Power window motors. Please help.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,417
Likes: 336
From: Texas
this is not your year but similar , also states power windows require a large current for operation http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/tune.../index22.shtml
Last edited by speedreed8; Feb 24, 2007 at 09:42 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
What is the problem? Up, down or both? If you have power and nothing works up or down its probably the connector. The old connedors don't seat well with the new motors. If your problem is up only...hows the regualtor spring? The spring assists in raising the window? Are they there? Most that break off end up at the bottom of the door.
Jim
Jim
Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
From: Ozark MO
On the '76 diagram it shows pnk/blk from ign switch to the relay and blk/orn to the relay from the breaker. A red/wht from the relay to each switch. From each switch to the motors, brn and dk blu to the left and blu/wht and brn/wht to the right. As stated, very few parts to the system. And I should have been more clear in my statement, "if it's a part", then I would say the relay. Could very well be a connection. My car is a '76 and I dealt with this. So, it's not that I'm an electric guru at all, just been there, done that. I found my problem to be that the p.o had bypassed the relay and took power from the cig lighter. I replaced the relay and the breaker and all is well.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 109
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From: Erin NY
this is not your year but similar , also states power windows require a large current for operation http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/tune.../index22.shtml
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Erin NY
On the '76 diagram it shows pnk/blk from ign switch to the relay and blk/orn to the relay from the breaker. A red/wht from the relay to each switch. From each switch to the motors, brn and dk blu to the left and blu/wht and brn/wht to the right. As stated, very few parts to the system. And I should have been more clear in my statement, "if it's a part", then I would say the relay. Could very well be a connection. My car is a '76 and I dealt with this. So, it's not that I'm an electric guru at all, just been there, done that. I found my problem to be that the p.o had bypassed the relay and took power from the cig lighter. I replaced the relay and the breaker and all is well.
Good luck.
Good luck.
on '76?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Erin NY
What is the problem? Up, down or both? If you have power and nothing works up or down its probably the connector. The old connedors don't seat well with the new motors. If your problem is up only...hows the regualtor spring? The spring assists in raising the window? Are they there? Most that break off end up at the bottom of the door.
Jim
Jim
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Erin NY
...until you go all the way back to the horn relay which is the main junction where the power window circuit gets its power.
Just checked and horn does not work. I should look into this as though they may be related?
Just checked and horn does not work. I should look into this as though they may be related?
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Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Marshall Texas
I hope this helps....I'm in the same boat and fixed it...
I know you put new motors in...and your vette is probably in tons better shape than my rebuild I'm attempting. I put new window motors in and nothing. Tried everything you did until I was about to pull my hair out............(are most of the members bald by now....or does it get better?) Anyhow...my dad came over to shoot the bull and have a beer and he asked me, "Are the motors good?" I sarcastically replied and he wanted to put this youngin' in his place. Well......he did! We found out that the window guides and working parts inside were froze up a little. He took some WD40, then applied a direct current from one of the "hot" wires from one of the wiring harnesses and with a large screw driver give it a little give at the same time applying power. Anyhow......keep'em greased!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Erin NY
I know you put new motors in...and your vette is probably in tons better shape than my rebuild I'm attempting. I put new window motors in and nothing. Tried everything you did until I was about to pull my hair out............(are most of the members bald by now....or does it get better?) Anyhow...my dad came over to shoot the bull and have a beer and he asked me, "Are the motors good?" I sarcastically replied and he wanted to put this youngin' in his place. Well......he did! We found out that the window guides and working parts inside were froze up a little. He took some WD40, then applied a direct current from one of the "hot" wires from one of the wiring harnesses and with a large screw driver give it a little give at the same time applying power. Anyhow......keep'em greased!
P.S.: You may want to fill out your profile. Some members will give you a hard time if you don't. In my case, I didn't even know there was such a thing. There was no "orientation guide" to tell me to. At the time I didn't even know there was such a thing.
Good luck with the rebuild. Stick with it.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
From: Ozark MO
http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/prod...7669FD6AC1B82A
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000050G
The breaker plugs into the fuse panel.
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000050G
The breaker plugs into the fuse panel.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 109
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From: Erin NY
http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/prod...7669FD6AC1B82A
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000050G
The breaker plugs into the fuse panel.
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000050G
The breaker plugs into the fuse panel.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 699
Likes: 0
From: Vettemod.com For the C3 People
St. Jude Donor '06
Been there, done that.
1.) Sounds like your vette has seen a little moisture like mine. You MUST clean ALL contacts! All points of metal to metal. Where the plugs slide onto the window switch itself, any plugs in between, relay, all the way to motors. These motors shut down at high current, i.e. when the window reaches its limit. With any resistence the amps are going sky high before you even start to move. I found corrosion on evey connector on my car. Get a good contact cleaner and fine sand paper. Wrap sand paper around a screwdriver and work in and out of plugs too. I later found I had to swap one of my window switches, just could not get clean. If you do swap out switches, go ahead and get new plugs for switch too, trust me, been there too.
2.) Lube every moving part in window regulator. Start with wd40, finish with spay type lithium grease.
My windows now dang near fly out the top of the door when I hit the up button.
Hope this helps, I know I am kinda repeating alot of what has been stated, but have personally experienced the same issue.
tt
1.) Sounds like your vette has seen a little moisture like mine. You MUST clean ALL contacts! All points of metal to metal. Where the plugs slide onto the window switch itself, any plugs in between, relay, all the way to motors. These motors shut down at high current, i.e. when the window reaches its limit. With any resistence the amps are going sky high before you even start to move. I found corrosion on evey connector on my car. Get a good contact cleaner and fine sand paper. Wrap sand paper around a screwdriver and work in and out of plugs too. I later found I had to swap one of my window switches, just could not get clean. If you do swap out switches, go ahead and get new plugs for switch too, trust me, been there too.
