no horn
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 575
Likes: 0
From: Ventura California
no horn
Today installed new horns. They worked.....twice. I took the steering wheel off to paint the column, and found no power to the contacts below the large spring under the hub. ZAt first, when I tapped the spring loaded little button to a ground, it would lightly sprark, then nothing. Is there a fuse in the horn system? I found the plastic retainer all broken, but when I tested the contacts...nothing? Any suggestions.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
Horn is operated from a relay, black wire in the horn button furnishes a ground for the relay coil to pick it up. Horn circuit it powered from the CTSY fuse. If the interior lights work, the fuse is good. Check for power at the horn relay, see if the horn relay picks up when you either ground the horn button wire or hit the horn button.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
The "fusible links" in a Corvette [GM, et al] are sections of wire which are two AWG sizes smaller than the main line. They were designed to melt when excessive current was placed on that section of wiring. If you have no power to the horn, it's either the horn relay or the fusible link in the system. The only ways to tell if the "link" is bad are: burnt/darkened wire insulation; or no electrical continuity on that wire section.
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Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
The horn switch actually just connects the ground into the circuit. That ground powers the horn relay, which powers the horn. So, what you are looking for is continuity between the horn switch and ground. If you hook an ohmeter to ground and then to the each of the switch contact points, only one side should show continuity...until you "make" the circuit by pressing horn ring. Then both sides should be "live". Sounds like your problem is right there among the horn contact ring stuff.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 575
Likes: 0
From: Ventura California
I got a chance to take a look at the horn contacts below the hub and locking plate. 70 t/t. I removed the horn contact ring below the locking plate and I do have power at the button in the signal switch. My question is if the button should be spring loaded (spring underneath the button), or does it just sit flat. I can pull it up, but loose power at it. Seems to me there shoould be a small spring similar to the one in the upper portion.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 575
Likes: 0
From: Ventura California
Since I can get impatient and wanted to drive her today, I attacked the problem logically. Neccessity is the mother of invention, so.....I wiggled the little button out of the cylinder, and low and behold, there was a spring and it was broken. Had another horn spring kit from another car, stuffed it in, wiggled the button back in.....IT WORKS!!!!!!!!
I'm going for a ride. BEEP_BEEP.
I'm going for a ride. BEEP_BEEP.
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: Houston TX
Horn again
The "fusible links" in a Corvette [GM, et al] are sections of wire which are two AWG sizes smaller than the main line. They were designed to melt when excessive current was placed on that section of wiring. If you have no power to the horn, it's either the horn relay or the fusible link in the system. The only ways to tell if the "link" is bad are: burnt/darkened wire insulation; or no electrical continuity on that wire section.
I found a black and orange and a white 22awg in front of the fuse box just cut of hangin loose the orange and white has a slight burn on it they have 12v present on them with no ignition on they come out of the big original cable bundle hanging in front of the fusebox if thats make any sence dont know if these have anything to do with it or not
