag article I've ever read where they tried them on a street car the author later went on to say later that they regreted doing it and would probably change it back (and most of those were just poly mounts). If those guys don't like it, the NVH must be pretty bad. I think I would try a traditional mount first with a torque strap and then break it to prove the need for solids. Anyway, what is the percieved need? You've already said that you won't be doing 4000 rpm launches and/or speed-shifing it, right? Did L-88s or LS-6s need solid mounts?... :confused:

RatRacer

No, they came with rubber mounts. Rubber mounts are fine for all big block applications except for full-on race cars.

BubbaJJ

Just to let you know, I have 295/50s on the rear of mine. HOWEVER, I had to disconnect the emergency brake cables and move them out of the way so they wouldn't rub the tire. This isn't a big deal on an automatic car but might be a problem on a stick.

72 Stingray

My point exactly....

bence13_33

I'll probably use the solid motor mounts, if I find them to be uncomfortable I'll pop in the rubber motor mounts. I'm gonna fit the 275/60s in the back even if I have to cut that damn e-brake bracket and relocate it :smash: I love the look of the fat tires on the back and skinnier tires up front (gives it that hot rod look). Of course my front tires won't exactly be skinnys...they'll be 245/60s.