2.) Lube every moving part in window regulator. Start with wd40, finish with spay type lithium grease.
My windows now dang near fly out the top of the door when I hit the up button.
Hope this helps, I know I am kinda repeating alot of what has been stated, but have personally experienced the same issue.
tt
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Erin NY
Been there, done that.
1.) Sounds like your vette has seen a little moisture like mine. You MUST clean ALL contacts! All points of metal to metal. Where the plugs slide onto the window switch itself, any plugs in between, relay, all the way to motors. These motors shut down at high current, i.e. when the window reaches its limit. With any resistence the amps are going sky high before you even start to move. I found corrosion on evey connector on my car. Get a good contact cleaner and fine sand paper. Wrap sand paper around a screwdriver and work in and out of plugs too. I later found I had to swap one of my window switches, just could not get clean. If you do swap out switches, go ahead and get new plugs for switch too, trust me, been there too.
2.) Lube every moving part in window regulator. Start with wd40, finish with spay type lithium grease.
My windows now dang near fly out the top of the door when I hit the up button.
Hope this helps, I know I am kinda repeating alot of what has been stated, but have personally experienced the same issue.
tt
1.) Sounds like your vette has seen a little moisture like mine. You MUST clean ALL contacts! All points of metal to metal. Where the plugs slide onto the window switch itself, any plugs in between, relay, all the way to motors. These motors shut down at high current, i.e. when the window reaches its limit. With any resistence the amps are going sky high before you even start to move. I found corrosion on evey connector on my car. Get a good contact cleaner and fine sand paper. Wrap sand paper around a screwdriver and work in and out of plugs too. I later found I had to swap one of my window switches, just could not get clean. If you do swap out switches, go ahead and get new plugs for switch too, trust me, been there too.
2.) Lube every moving part in window regulator. Start with wd40, finish with spay type lithium grease.
My windows now dang near fly out the top of the door when I hit the up button.
Hope this helps, I know I am kinda repeating alot of what has been stated, but have personally experienced the same issue.
tt
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Erin NY
No Problem. I am new too. Some members call newcomers "Noobs" and scold us new guys for lapses in protocol, etc. (Not filling out the profile is a common one). Thing is, there is no guide to these things that I have seen on the forum. So how would new guys know? If these things are important, (and they seem to be to some) they should give "noobs" a brief "orientation" of some kind when they join. Reguardless, I kind of look at it as a type of "hazing" similar to a fraternity. And this is one "fraternity" well worth joining.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Erin NY
Progress Update
Tore it all apart. In the end I cut out the switches. Hot wire to switches (from relay) jumpered to window motor wires at switch (up and down) operated motors O.K. Seems like both switches bad at same time. Will replace and update.
Thanks all.
Thanks all.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
Fix your switches. I bought several new ones and none worked right.Carefully pry the metal tabs that hold the plastic in place. All there is is two contacts in there. Bend them back into the right position (usually the problem). clean them up and re assemble. Use a vise,screw driver and small hammer...bend the tabs in again to hold them together.
Jim
Jim
Jim
Jim
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Erin NY
Fix your switches. I bought several new ones and none worked right.Carefully pry the metal tabs that hold the plastic in place. All there is is two contacts in there. Bend them back into the right position (usually the problem). clean them up and re assemble. Use a vise,screw driver and small hammer...bend the tabs in again to hold them together.
Jim
Jim
Jim
Jim
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
Just be carful with the prying. You don't want to break the tabs. I put mine in a vice...piece of wood on each side so the vise didn't scratch the crome off. I tapped a bit and used a pair of plyers to move the tab. You only need to move one tab and maybe loosen off the other. It should come apart fairly easy.
If I recall there are two metal tabs with a round contact on each in there. Moving the switch compresses the tab resulting in a connection with the round contact and the pin that the electical plug attaches to. My tabs had straightened from years of use and were not making 100% contact. I rebent those tabs. I put everything back together good and tight. Make sure the plastic backing is held in place by the tabs tight...so it doesn't slide back and forth. They work better then new. The ones today seem to be made very cheaply. I tried 4 and gave up on the new.
Once you have them out you can actually see the tabs move as you compress the switch...look though the small openings. I was able to see that the round contact was missing its strike point.
You may also feel a noticeable resistance or a click as you move the switch lever from one position to another. There should be NO resistance and no CLICK. Just a smooth back and forth motion.
Good luck. Let us know how you make out.
Jim
If I recall there are two metal tabs with a round contact on each in there. Moving the switch compresses the tab resulting in a connection with the round contact and the pin that the electical plug attaches to. My tabs had straightened from years of use and were not making 100% contact. I rebent those tabs. I put everything back together good and tight. Make sure the plastic backing is held in place by the tabs tight...so it doesn't slide back and forth. They work better then new. The ones today seem to be made very cheaply. I tried 4 and gave up on the new.
Once you have them out you can actually see the tabs move as you compress the switch...look though the small openings. I was able to see that the round contact was missing its strike point.
You may also feel a noticeable resistance or a click as you move the switch lever from one position to another. There should be NO resistance and no CLICK. Just a smooth back and forth motion.
Good luck. Let us know how you make out.
Jim
