While I have engine apart....I would like to install a Roller Cam/Lifters set up.....I have no idea what's the best set up....Also if anyone can provide the pros and cons?....recommend set up or Brand Names?....Currently engine is 383 435 HP......also what heads to go with this?.....I have Dart Iron Eagle heads at the present time.....should I switch to the AFR Heads?.....Thanks Cappy

 

Comp Cams is the only brand to buy, you will never be sorry. Ck out their web site.

 

Don't discount Carne Cams as well. I am very happy with their Energizer which basically the same as the Comp Cams High Energy grind.

Both have a fairly large selection of hydraulic roller cams covering a range of RPM's. I would just get a copy of both catalogs and figure out what you want.

The only technical note I will put out is that Crane tends to use a 112 degree lobe separation angle vice 110 for Comp Cams. Generally means the Crane's will idle a liitle smoother and produce more vacuum (Power brakes, headlights, etc.)

 

Ask Norris if he thought that my solid roller setup ran fine. I have Crane cam/lifters and stud girdle. Comp amd Crower steel rockers and .200 over push rods

 

Thanks for replies....since she's apart, I would like to install a good roller cam and lifter set up. Let me know what I can put in this 383 435 Hp that will give me more HP and lower ET's......is there anything I have to do by upgrading to roller cam and lifters.....Cam Bearings? Pushrods? Does this drop right in? Any special things I have to prepare for?......Summit has the Comp Cam and Crane Cam...I'm really not sure what to order....My stall converter is a B&M 3000 Hole Shot.....If somebody could recommend a package.....Cam/lifters/pushrods, etc....I'll purchase everything all at once.....just don't leave anything out.....since Summit is a long way from Hawaii... :D :lol:

 

You will need roller lifters, pushrods, cam, true roller rockers, and springs. I can't give a recomendation but call Crane or Comp Cams and they will help. I have also thought of this and I figured about 1K for the whole setup. Let us know how it turns out.

 

Ok, let's go over the parts you need:

Cam: You want a street roller. This means it has a pressed on cast iron distributor gear. The street rollers will work with your stock distributor gear.

Hyd roller lifters: You want the retrofit version. They are avaialble from any of the major cam players. Just get the ones that cost the least. You can mix brands if you want. The retrofit lifters are easily identified by the crossbar that links a pair of lifters together. That's what you want.

Pushrods: Since the roller lifters are longer, you need shorter pushrods. Comp Cams (and I'm sure others as well) has 'roller retrofit length' pre-made that will work fine. Takes the guess works out of ordering the correct length.

Cam button: Flat tappet cams have lobes ground at a slight angle that makes the lifters constantly push the cam rearward. Rollers don't have this so nothing keeps the cam from walking forward. To fix this you will need a cam button that mounts on the front of the cam. Get the roller version instead of nylon.

Cam lock plate: Not 100% necessary, but a good idea as it is very cheap. Keeps the cam sprocket bolts from loosening.

Roller rockers: Up to you if you want to spend the $$$. Personally I don't think they do much besides looking pretty. On mine, I got comp cams roller tip rockers instead and saved $150. You can even use the stock rockers if you want. They work fine with a roller cam.

Total for my big-block came out at $600 (excluding the rockers). May be slightly less for your sb.

Also, you need to check your valvesprings. Rollers have much more lift and your springs may not be up to it. If you don't know what springs you have, better get a new set. I recommend selecting a cam first, then calling the cam manufacturer (not summit!) and ask what springs they recommend.

As for your cam specs, I think yours is a street car, not race? The 3000rpm holeshot throws me off. That's alot of converter for street.

Anyway, for duration look for the following on the intake (rated at 050 lift):

215 dgr: Mild street. Smooth idle. Good torque. Peak power ~5k
225 dgr: Medium street. Noticeable idle. Good power from 2500-up. Peak ~5.5k.
235 dgr: Marginal street. Lumpy idle, comes alive at 3000-3500. Peak 6k rpm.
245 - up: Wouldn't run it on the street, although some people do.

Your exhaust duration should be 5-10 dgr more than intake. Get as much lift as you can.

As for lobe separation: If you plan to stay carbureted go with 110-112. If you plan to go EFI in the future, go 114.

 

Thanks zwede....
This is the info I was looking for.......Now I can contact the Cam Companies and sort of know what I want them to send me......My car has a Beck 383 Max Velocity Plus Racing Engine,...I bought it about a year+ ago and it's been nothing but problems....so I tore her down and doing a rebuild. Since I'm in there I want to build her right and put all the stuff in there to make her 500+ HP with as much torque I can get from a small block. I'm not too worried about street friendly.....I do want her to break into the 11 sec 1/4 mile bracket all throttle no bottle. The Heads are Dart Iron Eagle II....what AFR Heads should I get? Thanks again for your help.....Aloha Cappy

 

Sounds like you want something in the 234/242 range for duration, upper 500 for lift, 110 or 112 lobe separation.

As for the AFR's, some have built very fast rides with the 190's, some swear by the 210's. Best recommendation I can give is to ask over on the engine mod forum. Several C4 guys have built 383's with AFR heads and made it into the 11's.