clutch adjustment
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 725
Likes: 1
From: FL.
I have A 69 SB. When I got it it had the Original Bell Housing clutch fork and Ball stud . When I Installed a Richmond 6sp. , I changed to a centerforce steel flywheel, CF2 Pressure plate , disk and TO Bearing. Ive always used the Same original GM Bell housing , GM Clutch fork GM Ball stud for a 69 W/muncie and it sets up correctly, with plenty of Rod adjustment. I wonder if your Clutch fork has Changed with your Upgrade? I Know for certain If you changed to The Lakewood or any aftermarket Clutch fork The Geometry changed too. The original Clutch Fork Has a slot and pin type link to the Adjust rod. The aftermarket is different, and has a dimple type link where it levers. If you look down there where the Cluch fork sticks out of the bell housing you can easily see if you have original or upgraded fork. Hope this Helps..
69vettester
69vettester
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 43
From: Eastern US XX
I have A 69 SB. When I got it it had the Original Bell Housing clutch fork and Ball stud . When I Installed a Richmond 6sp. , I changed to a centerforce steel flywheel, CF2 Pressure plate , disk and TO Bearing. Ive always used the Same original GM Bell housing , GM Clutch fork GM Ball stud for a 69 W/muncie and it sets up correctly, with plenty of Rod adjustment. I wonder if your Clutch fork has Changed with your Upgrade? I Know for certain If you changed to The Lakewood or any aftermarket Clutch fork The Geometry changed too. The original Clutch Fork Has a slot and pin type link to the Adjust rod. The aftermarket is different, and has a dimple type link where it levers. If you look down there where the Cluch fork sticks out of the bell housing you can easily see if you have original or upgraded fork. Hope this Helps..
69vettester
69vettester
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 725
Likes: 1
From: FL.
Yep, Mine sets up correct with the stock Ball stud. But I Have the Centerforce "2" Components ..Not ..The Dual Friction , That May be the difference, I dont Know. I do Know I "had" to stay with the Stock Clutch fork Or It wouldnt work without more Changes..Bell housing..other Linkeage ..ect. How I know is.. I tried to adapt to the aftermarket clutch fork and adjustable Ball stud..But wasnt worth the Unknown Geometry headache to me so I sent it all back to Summit and got Original from Zips. The big performance aftermarket Vendors dont have the stock C3 Vette Clutch Forks.
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 4
From: Somers CT
I just saw you said stock parts, do you mean GM parts?
Pro
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 692
Likes: 1
From: Peabody Ma.
All the parts are stock ie: fork, bellhousing, linkage. the clutch, PP, throw out bearing, and piolt bearing I got form the local clutch shop. This actually the second clutch set up first one came from Zip. The first clutch was chattering off engagement, local clutch shop said he recongized the PP as being too heavy (the spring) and sometimes do that. I got a PP from him and the chatter went away. I put it all back together and Im out of adjustment.
Now im not sure I adjusted it right at all?? It works but Im right at the end of adj
Now im not sure I adjusted it right at all?? It works but Im right at the end of adj
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 44
From: Macon, GA
Alright guys. Here is where I'm at as of today. Should I go ahead and install the longer ball stud? I DO have the DF Centerforce with their flywheel and pressure plate. What would be worse: Having the one that's too short or having the one that's too long? I do not want to take the tranny back out.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 725
Likes: 1
From: FL.
alright Sperkins, Looking good...
Install the one you have, it will position the throwout bearing near the PP release "tangs". Wiggle the clutch fork, there should be a little play between the bearing surface and the Tangs. Hook up your clutch linkeage and see if the adjust rod will make the bearing contact the pp tangs while being somewhere in the middle of the threads. Not extremely at the end of the threads or the beginning of the threads.You can estimate your adjustment pretty close without installing the trans. Hope this makes sense..
69vettester
Install the one you have, it will position the throwout bearing near the PP release "tangs". Wiggle the clutch fork, there should be a little play between the bearing surface and the Tangs. Hook up your clutch linkeage and see if the adjust rod will make the bearing contact the pp tangs while being somewhere in the middle of the threads. Not extremely at the end of the threads or the beginning of the threads.You can estimate your adjustment pretty close without installing the trans. Hope this makes sense..
69vettester
Last edited by 69vettester; Mar 5, 2007 at 07:06 PM.
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Pro
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 692
Likes: 1
From: Peabody Ma.
