What degree stat are you BB guys running?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,286
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From: Lake Wylie, South Carolina
What degree stat are you BB guys running?
I have a Dewitt BB aluminum radiator with dual spals running a 50\50 antifreeze\H2O mix with some water wetter additive. My 454 is +.030 and pretty well modified. I currently have a 180 degree stat in it but the motor temp stays a pretty consistent 210. This is not in traffic so I am concearned that it will go even higher in the summer months when I am cruising and in some traffic. Should I switch to a 160 or remove it all together? As for heat and defrost I don't have either anymore and probably wont for a few years until I install an after market setup of heat and AC.
Thanks
Wade
Thanks
Wade
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Plano TX
180F is good. Cooler than that and condensation will not evaporate out of the motor.
If it's consistently 210F I would question the gauge. Wouldn't be the first one that's 30F off!
Use a IR heat gauge and point it at the thermostat housing to see what the actual temp is.
If it's consistently 210F I would question the gauge. Wouldn't be the first one that's 30F off!
Use a IR heat gauge and point it at the thermostat housing to see what the actual temp is.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,472
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From: Lake Ozark, MO
I have about the same setup you do and I run a little cooler. I have a 160, but don't think that is the issue. Have seen some debate on not running a thermostate..and some of the heavy players on this forum don't use them with no adverse affect. Can't hurt to try it. Could reduce your antifreeze mixture to more water for a few more degrees cooling - just remember to add for winter if a chance for freezing.
Race Director
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From: WI
Race Director
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a thermostat determines the minimum hot operating temp. If the car is running hot your coolant system is not up to par or the airflow through the rad is not optimal (leaks, restrictions....)
A cooler stat will not make a car run cooler, it'll just take longer to heat up (and that's a great way to mask a problem when selling it and going for a short "test" drive)
You will only reach that 160F operating temp if your coolant system is capable of cooling it.
A cooler stat will not make a car run cooler, it'll just take longer to heat up (and that's a great way to mask a problem when selling it and going for a short "test" drive)
You will only reach that 160F operating temp if your coolant system is capable of cooling it.
Senior Member since 1492
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From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
I'm running twin Spal's on a Dewitt's aluminum rad with a 190-195 stat I forget which. Occassionally in heavy traffic and high ambient temp the temp gauge will reach 200, but normally never higher than 190.
I did drill two 1/8" holes in the stat just incase it gets locked in the closed position. Yeah, I know they're not supposed to lock in the closed position but over the years I've had two that did.
I did drill two 1/8" holes in the stat just incase it gets locked in the closed position. Yeah, I know they're not supposed to lock in the closed position but over the years I've had two that did.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
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a thermostat determines the minimum hot operating temp. If the car is running hot your coolant system is not up to par or the airflow through the rad is not optimal (leaks, restrictions....)
A cooler stat will not make a car run cooler, it'll just take longer to heat up (and that's a great way to mask a problem when selling it and going for a short "test" drive)
You will only reach that 160F operating temp if your coolant system is capable of cooling it.
A cooler stat will not make a car run cooler, it'll just take longer to heat up (and that's a great way to mask a problem when selling it and going for a short "test" drive)
You will only reach that 160F operating temp if your coolant system is capable of cooling it.
Right on TT
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Florida
I'm running twin Spal's on a Dewitt's aluminum rad with a 190-195 stat I forget which. Occassionally in heavy traffic and high ambient temp the temp gauge will reach 200, but normally never higher than 190.
I did drill two 1/8" holes in the stat just incase it gets locked in the closed position. Yeah, I know they're not supposed to lock in the closed position but over the years I've had two that did.
I did drill two 1/8" holes in the stat just incase it gets locked in the closed position. Yeah, I know they're not supposed to lock in the closed position but over the years I've had two that did.
Great combo
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Safety Car
Joined: Oct 1999
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From: NorCal
I run the same radiator setup as you with a single electric Flex-a-lite fan and a 180 stat. No problems generally although it gets to 210 or so with the A/C on in traffic. I attribute that to marginal flow with the single fan. I'd sure check the accuracy of the gauge/sender before I went any further. I love those IR temp guns for diagnosing this stuff, and I use them to check individual exhaust temps as well when I'm looking for performance problems.
