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Just an FYI. I also had a similar issue with not being able to get the clutch adjusted. Ends up that a heavy duty fork is NOT the same as a Corvette fork. You must use a Corvette fork and not an aftermarket Chevy one for Camaro, Chevelle, Etc.
Varkwso
I would not think the bracket would throw it off that much. This will also give you more adjustment and it cleans up some of the slop.
I did not think so either. The bellhousing and clutch fork are stock. It has a new flywheel - I did notice the old Centerforce clutch was a different color than the new one...
Just put the 454/440HP crate engine in a factory BB 73. Had to get the Scoggins Dickey bracket for the Z bar since the new BBs do not have the stud thread or even the casting! A Centerforce came out and I had a CF to go back in so I did not mess with the ball stud. The bellhousing and clutch fork are stock.
Everything went together OK. But getting ready to fire up the engine the clutch does not engage - I have 3/4 inch of adjustment on the rod still - not sure if that will give me what I need.
I sure as heck do not want to pull it back apart! I did note Bubba's Mr Gasket PN!
Anyone else dealt with this block in 4 spd C3? Is the bracket possibly the culprit?
I am about to do the exact same engine in my 73. I will be using the Keisler TKO 600 for the trans. I'm not too sure what the Z bar is that you are talking about. I'm sure that it will affect my installation also. Could you enlighten me a bit?
I am about to do the exact same engine in my 73. I will be using the Keisler TKO 600 for the trans. I'm not too sure what the Z bar is that you are talking about. I'm sure that it will affect my installation also. Could you enlighten me a bit?
I think the TKO 600 uses a hydraulic clutch so you will not have to worry about the manual clutch linkage and the Zbar ball stud on the block.
You are going to need a new hood for sure if using the 440/454 intake. Also a few fittings will not transfer to the new engine (vacuum tap on the intake for example.
Hedman headers have to be dimpled to clear the steering box and the flanges have to be ground to clear the head bolts.
I was able to adjust the clutch with the stock linkage - thank heavens.
Now the darn thing won't fire - not sure if it is the distributor or the coil or wiring harness....
I think the TKO 600 uses a hydraulic clutch so you will not have to worry about the manual clutch linkage and the Zbar ball stud on the block.
You are going to need a new hood for sure if using the 440/454 intake. Also a few fittings will not transfer to the new engine (vacuum tap on the intake for example.
Hedman headers have to be dimpled to clear the steering box and the flanges have to be ground to clear the head bolts.
I was able to adjust the clutch with the stock linkage - thank heavens.
Now the darn thing won't fire - not sure if it is the distributor or the coil or wiring harness....
Thanks for the reply. You can use the original clutch linkage with the TKO 600. The hydraulic is an option with them. The present hood is an original GM part number that I had to get back when I was running the 454 LS-7. I was running an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake on the present engine. I am going to change both the cam, and the intake that comes with the ZZ454. I may try an old Tarantula intake that I have with a modified Holley 850 double pumper. The Hooker headers with the side exhaust should work as well. Do you have a manufacturer and part number for that Z-Bar bracket that I will need for this new block? Thanks again for the info! Just when I thought that I knew everything I needed for this project!
Thanks for the reply. You can use the original clutch linkage with the TKO 600. The hydraulic is an option with them. The present hood is an original GM part number that I had to get back when I was running the 454 LS-7. I was running an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake on the present engine. I am going to change both the cam, and the intake that comes with the ZZ454. I may try an old Tarantula intake that I have with a modified Holley 850 double pumper. The Hooker headers with the side exhaust should work as well. Do you have a manufacturer and part number for that Z-Bar bracket that I will need for this new block? Thanks again for the info! Just when I thought that I knew everything I needed for this project!
It does not look exactly like the photo (has two holes - use the lower one). It blocks the oil pressure sending unit stock location by the oil filter also....
I recommend you fit the headers completely on the engine while it is on a stand to check head bolt clearances and access to plugs!
Thanks for the info on the bracket. I won't be starting the project for about three weeks, and am trying to get all the info together before I start. By the way, the tech notes for the ZZ454, 440 HP crate engine show that the block is machined for a clutch ball stud.
Looks like you already have everything apart, so you should fix it right. If it was still all together, you can buy or make a longer adjusting rod. Posted here about a month ago. I think it was mr. gasket, has a longer, adjustable rod that would take up the slack on your pedal. I was lucky on mine. With the stock rod adjusted all the way out, it works fine. Like you, I learned about the longer pivot ball after I put the engine/trans back in. Good luck