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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 02:54 PM
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Default It's tech, I swear.

I am planning to install an engine oil cooler, and I already have the sandwich adapter ready to go. I came across this item, which is a factory '95 Z28 LT1 oil cooler. It acts as a small radiator. Fluid from the coolant system passes through the body of this unit carrying heat away. In it's case the oil does not pass through a separate system it simply passes through the fins of a liquid cooled radiator.

My question is which is more effective, or over effective?

An oil cooler with a thermostat and a fan, or this fluid style oil cooler?
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 03:02 PM
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Default Fluid to Fluid coolers

The most effective coolers are fluid-to-fluid.

Air-to-air coolers depend on sufficient ariflow to provide cooling. The installation of the a-t-a coolers has very many variables that can effect it efficiency.

When it absolutely, positively, must have its temperature controlled, you will see fluid-to-fluid coolers used.

RGDS

Bob
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 03:06 PM
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Bob3700 is correct far as he goes...BUT ultimately it's the RADIATOR water to air....that handles the loading then....

so, in the final **** y sis....it maybe a Dewitts to carry the loading....
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 03:06 PM
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[QUOTE=Durango_boy;1559093441]
My question is which is more effective, or over effective?

An oil cooler with a thermostat and a fan, or this fluid style oil cooler?

Would you save a few pounds by using the fluid cooler?
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by mrvette
so, in the final analysis....it maybe a Dewitts to carry the loading....

Don't worry...his radiator is on my list.


Originally Posted by Sunspot
Would you save a few pounds by using the fluid cooler?

Probably, yes.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 03:49 PM
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I would use a heat sink type oil cooler with the sandwich adaptor and built in thermostat. I was looking at a fan type but realized that the oil will not be all that heat loaded sitting in traffic but would be running down the road (where the air flow is free)
I like seperate systems as oposed to the oil cooler integrated in the radiator type.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 04:01 PM
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DB
We did a study at work on engine oil coolers (EOC) as we provide hoses, or complete assemblies to the big3 plus a couple of transplants. Largest EOC we make goes on the Viper; its a 1/2" ID tube w/ brazed fins and high thermal transfer coating. It drops the temp a whopping 2 degrees when flowing 75 degree air through it.
We tested one similar to what you show and it dropped the temp 4 degrees

Both of these delta t's are at the inlet / outlet of the cooler. NEITHER changed the temp in the oil sump

What did change the sump temp were modifications to the coolant system.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
I am planning to install an engine oil cooler, and I already have the sandwich adapter ready to go. I came across this item, which is a factory '95 Z28 LT1 oil cooler. It acts as a small radiator. Fluid from the coolant system passes through the body of this unit carrying heat away. In it's case the oil does not pass through a separate system it simply passes through the fins of a liquid cooled radiator....
Some TPI C4s use the same system. When they went to synthetic oil in the LT1 C4s the option went away. GM Police cars , trucks, some S10 Blazers, and vans use a cooler that pipes the oil to the radiator to cool it. Ford police cars (80s-90s) have a separate oil to air cooler. Old Ford police cars (70s) have a separate water to oil cooler that is mounted to the fenderwell.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Tommy Samuels
We tested one similar to what you show and it dropped the temp 4 degrees

That doesn't even really seem worth the effort.

What would you say is the best way to drop the oil temp a little more effectively?
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 04:58 PM
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First, Use full roller rockers. Stamped rockers are one of your engines largest sources of oil heat. Second, use synthetic oil, which is much more stable when hot. These two things happened in later C4's (LT-4) and GM found it provided enough reserve to allow it to do away with any sort of oil cooler.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 05:01 PM
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I've already planned for the rollers. My Gen1 400 is now a full roller. I was not planning on using synthetic...as I was steered away from it my several forum buddies.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
I've already planned for the rollers. My Gen1 400 is now a full roller. I was not planning on using synthetic...as I was steered away from it my several forum buddies.
Whats going to happen if you use synthetic ??
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 05:57 PM
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Why do you need an engine oil cooler. I run a very good gage in my oil pan and the temperature usually sits about 20 degrees BELOW the water temp and keeps pace with it. I run about 190 for water temp and the oil is 170.
If I sit and idle it rises but a few miles in the open road and it is back down.
Do you monitor oil temp???
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 06:22 PM
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Weld fins to your oil pan as a large heatsink
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
Do you monitor oil temp???

Not yet but the new motor and new trans will have both an oil temp gauge and a trans oil temp gauge. I thought my engine oil would have been somewhere up by 220.


Originally Posted by noonie
Weld fins to your oil pan as a large heatsink

That's a really good idea.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by noonie
Weld fins to your oil pan as a large heatsink
If they point down, have fun pounding dings out of the pan...

You could do it to the sides, maybe...
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 09:26 PM
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My stock, bought new, 1988 z/28 had a sandwich type oil filter cooler. Unfortunately, I don't remember where the hoses went.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 09:56 PM
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The only reason you would not want to use synthetic oil in your engine is because you have old and/or poor quality seals and gaskets which may leak a bit more (as they are probably already leaking). Synthetic oil compared to organic oil is a bit like sliced bread compared to hardtack! Seriously, the reduced wear and extended part life is incredibly better with synthetic oil. If you don't have a GOOD reason for not using it, you should [for your engine's sake].
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
The only reason you would not want to use synthetic oil in your engine is because you have old and/or poor quality seals and gaskets which may leak a bit more (as they are probably already leaking). Synthetic oil compared to organic oil is a bit like sliced bread compared to hardtack! Seriously, the reduced wear and extended part life is incredibly better with synthetic oil. If you don't have a GOOD reason for not using it, you should [for your engine's sake].

Cool...at least I know someone else on the forum was wrong besides me then. Ha. I was told the gaskets of an older motor would not hold Synthetic, even if they were new gaskets. It didn't make a lot of sense but who am I to argue. no names...but he's one of the aforementioned abandoners.

Knowing now that with a new fresh motor, with all new fresh gaskets...synthetic will help...I will use it. Spot on.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 10:26 PM
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On my 79 I installed a 7 quart oil pan to help cool the bottom end. My next move was to install a temp sender on the pan to see if I needed a cooler. I didn't get to that point but I don't believe I actually needed one.

On my 92 which has a oil temp guage I decided I needed an oil cooler. I installed a remote oil filter using steel braided lines and plumbed in a
B & M stacked oil cooler and mounted it behind the electric fans, using air flow after it had come thru the radiator to help cool the oil and it lowered the oil temp 20 degrees. I'm quite happy with what I have right now.

I would suggest getting a larger capacity oil pan, installing an oil temp sender and guage, monitor where you are and determine if you need to do more. I would bet not!
Bernie
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