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T5 install..Clutch problem!

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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 12:16 PM
  #21  
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Congradulations!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 07:09 PM
  #22  
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Check the other post. The pics I gave you in there shows where the shifter comes through the tunnel and how much offset to the left you need to go with your shifter block. Cutting the tunnel top is required.

And yes, by design the transmission sit off to the right in the tunnel.

Scott...
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 10:11 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by aqua80
Check the other post. The pics I gave you in there shows where the shifter comes through the tunnel and how much offset to the left you need to go with your shifter block. Cutting the tunnel top is required.

And yes, by design the transmission sit off to the right in the tunnel.

Scott...
I can't find the post that gives the shifter location. I think Bernie told me that it should be 1" left and 1 1/2" back. Is this what you came up with also??
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 10:34 AM
  #24  
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Sly,
What I did was, with the tranny in place without the shifter installed, sit the console over the tanny in its proper location with the leather boot removed. You can measure how far right the shifter stub is under the console to the center of the opening in the console opening. Then you can also determine how far forward it is to get it centered. This will get you close enough to make it fit properly!
Caveman
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 12:45 PM
  #25  
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Thanks caveman!!
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 06:21 PM
  #26  
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Mine is a little different than your's. I used a 1995 transmission that puts the shifter in the correct spot fore and aft. Right off hand though I think those numbers bernie came up with aren't quite correct. I think that 1/2" aft is more in the ball park. The left might be close though. It's just something you have to put the console on and trial fit for the measurements. Here's that pic I was talking about.

Scott...

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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 07:57 AM
  #27  
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It has been so long I could have gotten them backwards!
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 09:05 AM
  #28  
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I measured and made the piece...It was 1 5/8" left and that is all, for my application. Today I am going to pick up the drive shaft. I got a brand new shaft with a new 3" tube and spicer 1310 joints front and rear for $200.00
I have to make some adjustments to the rear end, I have -6* and I need +2 to match the -2* I have at the trans. Both are adjustable so I will find a happy medium where the numbers are the same just opposite.
I also have to add the dextron. Any one remember how much trans fluid this thing takes??
Thanks for all the support guys!
I'll let you know tomorrow how everything turns out!
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 10:53 AM
  #29  
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Seems like a couple quarts. The auto store will know.
Bernie
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 06:01 PM
  #30  
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Capacity= 5.5 Pints.

Scott
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 08:37 AM
  #31  
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Thanks Scott.
Well.....IT'S DONE!!!!!!
But it won't start. This is like giving a kid a big toy on Christmas and not giving him the batteries!!!!
I will check the usual suspects...In my little mind I'm thinking it has to be the switch at the clutch pedal. Nothing else was touched. The car will turn over if I jump the starter.
What do you guys think???
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 09:33 AM
  #32  
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Sly.
Does your car have a switch on the clutch pedal? If it does, it needs to be attached to the switch on the tranny that won't let it start with the clutch out. You can simply connect those two wires together and it should start. Mine was an auto so I wired them together under the console and didn't use the switch at all.
Bernie
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 11:32 AM
  #33  
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I had allready fixed it when I read your post, Bernie. And that was it. It was the first thing I checked 'cause I figured it couldn't be anything else.
Now all I have to do is get the crossmember welded and I'm golden!!!
Except for one thing that I thing will cure itself over time. But if any of you have any reccomendations let me know.
I have some noise at the throw out brng when the pedal is fully depressed. Now remember I had to have the to brng just touching the clutch fingers to get it to release.
Also I am getting some chatter when I take off in 1st and reverse. I have never had to deal with a chattering problem so I may need some help with that one.
Thanks all!
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 10:25 AM
  #34  
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Please refer to my next post on "Clutch noise"

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1559937182

Last edited by sly vette; Apr 23, 2007 at 10:39 AM.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 04:20 PM
  #35  
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Drive it awhile and see if they go away. If not, remove it and readjust the pivot rod to see if you can back it off a turn and still get it to release. It won't take much to toast the throwout brg but they aren't expensive.
Bernie
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 07:41 PM
  #36  
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That was my intention, I just needed verify that it was a proper path to take. When this is finally done do I get a diploma form CAVEMAN UNIVERSITY???
Thanks again for all your help Bernie!
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 07:43 AM
  #37  
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Man that is exensive! All mine cost was a little time. I would bw willing to pay $80 to $100, but not $225.00. Just my two cents.
Bernie
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 07:48 AM
  #38  
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The adapter plate is actually pretty easy to make! And I used a ford t.o brng.
I am sure the adapter plate you speak of is very good, but this swap is kinda designed for us guys that need to save some bucks when we can.
If I had $4000.00 I would have went the Keisler route.
Thank you for your input though!
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 09:38 AM
  #39  
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For me the fun of doing this type of swap is locating the parts you need, making things that can't be bought and saving money. But that is just me. Also, helping others thru the process is very rewarding as well. Now, if my budget had allowed, I would have gone with Keisler since they are a local vendor.
Bernie
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 01:24 PM
  #40  
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Seaside,
You got up on the wrong side of the bed this morning! I said I would have spent the money if I had it, didn't I? Do it anyway you want to and let us know how much you spent. Give others the opportunity to see yet another way to do this swap.
You are welcome
Bernie
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