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Tach reads double

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Old May 1, 2007 | 08:19 AM
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Default Tach reads double

Is there a simple fix for this???
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Old May 1, 2007 | 08:46 AM
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Factory tach or aftermarket? If aftermarket you have it set for a 4cyl car.
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Old May 1, 2007 | 08:52 AM
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factory tach. HEI with one wire to tach. This is on an 81 with a non computer tach. I was talking about the one wire that goes to the tach plug on the dist. The computer has apparently been by-passed.

Last edited by dfolse62; May 1, 2007 at 09:52 AM.
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Old May 1, 2007 | 10:05 AM
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A tach reading double all the time would be a very unusual failure mode.
It would be difficult to explain by anything other than hosspower's suggestion: Its a 4 cylinder tach.


Do you have any other symptoms?

Does it read double all the time?
Does it return to 0 when you turn the ignition to RUN with the engine off?
Does it jump around?

What's your battery voltage. (The tach can be affected by low voltage)
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Old May 1, 2007 | 10:10 AM
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Hope you get an answer to this problem, as i have a 78 pace with the original tack that reads exactly double the rpms - i switched out the tack with another 78 tack and the replacement reads correct, i believe it is the chip on my circuit card for the tack but can't find a number for the chip.
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Old May 1, 2007 | 10:16 AM
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Doesn't jump, good voltage. When you turn engine off it stays at about 1400. Turn to run with engine off and it drops to 0.
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Old May 1, 2007 | 02:32 PM
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mine does this too
but when in neutral it reads just fine
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Old May 1, 2007 | 07:13 PM
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Well, you can try putting a filter on the tach line to the instrument panel.
This might filter out any ringing that the tach is reading as two pulses.

The filter ciruit is just a couple of resistors and caps.
Its R!, R2, C1, and C2 in this diagram:
Tach Filter


You can always test the tach using a modified AC adapter as I'm showing in this diagram.
If you apply 120Hz from a FWB rectified adapter, you should read 1800Hz.
I would not attempt this unless you have some electronics knowedge.
If you don't, find someone that does.
Tach Test


Shutting the engine off:
Switching off the ignition removes the electical power required to move the needle.
If you do this quickly, the tach will freeze at its last reading.

Power returns when you turn the ignition switch back to run.
There is no signal if the engine isn't running. It should read 0.

The chip is a national semiconductor LM1819.
They are obsolete. Good luck finding one.
Its easier to buy a new board on ebay.
The Gardner boards are highly rated.
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Old May 1, 2007 | 07:34 PM
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Do you have an aftermarket ignition box? If so, you my need to connect to the tach terminal on the box instead of the terminal on the dist.
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Old May 1, 2007 | 10:41 PM
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I've already replaced mine with the Tach board from Midamerica and it still didnt fix my problem. but before I did this my tach was completely non functional.. what should I do now
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Old May 2, 2007 | 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by White79
I've already replaced mine with the Tach board from Midamerica and it still didnt fix my problem.
but before I did this my tach was completely non functional.. what should I do now
Based on your symptoms...
Reads double when engine is running and in gear.
Reads correctly when in neutral.

I would think the tach circuit is working and you have either bad voltage,
or a bad signal.

I would:
Check your connection point as suggested above.
Check battery voltage when in gear.
Try a filter circuit
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Old May 2, 2007 | 03:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Kilroy1024

The chip is a national semiconductor LM1819.
They are obsolete. Good luck finding one.

Its easier to buy a new board on ebay.
The Gardner boards are highly rated.
Kilroy:

Just to clarify, your suggesting Gardner makes the tach printed wiring circuit boards and its easier to pick a new one up than attempt to find the semiconductor and replace it on the existing board?

Where is that board located? Behind the tach/speedo console?
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Old May 2, 2007 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by hunt4cleanair
Kilroy:

Just to clarify, your suggesting Gardner makes the tach printed wiring circuit boards and its easier to pick a new one up than attempt to find the semiconductor and replace it on the existing board?

Where is that board located? Behind the tach/speedo console?
Yes. The chip is tough to find and buying one and getting it shipped may cost $20-$30.

Yes. The board is at the back of the tach in the dash.
You have to drop the steering wheel, take off the windshield trim,
take out the dash pad, and then the instrument panel will pull out.
Its a pain in the butt.
(This is how it comes out on my 76)
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Old May 2, 2007 | 09:55 PM
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Mine read high so I replaced the circuit board and it fixed the problem. I just got one thing to say about replacing it PAIN THE TERRIBLE PAIN.
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Old May 3, 2007 | 10:37 AM
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I replaced a nonfunctional board with a mid america board and mine now is high as well. I don't think it is quite reading double but does read high. Maybe 50% ish high. I also put on a new filter at the same time.

I was told it is probably a bad board. I will replace it the next time I open the dash up for another issue as I'm not tearing that apart again just for that circuit board. Taking it apart is easy compared to getting it back together.
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Old May 3, 2007 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by supercalvin
I replaced a nonfunctional board with a mid america board and mine now is high as well. I don't think it is quite reading double but does read high. Maybe 50% ish high. I also put on a new filter at the same time.

I was told it is probably a bad board. I will replace it the next time I open the dash up for another issue as I'm not tearing that apart again just for that circuit board. Taking it apart is easy compared to getting it back together.

thats what they said when I called in for technical support, so they sent me a new one... Same story different day, I think the circuit boards from MA are bad
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Old May 3, 2007 | 06:19 PM
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I guess I should have called them when I had the chance.
This was about a year ago now. I have learned to live with it and mentally adjust by feel of engine.

If I blow the engine I guess I'll be able to justify a 'modest' upgrade.
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Old May 3, 2007 | 06:43 PM
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Default Tach Nightmare(s)

I went the board replacement route TWICE and could never get the stock Tach to work. I refused to rip the dash out again so I just installed a good after-market
Tach on the steering column. Someone did mention to me that sometimes the problem can be as simple as replacing the Tach Filter, but I see another reply that said he tried that.
I actually had the vendor bench test both of the boards I tried and they both worked fine when he tested them, so why they wouldn't work when I installed each of them is still a mystery, but I wasn't going to let it make me go mental, so the after-market unit suits me just fine because the car is a daily driver and I'm not sweating the fact that the original Tach refuses to work. Good Luck, mick
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Old May 3, 2007 | 07:43 PM
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I suspect that the tach signal line needs to be filtered to "clean up" unwanted pulses. Extraneous pulses from ignition, etc. can trick the tach into counting more pulses than those sent by the tachometer, alone. If the circuit board is new, the filter is what I would try first. Find the tach filter in your system and replace it with the circuit presented above. That's a lot easier than tearing the dash apart.
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Old May 3, 2007 | 08:03 PM
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yeah ill try that.. Thanks
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