I just installed a new clutch, pp, and flywheel. I"m as far as i can adjust on the threaded adjustment rod still have half the pedal freeplay before i can feel the clutch. Do i need a longer lower linkage rod? centerforce dual friction

 

I did a search and looks like i need a long pivot ball, man wish i haden"t missed that post a couple weeks ago! ok i"m over it now back out comes the new motor.

 

Can't you slide the tranny back enought to replace the ball through the fork opening?

 

I had the same thing happen on my 81 4 spd. Engine out, fly wheel cut, new clutch and pressure plate installed. Put it all back together and you run out of adjustment at the rod! CAN ANYONE EXPLAIN WHY OR HOW I even went as far as taking it all apart again to see if I install a wrong throw out bearing NOTHING???

 

I understand that sometimes you need to replace the clutch fork in order to get the proper range of motion. I just installed my engine with new clutch and I wish I replaced the fork. We shall see what happens.

 

Take a look at this thread explanes it much better than i can . do a basic search for (clutch adjustment) in c3 tech@performance and you"ll see several post on this topic.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...tch+adjustment

 

Now im confused I dont remember seeing any thing that looked like that when I took it apart? did I loose it? maybe it was not there? Im going to look at a Zip mag and see if that jogs my memory. Is that for a stock set up?

 

On the outside of bellhousing drivers side half covered by the transmission is a allen plug thats it! on the inside of the bellhousing it"s the ball that the pivot arm rides on.

 

Alright, I think the ball shown is in the bellhousing
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show... h+adjustment
Am I correct? If so I think I under stand how it could affect clutch adjustment. But how do adjust it? looks the transmission would need to out? Now for the stupid question if it was never touched would it need to be adjusted? In my case maybe yes as im out of adjustment

Any step by step on how to properly adjust a clutch

 

I don"t think the factory ones are adjustable (you can buy a adjustable ones though). I think factory just comes long or short, the differance must be in the thickness of either flywheel or pressure plate or both. I think you may be able to just slide the trans back a little and get it out you"ll need to go through the opeaning for the pivot arm to unhook it from the ball. Just pull out on pivot arm it should relese off the clip but you"ll probly need to look in that hole to make sure the release bearing is on to reinstall it

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...tch+adjustment
here"s how bubba fixed his but he supplied a part number so i guess he officially unbubbafied it

 

Im starting to understand BUT if the ball is adjustable, and assumeing the tranny had to out to get at it, how would you know where to adjust it too?
By moving the fork closer you would increase the travel of the z bar

I still dont see how cutting the flywheel would cause you too run out of adjustment?

Im still searching archives for a step by step on proper clutch adjustment any help?

 

My guess would be if you used a longer pivot ball you would be moving the fork fordward that in return would push one end of the z bar fordward, now watch what the other end of the z bar does travels toward the rear of the car up the threaded rod, wa la you have adjustment again. Now here"s another guess if you measured from the tip of the pivot ball to the flywheel thats the only place i know of to get a measurement. now when you had your flywheel turned that measurement changed, with a adjustable pivot ball your goina need to know what that measuremeent needs to be set at. Or you could get the gm part number 3790556 thats the long one.

 

OK. Now you guy have me worried. I am converting my auto BACK to OE 4-speed. I just bought a new Centerforce flywheel, Pressure plate, flywheel, throw out bearing and clutch fork. I did replace my pivot bolt with a new OEM type from year one. Tonight I got as far as mounting the Bellhousing to the engine. Can I expect to have problems? Now would be the perfect time for me to swap it out since it is in plain sight. Let me know please asap.
Thanks,
Perk

 

if using an aftermarket bellhousing or flywheel, it may be necessary to use a longer or adjustable type pivot ball to maintain proper linkage geometry and assure optimum throw out bearing arm travel for proper clutch release. The pivot ball height will need to be measured. When measured with a stock flywheel thickness of .960 the pivot ball distance should measure 4.750".
note: be sure to measure from the engine block saver plate to the flat on top of the pivot ball.
how to measure flywheel thickness: to determin wheather the flywheel is at stock thickness or is manufactured/surfaced below specification the flywheel will need to be measured. To performe this, measure from the clutch disc contact surface to the crank flange mating surface (through the center of flywheel works best) the stock dimension is approoximately .960 if the diminsion is less than .960 subtract the differance from the 4.750. This will be the correct geometry for use with centerforce throwout bearing p/n n1716
example: if the crank flange to friction surface dimension of the flywheel measures .900 then the dimension of 4.750 should be changed to 4.690
note: be sure to measure from crankshaft flange mounting surface to the friction surface of the flywheel!

 

I just went through all this BS with my new certerforce dual friction setup on my 69 BB. I bought the whole thing as a package from Summit. I don't even know why they ask us what car we have.They have to know by now every old C3 needs to have the clutch fork pivot ball replaced with a longer one. Tell me up front I need the part I'll gladly buy it instead of putting everthing together and finding out after the fact. I took the trans out instead of the whole engine, just thought it was easier.

 

I could not agree more , why in the world would they sell me flywheel, clutch, presssure plate, release bearing, and line up tool and never mention the pivot ball? They must think i lost there phone number

 

I converted my clutch from the OEM to a Centerforce and did not have to change the pivot ball or lengthen the clutch rod. I bought an adjustable one but never used it. There may be a difference in Centerforce designs from one style to the other that might require a different pivot ball, dunno. Mine is a Centerforce II and not Dual Friction so maybe. Centerforce told me they like to see the fork exit the bellhousing approximately centered in the opening with the pedal adjusted properly.

 

Hay topgunn I'm just curious did you change your flywheel also? mine"s out , new one will be here tommorow at 10am , i see no way to remove this pivot ball without pulling the transmission you can not unhook the pivot arm with the transmission input shaft inside the bellhouseing plus you have to remove the clutch and pressure plate to get a measurment!

 

Yes I did change the flywheel, I don't recall the p/n but it was a GM. I was having a vibration issue once and was going to change that pivot ball that's why I bought the adjustable one.
I've never done it but I think you could pull the fork off the T/O bearing and pivot ball, then slide the transmission back just far enough to unscrew the pivot ball. It would be a real chore to get the thing back together though and if you had it that far apart, might as well just drop the transmission.