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A.I.R. pump help needed

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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 01:10 PM
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Default A.I.R. pump help needed

I am looking to purchase a replacment AIR pump for my car and am wondering if anyone can answer a few questions. Although I can't remember exactly why, I believe that I have a 72 SB pump in my 69 SB car. It has a black fan and an early style snorkel.

My pump has begun making grinding noises that can be heard while the engine is idling and it goes away when the engine is revved.

I have looked around on the web and have seen several "rebuilt" units available. One claims to fit all cars from 68 to 78 while the other states 72 to 78 replacement.

Are these units generic enough that the diverter/snorkel will fit from 68 onward?? Thanks.

Mark
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 04:41 PM
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68 is a little bit unique but a 69 and up will fit if it is a Chevy pump. 67 is a one year only setup. The pumps are the same for quite a few years.

-Mark.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 04:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Burgundy 69
I am looking to purchase a replacment AIR pump for my car and am wondering if anyone can answer a few questions. Although I can't remember exactly why, I believe that I have a 72 SB pump in my 69 SB car. It has a black fan and an early style snorkel.

I have looked around on the web and have seen several "rebuilt" units available. One claims to fit all cars from 68 to 78 while the other states 72 to 78 replacement.
Mark:

1969 through 76 used the same diverter valve part number for the small block (GM#7029199). And while 69 used a 7805650 AIR pump, 70-77 called for the same GM$ 7801149 pump assembly whether smallblock or big block...when AIR was called for to meet emission requirements. So, your 69 using a 72 pump makes sense.

Are these units generic enough that the diverter/snorkel will fit from 68 onward?? Thanks.
When I look at part charts for AIR assemblies from 69-77, I conclude that indeed they are sufficiently generic to work on the applications for those model years.

In the early years, different models were used to squirt different amounts of O2 into the exhaust system but I suspect by the early 70's, engineers figured out how to tune them to the point that one part number was sufficient for all applications.

I dont' know what your looking at paying for the pump, but there are rebuilders. Most likely picking up a unit would be less expensive though
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 05:58 AM
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Do a google search on Bill Hodel. He is the guru of AIR systems and may well have what you want in stock. He can also give you the info on what type of pump you have in your car.
Gary
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 09:50 AM
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Default thanks for the replies!

I ended up buying a rebuilt 68 to 71 replacement pump from Corvette Central for $81. We'll see how that goes.

I spoke with Jerry MacNeish at Camaro Hi-Performance ( http://www.z28camaro.com/smogsystem.html) the other day and he suggested gutting the pump. That sounded reasonable until he mentioned a $275 fee. I know that he will refinish the unit to like new condition, (he did a beautiful job on my 69 L-46 aluminum valve covers), but for $81, I'll start with the rebuilt unit..

Mark
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 11:45 AM
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The clearance on the inside of the pump is close and the spool will rust and make noise as it hits the outer shell. Oil in the hole on the top may quiet it down as a quick fix.
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Burgundy 69
I ended up buying a rebuilt 68 to 71 replacement pump from Corvette Central for $81. We'll see how that goes.

I spoke with Jerry MacNeish at Camaro Hi-Performance ( http://www.z28camaro.com/smogsystem.html) the other day and he suggested gutting the pump. That sounded reasonable until he mentioned a $275 fee. I know that he will refinish the unit to like new condition, (he did a beautiful job on my 69 L-46 aluminum valve covers), but for $81, I'll start with the rebuilt unit..

Mark
I have gutted pumps before and while it is free and easy, this is not easily reversible. Once they are gutted they need to be professionaly rebuilt if you ever need it to work again for some reason.

You can just cut some holes in the bottom of the rubber hoses off the discharge of the pump and block the opening in the ends of the trees where they go into the manifold if you want. Nobody will notice and it prevents trashing an otherwise good pump. I did this before and it saves the pump. This also prevents the afterfiring you can get from the system especialy when the diverter valve is shot. No permanant mods and it looks stock.

Send a PM if you need more details.

-Mark.
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 12:46 PM
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Default hmmmm

Originally Posted by LYLE
The clearance on the inside of the pump is close and the spool will rust and make noise as it hits the outer shell. Oil in the hole on the top may quiet it down as a quick fix.

Although I have already ordered a rebuilt unit, I may just give this a try before pulling my existing pump. Thanks for the suggestion.

Mark
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