Head Bolt Re-Torque Question
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 53
From: Bogart GA
Head Bolt Re-Torque Question
It has been about a year since I installed my heads. I used Fel-Pro gaskets composition type. I have my headers off and valve covers off and am wondering if there would be any benefit in just breaking and re-torquing the head bolts. It is usually recommended that this is done after a few heat cycles but it has been a year.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,547
Likes: 12
From: Carbondale Pa.
I'd say if it aint broke dont fix it, leave well enough alone. Did you retorque them originally ? If you did the should be good to go, if you didnt I think any problems would have already occured. Peace,,,Moosie 
Senior Member since 1492
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 87,928
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From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
I rechecked mine after 2-3 heat cycles. I would not break them & retorque. just check them. I did in the same install sequence.
Mine were still dead on.
Mine were still dead on.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 53
From: Bogart GA
If you don't back off then I wouldn't expect them break at the torque spec. It takes more torque to "break" a bolt free. To properly re-torque you must back off on the bolt enough to break it then re-tighten.
Some gasket types require it, others just recommend it. I saw a car show where they used 2 heat guns at each coolant passage to artificially heat cycle the head. Heat guns are cheap and that sure beats having to remove valve covers and exhaust and in some cases rocker arms....
All this being said, I guess I will just leave it alone. I had it up to 6500 rpm with no probs.
Some gasket types require it, others just recommend it. I saw a car show where they used 2 heat guns at each coolant passage to artificially heat cycle the head. Heat guns are cheap and that sure beats having to remove valve covers and exhaust and in some cases rocker arms....
All this being said, I guess I will just leave it alone. I had it up to 6500 rpm with no probs.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Put a torque wrench on the bolt heads and tighten to the lowest level or the torque requirement. If the bolt doesn't turn....leave it alone. If it does turn, keep tightening until you hit nominal torque.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Most everyone puts sealant on head bolts- they go into the water jackets. After a year, that sealant won't be a flexible as it was new. If you re-torque the bolts, they may not seal and water leaks will be everywhere. And Fel-Pro gaskets are not supposed to need re-torque. I did mine (alumnium heads) but only after I'd ran it for 15 minutes. And all I did was check- I'd torqued them to the middle of the specs, and checked them at the lower end.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
After this long a period, I'd suggest leaving it alone if you aren't having any problems, as you may create some.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 53
From: Bogart GA
Thanks for the help, I may just check a couple to see if they move, if not, I will just leave alone. Good point regarding the sealant, All bolt locations on my block are blind bosses though.
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Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
From: IL
When you first torqued your bolts they are lubed, either with oil or sealer. After that long of time the oil is baked on or sealer is rock hard so retorque values will be bogus because of high friction. Bolts that go into water jackets can develope slight leakage at bolt heads but usually only if small amount of sealer was used to begin with. If all was done correctly to begin with you should have no issues, so I recommend leaving alone. Unless you see another problem while your in there.
Hope this helps,
Later.
Hope this helps,
Later.
