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Wife bought 14 " chromed "high air flow" filter (father's day gift) for me for our vette. Car is a '73 coupe with a 12" air filter housed in the traditional 2 air inlet opening housing with the ugly black rubber topping that seals with the hood when closed. Here is the question: can I install the new "high air flow" 14 inch filter and run it without the housing and rubber part that presses against the hood? The 14" doesn't have an opening for the current pcv tube to connect to. What would I do with the pcv valve that connects into the valve cover?.................... Thanks for any input, and sorry I don't know the technical names of the parts!
Wife bought 14 " chromed "high air flow" filter (father's day gift) for me for our vette. Car is a '73 coupe with a 12" air filter housed in the traditional 2 air inlet opening housing with the ugly black rubber topping that seals with the hood when closed. Here is the question: can I install the new "high air flow" 14 inch filter and run it without the housing and rubber part that presses against the hood?
Yes. Although you will negate the cowl induction that the "ugly black rubber topping" provides.
The 14" doesn't have an opening for the current pcv tube to connect to. What would I do with the pcv valve that connects into the valve cover?.................... Thanks for any input, and sorry I don't know the technical names of the parts!
Most after market air cleaners have a little piece you can punch out so you can attach tubing to it. Though in my experience the breather (passenger side) attaches to the air cleaner, and the PCV valve is routed into the carb for the vacuum.
Of course, there are many ways to do things.
The 14" doesn't have an opening for the current pcv tube to connect to. What would I do with the pcv valve that connects into the valve cover?.................... Thanks for any input, and sorry I don't know the technical names of the parts!
If your new filter base doesn't have the knock-out, you'll need to devise a way to connect the vent tube from the valve cover to the base on the carb side of the filter. Also make sure you have enuf clearance before you drop the hood. I've seen aftermarket elbows that attach to the filter base with two screws or rivets at speed shops or auto parts stores.
I felt very fortunate as I bought mine ('73) new and the rubber seal ring was not all smashed like most of the ones I've seen. Not sure how that happened. Lucky for once.
Last edited by 7t3shark; Jun 18, 2007 at 12:22 AM.
Reason: New info.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
The PCV does not connect to the air cleaner - it connects to the base of the carb. You need to retain the PCV and not disable it - it is essential to keeping oil consumption low and reducing crankcase pressures.
The tube that goes from the valve cover to the air cleaner is the PCV inlet air vent tube. You can replace it with a push-in breather in the valve cover opposite the PCV.
The PCV does not connect to the air cleaner - it connects to the base of the carb. You need to retain the PCV and not disable it - it is essential to keeping oil consumption low and reducing crankcase pressures.
The tube that goes from the valve cover to the air cleaner is the PCV inlet air vent tube. You can replace it with a push-in breather in the valve cover opposite the PCV.
An engine builder recently told my friend that a standard breather on each valve cover is ok to run without a PCV. Is that really true?
Like Lars and the others say you need the PCV valve. Since your putting on a fancy air cleaner I wouldn't go cutting holes in it. Replace the tube from the air cleaner to the valve cover with one of these
That depends on how much you enjoy your engine and compartment coated in a oily mist and the smell of crankcase vapors wafting through the cockpit
...only if you install the breathers incorrectly, or buy a cheap set. Mine prevent any splash from the rockers, and any remaining condensation runs back into the covers. The hot crankcase air is wafted directly toward CA.
Give your wife a big hug, say "thank you" for the fancy filter, then RETURN IT! Get a K&N filter element for your STOCK filter assembly. Keep your stock pcv system and your factory cowl induction. You'll make more hp, have zero headaches, and have nothing else to buy. Just my .02.
Thanks to all with the input......... I am going to look for a filter that matches up better with my breather. One question though, will I detract from performance by not using the "ugly black hood seal" that helps with cowl induction? Is there a better set-up that I could go with for air intake? Seems like the stock set-up is restricted by the two inlet ports that sit on the air filter................. truth be told, I am a novice vette owner(and mechanic), but now have my dream car and want to manage it as much as possible by myself...........
p.s big shout out to lars for fixing my Q-jet in a timely and professional manner!
Keep the "ugly" black seal. It has the look of a high performance engine.
The stock PCV system is good to keep. Most of the time the aftermarket dual breather setups will just make a mess on the engine. The PCV system does not pull any vacuum at wide open throttle so it can't slow you down any. All it does is help you and it is free if you still have the pieces.
I might suggest trying to run the new chrome lid and filter but keep the stock base. Look great and work great too.
Keep the "ugly" black seal. It has the look of a high performance engine.
The stock PCV system is good to keep. Most of the time the aftermarket dual breather setups will just make a mess on the engine. The PCV system does not pull any vacuum at wide open throttle so it can't slow you down any. All it does is help you and it is free if you still have the pieces.
I might suggest trying to run the new chrome lid and filter but keep the stock base. Look great and work great too.
-Mark.
If he wants a chrome lid, then he'll have to have the stock one chromed as it is 12" and his new one is 14". As far as the "ugly, black seal" goes, try to get a new one that's not deformed and replace it. Most of the originals came from the factory looking like they had been wadded up prior to install.
Also if you don't drive in winter or live where winters are mild, you can remove the door in the cowl induction in the hood and have some cold air all of the time.
Last edited by 7t3shark; Jun 21, 2007 at 04:50 PM.
Reason: added info
The PCV does not connect to the air cleaner - it connects to the base of the carb. You need to retain the PCV and not disable it - it is essential to keeping oil consumption low and reducing crankcase pressures.
Sorry to hijack the thread, but I've been fighting a few problems with my engine running rough on my TPI swap. Starting out I "disabled" the pvc system by capping off the pvc port in the manifold.
I've since hooked it all up and fixed it to where the pvc stuff works. I put some brand new bosch platinum 2 pugs prior to fixing the pvc issue, after removing them they were soaked in oil.
I didn't have this problem prior to my TPI swap....
Having said that is it possible that the pressure build-up in the crankcase cause oil to blow past my valve seals?
Sorry to hijack the thread, but I've been fighting a few problems with my engine running rough on my TPI swap. Starting out I "disabled" the pvc system by capping off the pvc port in the manifold.
I've since hooked it all up and fixed it to where the pvc stuff works. I put some brand new bosch platinum 2 pugs prior to fixing the pvc issue, after removing them they were soaked in oil.
I didn't have this problem prior to my TPI swap....
Having said that is it possible that the pressure build-up in the crankcase cause oil to blow past my valve seals?
One of the biggest causes of oily plugs is a leaking intake to head gasket. The ports can suck in oil and foul the plugs. It happens a lot on intake manifold swaps.
Put some stock plugs in there and see if it helps. Those platinum plugs are not the hot ticket. If stockers are fouled up after you run them for a while you may need some hotter plugs
I doubt the PCV has anything to do with it unless you modified it. Putting aftermarket valve covers on there without the internal baffles will help oil up those plugs for you too.
One of the biggest causes of oily plugs is a leaking intake to head gasket. The ports can suck in oil and foul the plugs. It happens a lot on intake manifold swaps.
-Mark.
Yeah it's very possible that could be the problem, I've been fighting a miss too..maybe a vacuum leak or fouled plugs...none of this started until I changed intakes. I guess it wouldn't hurt to take a saturday afternoon and re-seat the manifold just to be sure.
But why would it foul all the plugs?
Edit: My car is running RICH , after pulling one of the other Bosch Platinum 2 plugs, it looked "oily" but smelled a lot like fuel. Maybe that's what it is? I'm going to pull the plugs and switch back to AC delco plugs.
Last edited by 1982CorvetteDude; Jun 24, 2007 at 09:01 PM.