When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Why do they have helm joints, doesn't seem like there should be that much twisting going on up there, or I would think the front crossmember and radiater support would be cracking. Why not just use some square tube with brackets welded (or even bolted) directly to it and the frame?
the added support there stiffens it up a good bit, and is a good additon, but it does need the Heim Joints for the unusual flex due to specifice of YOUR alignment or the welds will most likely break....and of course the added flexibility of being able to align the front end first, then install the bar...
You need to pre-load it so that there isn't any tower travel before it gets to the amount of force to do any good. Spherical end rods are an obvious choice because there are so many available too. The same is true for IRS traction bars.
Why adjustment? Just weld or bolt the thing together so it fits on the (particular) car. Jack the car up while installing, if you want to pre-load it.
I agree the only reason the spreader bar needs to be adjustable to fit various frame size differences. The spherical rod ends give it a cool factor and allow for misalignment. You could just weld it in.
The spreader bar would be very inconvenient if you ever wanted to do any major engine work, up to and including removal of the block, if it was welded in. Also, I'm sure it would crack out as much as these frames flex, unless you did other major reinforcement on the rest of the frame, which pretty much means a cage. Use heim joints.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Depends on where you mount it. Most guys attach the end brackets to the A-arm pivots. If you weld the bracket, it is no longer adjustable, and that limits your future ability to adjust the camber and caster of the suspension. If you attach it to the frame point (where the A-arms bolt to, then you could weld it, as it no longer needs to be adjustable.
After seeing the link to the installation, I see why it needs to be adjustable. I haven't seen one installed. I didn't realize it bolted to the adjustment studs, thought it was bolted directly to the frame somewhere.
I'm still not crazy about the rod ends here though; I guess I am used to seeing triangulated strut tower braces, which provide significantly more rigidity. Probably need to go full cage through the firewall for something similar on the vette.
i installed one on my car about six year ago. i could not believe how much this one small bar did to "tighten up" my car for such a relatively small investment. still to this day, dollar for dollar, the best suspension mod i've made.
"your mileage may vary".
Good discussion. I'm sure installing one makes a positive difference. I was just thinking out loud if there is something more rigid that could be installed instead. It seems like anything else would be either a major modification (full cage), or get in the way for engine work (bar welded in directly).
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I put together that tech tip when I did my install years ago. When I first put it in the car I could not believe that it made that much of a difference. I was well pleased with the ease of installation. I agree for the money, it was well worth it.
If the bar were welded on the ends you would never be able to add shims if you preloaded the bar much. Rod ends allow you to take the preload back out and add or remove shims to get the alignment correct.