Tiny little distributor timing question
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 845
Likes: 1
From: Columbus Indiana
Tiny little distributor timing question
Guys, I'm sorry. I used to know this years ago, but it's just been too long, I guess. I know this came up in a thread a few months ago, but I searched and can't find it.
I'm getting ready to put the engine back in the car. I've installed a new cam, all is back together and ok.
Right now my timing marks on the dampener and scale are at TDC. MY timing dots on the crank gear and cam gear are pointed at each other. Crank dot is 12:00, cam dot is at 6:00.
For TDC with #1 cyl firing, does the cam gear need to be at 6:00 or 12:00? Thanks for your help!
John
I'm getting ready to put the engine back in the car. I've installed a new cam, all is back together and ok.
Right now my timing marks on the dampener and scale are at TDC. MY timing dots on the crank gear and cam gear are pointed at each other. Crank dot is 12:00, cam dot is at 6:00.
For TDC with #1 cyl firing, does the cam gear need to be at 6:00 or 12:00? Thanks for your help!
John
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 845
Likes: 1
From: Columbus Indiana
John
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 11,322
Likes: 1
From: Living in the Hartland
I do not trust the dots, I rotate the engine until the #1 intake valve opens then rotate the eng until the TDC mark lines up with TDC mark on the pointer. Drop the dist so the rotor points to #1 cyl and you are ball park enough to fire the eng. Leave the dist loose enought to move it by hand to get a smooth running eng, then if you have a flat tappet cam break in it at 2000 rpm's for 20 minutes. Once the cam is broken in change the oil and set the timing.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,135
Likes: 2
From: Dayton Oh
If you've still got the heads off then you could check your damper's timing mark precisely using an indicator dial. If the heads are already on, you could use a piston stop to check the damper make as follows:
1) rotate crank clockwise until the piston contacts the stop. Mark a line on the damper where the timing pointer indicates.
2) rotate crank counter clockwise until the piston again contacts the stop. Make another mark on the damper where the pointer indicates.
3) Your TDC is a line exactly the distance between the two lines you've just drawn.
I had to use this method when building my current engine since the timing cover had no pointer welded on it.
Last edited by marshrat99; Mar 31, 2007 at 08:48 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 845
Likes: 1
From: Columbus Indiana
I've got to admit, I didn't check the dampener mark. Kinda stupid, really. I had the degree wheel on, and the dial indicator set up. My heads are already on. I did degree the cam, I guess I just had another memory lapse.
I trust the dots on the gears enough to use them for rough timing. If the dots are off, I've got bigger issues with cam timing than just rough setting the dist. Honestly, really, with this almost stocker engine, I probably could have just slapped it together with out checking anything and been just as well off.
Yep, I do a 20 min. break in just as suggested.... scuff the cyl walls, get everything seated. Change the oil, flush the junk, bolts, cigar stubs outta the pan
and a fresh oil filter and oil. Heck, it's just a very, very mildly warmed up over stock 350. We're not talking 4 bolt main, O ringing the deck, $1000 heads engine.
I will of course remove the carb, valve covers and dist before I re-install the engine.
A friend gave me the air cleaner. I need to get rid of it and get a decent dropped top air cleaner. Thanks for you fellers help!
John
I trust the dots on the gears enough to use them for rough timing. If the dots are off, I've got bigger issues with cam timing than just rough setting the dist. Honestly, really, with this almost stocker engine, I probably could have just slapped it together with out checking anything and been just as well off.
Yep, I do a 20 min. break in just as suggested.... scuff the cyl walls, get everything seated. Change the oil, flush the junk, bolts, cigar stubs outta the pan
and a fresh oil filter and oil. Heck, it's just a very, very mildly warmed up over stock 350. We're not talking 4 bolt main, O ringing the deck, $1000 heads engine. I will of course remove the carb, valve covers and dist before I re-install the engine.
A friend gave me the air cleaner. I need to get rid of it and get a decent dropped top air cleaner. Thanks for you fellers help!
John
Last edited by seventysixvette; Mar 31, 2007 at 11:20 AM.
