Headlight Problems...imagine That
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,601
Likes: 0
From: BETHEL PARK PENNSYLVANIA
Headlight Problems...imagine That
79 THE right starts to go up, gets half way then the left starts to go up(both very slow) once up... the left drops like it should but the right does nothing or after a while drops all of a sudden. i checked for vacuum everywhere it is supposed to be and replaced both relays with new ones and it didn't make a difference.
btw. there is a decent cam in this motor with a slight rough idle.
any ideas?
thanks
vc
btw. there is a decent cam in this motor with a slight rough idle.
any ideas?
thanks
vc
Last edited by Vette Crazzy; Apr 4, 2007 at 06:16 PM.
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 221
Likes: 1
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
I had a similar problem. I gave up dealing with two relays, now I am using just one and both lights come up together. This is what I did.
Buy one or two feet of 3/8” vacuum hose. Two 3/8" tee's.
You will tee the existing lines together back of the actuators together and front of the actuators together. The hose that you buy, you will cut in half these hoses will run from the tees to the relay valve.
The hose from the front of the actuators goes to the bottom port of the relay valve.
The hose from the back of the actuators goes to the top of the relay valve.
The hose from the supply tank that is part of the frame, where you would need to plug one of the ports goes to the middle port of the relay valve.
Use the relay value that operates the headlight that opens the best.
If after you have done the procurer and both lights come up together or close to together that would indicate that the other relay valve is weak.
If the headlights open the same as before that indicates the slow actuator might need to be rebuilt or replaced. Very easy to do
Buy one or two feet of 3/8” vacuum hose. Two 3/8" tee's.
You will tee the existing lines together back of the actuators together and front of the actuators together. The hose that you buy, you will cut in half these hoses will run from the tees to the relay valve.
The hose from the front of the actuators goes to the bottom port of the relay valve.
The hose from the back of the actuators goes to the top of the relay valve.
The hose from the supply tank that is part of the frame, where you would need to plug one of the ports goes to the middle port of the relay valve.
Use the relay value that operates the headlight that opens the best.
If after you have done the procurer and both lights come up together or close to together that would indicate that the other relay valve is weak.
If the headlights open the same as before that indicates the slow actuator might need to be rebuilt or replaced. Very easy to do
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,601
Likes: 0
From: BETHEL PARK PENNSYLVANIA
if both sides worked consistent with each other i could almost live with it... but they react to far apart from 1 another
vc
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 325
Likes: 0
From: Ocala FL
In that case use a T fitting and eliminate 1 relay at least as a test.
If they open at different rates running from one relay there is an issue with the force needed to raise the doors. A good cleaning and lube as a minimum, replacing bushings,etc as a worst case.
If they open at different rates running from one relay there is an issue with the force needed to raise the doors. A good cleaning and lube as a minimum, replacing bushings,etc as a worst case.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 325
Likes: 0
From: Ocala FL
The post from JC3vette describes it pretty well
you need 2 T's
Pick one relay to try
The yellow line to the center doesn't get messed with
The red TOP port gets T'd to the back of both H/L actuators
The green Bottom port gets T's to the front of both actuators
You need to unplug the other relay from the vacuum reservoir and cap that port on the reservoir
You also need to remove the T from the small white vac line to the "extra" relay and plumb the white to the one remaining relay that now controls both headlights
you need 2 T's
Pick one relay to try
The yellow line to the center doesn't get messed with
The red TOP port gets T'd to the back of both H/L actuators
The green Bottom port gets T's to the front of both actuators
You need to unplug the other relay from the vacuum reservoir and cap that port on the reservoir
You also need to remove the T from the small white vac line to the "extra" relay and plumb the white to the one remaining relay that now controls both headlights
Instructor
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
From: Fort Drum New York
Had an issue with my 81 lights also. They went up and down fine, untill I brought the car up to northern New York and the temp dropped into the 20's over night. When I fired it up in the morning, headlights came up on their own and stayed up. (I never turned them on at the switch)
The car is a edelbrock performer cam, glass smooth idle. Anyone else have this problem?
Robert
"Climb to Glory"
The car is a edelbrock performer cam, glass smooth idle. Anyone else have this problem?
Robert
"Climb to Glory"
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