nervous steering
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 647
Likes: 22
From: Norwalk CT and Boynton Beach FL
nervous steering
I totally replaced the entire front end of my 75 vet-- new springs, bushings, ball joints,tie rods, idler arm, shocks, power steering pump, hoses, valve & piston. Also replaced all 4 tires. Then a 4 wheel alignment (but no rear end tow alignment yet and the rear tires have far too much tow-in by 3 times). I notice that when I'm driveing on the highway over 65, I have to make too many back and forth adjustments to the steering wheel. It seems that there is a little too much left to right play before the wheels turn. My mechanic who installed all this stuff say eveything is tight. Is there an adjustment in the steering box or someplace else that can tighten this up for me --- or what else should I check.
Thanks
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
I see a big omission from your list of replaced parts - the rag joint between the steering column and steering box. If it's worn out, you'll have to turn the wheel a bit before the box starts turning. That can lead to some very interesting steering situations, and too many repair shops ignore the danged thing.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,155
Likes: 0
From: San Diego California
I see a big omission from your list of replaced parts - the rag joint between the steering column and steering box. If it's worn out, you'll have to turn the wheel a bit before the box starts turning. That can lead to some very interesting steering situations, and too many repair shops ignore the danged thing.
Finish the job with a new rag joint. I'll bet you'll be happy with the result.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,056
Likes: 40
From: Life is Messy, Bring a mop
Same work and same issue (I did adjust the box). I'll check my rag joint. Mine will occasionally JUMP into a groove (from heavy trucks on city streets) and scare the bejezus out of me.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,004
Likes: 7
From: Adelaide South Australia
My issues with front end darting left and right on every undulation was remedied by new tyres and a proper 4 wheel alignment.
You have to find a workshop that knows how to setup these ol' girls properly. Many workshops which work on a fixed price alignment will NOT spend the necessary time to do the job properly. It takes time, especially if shims need to be inserted/removed for the rear.
I found this out after my third wheel alignment.
My front wheels had 2 degrees toe-out, rather than toe-in..... and that was the main culprit for the instability.
Just a suggestion, as you mentioned you have issues with the alignment.
cheers
You have to find a workshop that knows how to setup these ol' girls properly. Many workshops which work on a fixed price alignment will NOT spend the necessary time to do the job properly. It takes time, especially if shims need to be inserted/removed for the rear.
I found this out after my third wheel alignment.
My front wheels had 2 degrees toe-out, rather than toe-in..... and that was the main culprit for the instability.
Just a suggestion, as you mentioned you have issues with the alignment.
cheers
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Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
From: Saskatoon Saskatchewan
Just finished replaceing my rag joint. Helped quite a bit. Took out about 2" of hand play on the steering wheel. I would definetly replace it if yours is origional. Mine was rotted and had slotted holes!
T
T
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,527
Likes: 1
From: St. Petersburg, Fl///Columbus, Ohio
Whenever you get an alignment on ANY car ask for a print-out... It's the only way to know if your car was done right. even if you don't understand the results scan & post it here and lots of us know how to read the results & help out.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 438
Likes: 1
From: Hunington Beach California
Ok, I was old school alignment--toe done in inches. On the read outs now is degrees. Can someone translate?
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,993
Likes: 1,136
From: League City Tx
WHere is a good place to get GOOD rag joints...my car has the major slop in the steering wheel also...My car drives and steers good, its just got a ton of slack in the wheel before it starts to turn. I am sure my car has the original rag joint...
Is there a good brand to get that bolts up like the original? I know some of the aftermarket joints use different bolts etc..
Is there a good brand to get that bolts up like the original? I know some of the aftermarket joints use different bolts etc..
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
The shop manual should have both inches and degrees listed. If not, I know VB&P does. I worked for Hunter for two years, and I don't think I ever heard of a conversion formula.
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta GA
Another thought would be to replace the power steering control valve. My car would make an immediate left turn as soon as I let go of the steering wheel, even just sitting still until I replaced that and the slave cylinder. Hope that helps! Good luck with it!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,527
Likes: 1
From: St. Petersburg, Fl///Columbus, Ohio
Proper bleeding and adjusting the controll valve might have also fixed that.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 113
From: Saginaw Michigan
The two OEM flexible coupling assemblies are:
1968 and early 1969 (full round splines - no flat) GM #7806391
Late 1969 through 1982 (flange has machined flat) GM #7818568
I just ran both part numbers through GMPartsDirect and both come up as good numbers. So they should be available through any GM dealership for lots of $.
Unfortunately, I am losing confidence in the full assemblies and the repair kits that are available on the aftermarket. If you attempt to purchase a flexible coupling assembly from a Corvette supplier, I would question if they are providing an original GM OEM part or something else (like from China!). If the supplier acts dumb like he/she doesn't know, you are probably getting a part from overseas. The overseas type parts have resulted in steering wheels being upside down.
Jim
1968 and early 1969 (full round splines - no flat) GM #7806391
Late 1969 through 1982 (flange has machined flat) GM #7818568
I just ran both part numbers through GMPartsDirect and both come up as good numbers. So they should be available through any GM dealership for lots of $.
Unfortunately, I am losing confidence in the full assemblies and the repair kits that are available on the aftermarket. If you attempt to purchase a flexible coupling assembly from a Corvette supplier, I would question if they are providing an original GM OEM part or something else (like from China!). If the supplier acts dumb like he/she doesn't know, you are probably getting a part from overseas. The overseas type parts have resulted in steering wheels being upside down.
Jim
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 7,996
Likes: 0
From: McAlester Oklahoma
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,173
Likes: 3,982
From: Connecticut, USA
I use only GM rags. Buy them while the dealers still can get them. About $90 each
7th Gear
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Montreal Quebec
I also replaced from A - Z in the front even thought must parts were still in good shape, also poly bushings in the rear, still wandered in ruts, finally upon using alignment specs from VBP (I think) and changing my tires, it finally handles well, it's now enjoyable to drive even over rough roads etc. In my case replacing the tires and good alignment is what did the trick.