Any way to check, all parts were identical, Im thinking back too the first clutch I think the first one was also at the end of adjustment. I do know that when I took it apart adjustment was right in the middle
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 4
From: Somers CT
Other than sitting them side by side, I don't know how you'd know what the right height is, maybe someone will chime in who does. Why don't you just lengthen your clutch rod if everything else is working properly? Other than that you might have to look at changing the pivot ball.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 665
Likes: 0
From: wilmington nc
Alright guys. Here is where I'm at as of today. Should I go ahead and install the longer ball stud? I DO have the DF Centerforce with their flywheel and pressure plate. What would be worse: Having the one that's too short or having the one that's too long? I do not want to take the tranny back out.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 665
Likes: 0
From: wilmington nc
Well the long pivot ball came defentlly not what i needed!!!
With the long ball measured 4.411
With the short ball measured 4.841
come to find out after measuring my old ball it"s worn down .110
Sperkins i would say with all new parts you should be good to go i spoke with the guy from centerforce and he said as long as the pivot arm is centered in the window on bellhousing when t/o bearing is riding on p/p tangs that is what they look for. It"s just hard to belive being off at the ball 100 thousands shows up as 3-4 inches of lose play in the pedal guess that"s why they call it geometry. I"d still like to order a adjustable one that fits a stock bellhousing just in case the new short ball doesent work tommorow, summit says the adjustable lakewood ball is for use with a lakewood bellhousing only!!!!!!!!! anyone know of a adjustable ball that fits a stock bellhousing?
With the long ball measured 4.411
With the short ball measured 4.841
come to find out after measuring my old ball it"s worn down .110
Sperkins i would say with all new parts you should be good to go i spoke with the guy from centerforce and he said as long as the pivot arm is centered in the window on bellhousing when t/o bearing is riding on p/p tangs that is what they look for. It"s just hard to belive being off at the ball 100 thousands shows up as 3-4 inches of lose play in the pedal guess that"s why they call it geometry. I"d still like to order a adjustable one that fits a stock bellhousing just in case the new short ball doesent work tommorow, summit says the adjustable lakewood ball is for use with a lakewood bellhousing only!!!!!!!!! anyone know of a adjustable ball that fits a stock bellhousing?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 44
From: Macon, GA
Man what a mess! Year one sells 2 different sizes. One is 1 1/2" and one is 1 3/4". What's funny is that they are listed for the same application. 
What gives!?
Originally Posted by yearone
#556N - Clutch fork ball stud (1-3/4" long) for all 1964-1972 V8 models. $14.00
#904N - Clutch fork ball stud (1-1/2" long) for all 1964-1972 V8 models. $15.50
#904N - Clutch fork ball stud (1-1/2" long) for all 1964-1972 V8 models. $15.50
What gives!?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 44
From: Macon, GA
I just talked to Brian in the tech dept at Centerforce. Man that guy is always a pleasure to talk to. He was able to tell me my new flywheel measures at .950". He said I should be well withing tolerances, but I'll pull the bellhousing tonight and double check everything. I'm so glad I stumbled up on this thread before I stabbed the tranny back in. 
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 665
Likes: 0
From: wilmington nc
Hay sperkins , you left out one, along with the 1- 3/4 and the 1 -1/2 is also a 1 -1/4 ball thats what was in my 74 i put the 1 1/2 in and wa la measured 4 3/4 . finally i can put it back in !!!!!!!!! ps the arm comes out the center of the window just like Brian said
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 6,855
Likes: 2
From: Grovetown GA
Here I was thinking I was the only one.
Just put the 454/440HP crate engine in a factory BB 73. Had to get the Scoggins Dickey bracket for the Z bar since the new BBs do not have the stud thread or even the casting! A Centerforce came out and I had a CF to go back in so I did not mess with the ball stud. The bellhousing and clutch fork are stock.
Everything went together OK. But getting ready to fire up the engine the clutch does not engage - I have 3/4 inch of adjustment on the rod still - not sure if that will give me what I need.
I sure as heck do not want to pull it back apart! I did note Bubba's Mr Gasket PN!
Anyone else dealt with this block in 4 spd C3? Is the bracket possibly the culprit?
Just put the 454/440HP crate engine in a factory BB 73. Had to get the Scoggins Dickey bracket for the Z bar since the new BBs do not have the stud thread or even the casting! A Centerforce came out and I had a CF to go back in so I did not mess with the ball stud. The bellhousing and clutch fork are stock.
Everything went together OK. But getting ready to fire up the engine the clutch does not engage - I have 3/4 inch of adjustment on the rod still - not sure if that will give me what I need.
I sure as heck do not want to pull it back apart! I did note Bubba's Mr Gasket PN!
Anyone else dealt with this block in 4 spd C3? Is the bracket possibly the culprit?