Paint Prep questions
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 720
Likes: 1
From: Holtwood PA
Paint Prep questions
My 75 has paint flaking off. I don't know if it is original paint (I have my doubts) but when I say flaking off I mean I can crack off a piece about 2 by 3 inches. Obviously something on the glas was not prepped right..What is the proper method for me to take off the old paint and prep and paint?? is there a type of paint that is better for fiberglas? any body experts out there?
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,986
Likes: 21
From: Columbus MN
Check carefully for signs of overspray and underspray to figure out if the car's been repainted. I had badly blistering paint too, most likely because Bubba didn't prep the old paint or body filler before changing the color. Once I started looking for details, I figured out that there were two coats of paint on top of the original. I just went down to bare glass and started over.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 9,206
Likes: 17
From: Sewell NJ
If you are having any issues at all with the old paint such as spiderwebbing, cracking, lifting, etc. you should take the car down to bare fiberglass before a repaint. If you don't you will just be covering up old problems which will resurface eventually. I've used Capt'n Lee's paint stripper on many ocassions and never had a problem with it. Here's a link to my site about stripping.
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vettfixr/page9.htm
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vettfixr/page9.htm
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,044
Likes: 0
From: Henrico VA
I just repainted my car. Lacquer thinner will take paint right off (scrub a lot, do not use too much, and never let it sit). I would say start with 200 grit sand paper, then move to 400 grit on an electric sander and use a wheel when you need it. Do you plan on doing any body work at all? Hope I helped, Adam.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
If the car has already been repainted, it may have been preped by using a chemical stripper on the paint. If the stripper was left on too long or got down into the glass, the remnants of that can cause the new paint to de-bond. Moral: be sure to get any stripper residue out of the glass by chemical or heat soaking prior to priming and re-painting again.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 720
Likes: 1
From: Holtwood PA
his is the type of info I was lookng for..yes I plan on taking it down to fiberglass..but don't want to go any farther (if you know what I mean!). But one of the things I was concerned with was repainting it and having the same thing happen. What paint/primern is best on fiberglass for bonding and appearance/durability?
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
I just stripped the convert hatch on mine. I used "Strip Clean" which is ok to use on fibreglass....but the counter guy at a different store sent me to HOME DEPOT or MENARD'S for "CITRUSTRIP" It is safe, it works great and it is environmental friendly and $12.00 a quart. Just be sure you wash your hands very well if you need to go to the bathroom.....(if you know what I mean) Larry
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 420
Likes: 1
From: Lapeer MI
Late night stripper residue
This pic shows the body after it was stripped. Still a little paint left.
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Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,986
Likes: 21
From: Columbus MN
[QUOTE=Red_Shift;1559983185]This is exactly why I did not use a chemical stripper and instead hired out the project to someone who could media blast. I believe it cost me $250 to $275 for the job. Definitely get someone with experience.
This pic shows the body after it was stripped. Still a little paint left.[QUOTE]
I recognize that media blasted look, and $275 is about what it cost to have my '80 media blasted.
Get someone with experience media blasting. You can't just go to any old sandblasting and asked them to media blast a fiberglass body if all they've ever done was metal.
Removing the remaining paint after blasting wasn't bad at all.
This pic shows the body after it was stripped. Still a little paint left.[QUOTE]
I recognize that media blasted look, and $275 is about what it cost to have my '80 media blasted.
Get someone with experience media blasting. You can't just go to any old sandblasting and asked them to media blast a fiberglass body if all they've ever done was metal.Removing the remaining paint after blasting wasn't bad at all.
Last edited by MN80Vette; Apr 26, 2007 at 11:40 PM.
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Laurel Hill Florida
I chemically stripped my 77 and then did all body work. It had the original paint and 2 re-paints. I think I lightened it up a couple pounds. 
The good thing about a vette is all the curves are very forgiving when it comes to bodywork. The bad thing is the body lines. Regardless of how you strip it, be very careful with all the ridges. Also, in my opinion, and many others, a very important part to painting a vette is a quality polyester sealer prior to priming. It's tough to block, but it creates a strong seal and barrier between the bare glass and the primer. The primer also sticks to it better than the bare glass. Hope this helps a little.
The good thing about a vette is all the curves are very forgiving when it comes to bodywork. The bad thing is the body lines. Regardless of how you strip it, be very careful with all the ridges. Also, in my opinion, and many others, a very important part to painting a vette is a quality polyester sealer prior to priming. It's tough to block, but it creates a strong seal and barrier between the bare glass and the primer. The primer also sticks to it better than the bare glass. Hope this helps a little.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 251
Likes: 0
From: Milan
About plastic media blasting, it's possible to do it yourself?
What I exactly need to do a good job?
I suppose a portable blaster...where I can buy it? With the same blaster, can I sand blasting the chassis too?
I'm going to restore my 69' (probabily a complete frame-off), so I need much information as possible!!
What I exactly need to do a good job?
I suppose a portable blaster...where I can buy it? With the same blaster, can I sand blasting the chassis too?
I'm going to restore my 69' (probabily a complete frame-off), so I need much information as possible!!
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,986
Likes: 21
From: Columbus MN
About plastic media blasting, it's possible to do it yourself?
What I exactly need to do a good job?
I suppose a portable blaster...where I can buy it? With the same blaster, can I sand blasting the chassis too?
I'm going to restore my 69' (probabily a complete frame-off), so I need much information as possible!!
What I exactly need to do a good job?
I suppose a portable blaster...where I can buy it? With the same blaster, can I sand blasting the chassis too?
I'm going to restore my 69' (probabily a complete frame-off), so I need much information as possible!!
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 420
Likes: 1
From: Lapeer MI
I think you need a very high volume lower pressure system but I'm not sure. I bet one needs a good sized air compressor. You need a helmet and air system like this guy. This is a photo of my Vette before stripping. Lastly I'll leave you with a quote. I know several have used chemical strippers successfully but here is something just to think about.
In his book How to Restore & Modify your Corvette 1968-82, Richard Newton writes
In his book How to Restore & Modify your Corvette 1968-82, Richard Newton writes
"General Motors is adamant that you should never use a chemical stripper on your Corvette. DuPont fells the same way. Both of these companies, which have decade of Corvette experience, feel that everyone should use plastic media blasting for Corvette paint removal."