Hans
Hans
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Lake Wylie, South Carolina
Thanks guys! For those running the dewitt's dual spal setup what temp do you have your controller set to for fan low and high triggers?
Also where can I get a heat sensing tool that ya'll are refering to?
Thanks
Wade
Also where can I get a heat sensing tool that ya'll are refering to?
Thanks
Wade
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2005
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Griffin radiator w/duel spals. ECU controls the fans, they're set to go on @ 193 temp, stat is 180*F. Temps stay at about 180. Initial timing set @ 18* BTDC.
Last edited by shafrs3; Mar 28, 2007 at 11:52 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
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I think you may be going the wrong direction. It appears most guys would say your cooling is adequate.
57 T-Birds are notorious for running hot. When examined closely, it is usually too lean a jet, or bad timing/bad vacuum advance. I would start there. Too lean, and it will run warm.
57 T-Birds are notorious for running hot. When examined closely, it is usually too lean a jet, or bad timing/bad vacuum advance. I would start there. Too lean, and it will run warm.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
What TT is saying is correct - the stat only determines minimum operating temp and has no control over maximum temp. Swapping stats will not have any effect on upper temp limit unless the stat is defective. Maximum temp is determined by cooling system capacity and heat input into the system.
Biggest contributor to excessive heat into the system is timing. If you are not running a vacuum advance system on your distributor, make sure you have a lot of initial timing -- up around 24-or-so initial. If you do have vacuum advance, make sure it's hooked up to manifold vacuum - not ported - in order to suck in a bunch of timing at idle. Advancing the timing greatly assists in running engine temps lower. Correct jetting also has an effect - you can richen it up a tad to help run a little cooler.
Biggest contributor to excessive heat into the system is timing. If you are not running a vacuum advance system on your distributor, make sure you have a lot of initial timing -- up around 24-or-so initial. If you do have vacuum advance, make sure it's hooked up to manifold vacuum - not ported - in order to suck in a bunch of timing at idle. Advancing the timing greatly assists in running engine temps lower. Correct jetting also has an effect - you can richen it up a tad to help run a little cooler.
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From: Plano TX
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Doha
St. Jude Donor '08
I drove my BB Vette today for 30 min and few traffic congestions in a 32 C ( around 90 F) and the temp was 200 at its max. My cooling system is totally stock. I think your cooling system should do a lot better than mine!
Pro
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Glen Allen (Richmond) Virginia
I have dual Spals with two variable controllers (generation II) that are completely independent of each other (wired and sensored separately) I have the fan nearest the radiator inlet coming on at 160 and going to high speed at 195.
The fan on the passenger side comes on at 170 and goes into high speed mode at 200.
The dual Spals are quiet on low speed and the car holds 185 with a 180 thermostat at long term idle. Have not had it in traffic yet.
Race Director
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From: Florida
Wade,
I have dual Spals with two variable controllers (generation II) that are completely independent of each other (wired and sensored separately) I have the fan nearest the radiator inlet coming on at 160 and going to high speed at 195.
The fan on the passenger side comes on at 170 and goes into high speed mode at 200.
The dual Spals are quiet on low speed and the car holds 185 with a 180 thermostat at long term idle. Have not had it in traffic yet.
I have dual Spals with two variable controllers (generation II) that are completely independent of each other (wired and sensored separately) I have the fan nearest the radiator inlet coming on at 160 and going to high speed at 195.
The fan on the passenger side comes on at 170 and goes into high speed mode at 200.
The dual Spals are quiet on low speed and the car holds 185 with a 180 thermostat at long term idle. Have not had it in traffic yet.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 582
Likes: 3
From: Glen Allen (Richmond) Virginia
Great question, The Spal variable controller works best with 20-25 degree spread and I wanted to get the fans into high gear before I start pushing past 200. I do have an overide switch under the dash that kicks them both into high speed. The controllers take five minutes to program so I am sure I will be goofing with them more.