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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 12:52 AM
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Default BB Timing chains

Last Saturday I went to another CF members house to help install a manifold and rebuilt Dizzy. As soon as I looked under the hood at that BB 454, I was back in High School working at a service station.
We had an account, fleet of BB 1 Ton trucks we serviced. I remembered changing an exhaust manifold, or timing chain at least once a month in 1 of their trucks.
I shared this story with John, and we decided while the manifold was off, why not take a look see. The valley has a nice 1 1/2" hole in the front, right behind the cam sprocket.
Here is what we found.




Now one of the Generals not so bright ideas was to make the cam sprocket out of aluminum, with nylon teeth, for a quieter engine. STUPID. This engine has 58,000 documented original miles. The slack in the timing chain was so bad, I almost slipped it off the cam sprocket.
Some of you have PM'd me concerning timing difficulties with your BB motors. If you have this original set-up in this condition, your dizzy will never be able to perform it's function.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 12:56 AM
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Thank you BigBird for the information that may help others. Oh one thing to add True Double Roller.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 01:03 AM
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Great pics....better drop the pan and clean out the oil pump pickup. Guess where all that plastic is???


JIM
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 01:03 AM
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Great info Big!!! Pontiac was another one notorious for shearing off teeth on the timing gears because of plastic construction.

Dep
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 01:04 AM
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That type of timimg gear is standard equipment on all Chevrolet V8`s. Just change it to one from a truck or any other steel gear setup and you will be fine. But remove the broken nylon pieces from the oil pan too.... .
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 01:09 AM
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Pan is off. We are done going backwards. Tomarrow the new chain goes in. Parts per Iron Cross instructions.

I just wish it was a pick-up, not a Vette. They must have used shoe horns to get that thing in there.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 01:14 AM
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Of course, it you want the "turbine sound", you can always go with a full gear drive setup

http://www.milodon.net/geardrives/pg44.htm
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 01:22 AM
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It's a nice, pretty unmolested #'s matching 72 454. He wants to retain the stock appearance.

Next decision up for grabs. The valves are pretty grungy for the milage. I know the valve seals are gone/turned to stone. The engine runs strong, and it does not smoke/use oil. Just a puff on start up.

I am tempted to do just the seals on the car, not a valve job. I am willing to bet the guides are fine. Opinions.(I know there is no shortage of em).
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 01:22 AM
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Originally Posted by DJ Dep
Of course, it you want the "turbine sound", you can always go with a full gear drive setup

http://www.milodon.net/geardrives/pg44.htm
Way too much overkill. Great for supercharged gas/fuel racing engines that also require a fuel pump drive on the cam gear. I personally prefer the Donovan racing drive for my Chryslers. But why not, I run a Donovan..... Not good for street. ... ......
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 04:01 AM
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Will those nylon teeth also be on my 1974 LS4?
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
It's a nice, pretty unmolested #'s matching 72 454. He wants to retain the stock appearance.

Next decision up for grabs. The valves are pretty grungy for the milage. I know the valve seals are gone/turned to stone. The engine runs strong, and it does not smoke/use oil. Just a puff on start up.

I am tempted to do just the seals on the car, not a valve job. I am willing to bet the guides are fine. Opinions.(I know there is no shortage of em).
I just put valve seals on a buddy's 58,000 mile '72 small block that was doing the puff on startup thing. The motor was VERY clean inside and half of the valve seals had turned to stone.

I wiggled each valve stem side to side when the spring was off and found many worn stems. The small block needs a valve job.

IF there is some money available on this project and If you are telling us that the manifolds are off then why not pull the intake and slip those heads off? Also If I had the oil pan still off I would consider a fresh oil pump and get that brittle plastic sleeve replaced on the oil pump shaft.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Clue
Will those nylon teeth also be on my 1974 LS4?
Yes. All Chevy BB came with these.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by coinwasher
I just put valve seals on a buddy's 58,000 mile '72 small block that was doing the puff on startup thing. The motor was VERY clean inside and half of the valve seals had turned to stone.

I wiggled each valve stem side to side when the spring was off and found many worn stems. The small block needs a valve job.

IF there is some money available on this project and If you are telling us that the manifolds are off then why not pull the intake and slip those heads off? Also If I had the oil pan still off I would consider a fresh oil pump and get that brittle plastic sleeve replaced on the oil pump shaft.
That has been suggested. It is not my car, and the owner will make that determination. I will look into the pump sleeve. Thanks.We are changing the rear seal today.

Last edited by Big2Bird; Apr 5, 2007 at 10:13 AM. Reason: Add
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Ironcross
Way too much overkill. Great for supercharged gas/fuel racing engines that also require a fuel pump drive on the cam gear. I personally prefer the Donovan racing drive for my Chryslers. But why not, I run a Donovan..... Not good for street. ... ......
It's old school for sure. And yes, I've heared them used on the street. They actually make a "silent" version without the high-pitched whine. The gear drive isn't really essential for good operation...but coolness factor is way high. Like listening to a jet turbine on a helicopter

Dep
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 10:14 AM
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If the guides are really worn, seals won't help for long. A good set of Perfect Circle seals on any Chevy will help. To really check the guides, the heads need to be on the bench, springs off, and lift the valve off the seat. See how much slop there is. On the seat, or too far off the seat, ( I forget what the actual spec is), and you get phony readings. The valve has to be in it's normal range of travel, but off the seat to really know how loose the guides are.

GM used those )(*#&$^ nylon covered gears in everything I can think of. I've taken the chain off with both gears still installed. On my stuff, or anything that had any kind of performance, I always go back with a double row roller chain, Cloyes, TRW, even GM has them.

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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 10:22 AM
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Cloyes True Roller.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by shafrs3
Cloyes True Roller.
I believe the speed shop sold him a set by Comp Cams. Good/bad/ugly?
I know what to do. Am just not hip on quality on some items.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
I believe the speed shop sold him a set by Comp Cams. Good/bad/ugly?
I know what to do. Am just not hip on quality on some items.
Probably good, as long as they are all metal and no plastic
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 10:32 AM
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I just looked at Comp's catalog. They show both a double roller chain AND a Morse-type. Which one did the speed shop sell him? Personally, I'd go with the double roller, but that's just me. I don't think there is anything wrong with the Morse chain and steel gears.

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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by TimAT
I just looked at Comp's catalog. They show both a double roller chain AND a Morse-type. Which one did the speed shop sell him? Personally, I'd go with the double roller, but that's just me. I don't think there is anything wrong with the Morse chain and steel gears.

John??????????????????????? Part #?
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