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1971 Power Steering Issue

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Old Jul 1, 2007 | 08:23 PM
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Default 1971 Power Steering Issue

I have 1971 big block in which I have installed a rebuild kit in the pump, steering cylinder and control valve.....but....can't get it zero centered. I either have power to the right OR the left. Any ideas short of a new power steering control valve?
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Old Jul 1, 2007 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ltphoto
I have 1971 big block in which I have installed a rebuild kit in the pump, steering cylinder and control valve.....but....can't get it zero centered. I either have power to the right OR the left. Any ideas short of a new power steering control valve?
Are you adjusting the valve by the book? Wheels off the ground I think is the way.
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Old Jul 2, 2007 | 09:58 PM
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Yes _ I have done that but there seems to be a breaking point where it goes from left to right. Maybe I need to try "one more time".
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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 08:10 AM
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If that don't work I have read that other GM car lines the pump had a different pressure as I recall.
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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by ltphoto
Yes _ I have done that but there seems to be a breaking point where it goes from left to right. Maybe I need to try "one more time".
Not questioning your ability....but here's a few tips.
Wheels centered & off the ground, car running, system full.
Ever so slowly turn the nut till wheels move. Mark the nut position on the valve.
Turn in opposite direction slowly till wheels move. Make mark again.
Split the difference of your marks.
Remember, it takes a few seconds for the valve to react to your adjustments, so turn the adjustment nut a little at a time while waiting for the system to react before proceding.
Worked like a charm for me....
Good luck
Eddie
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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 12:09 PM
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If you have any air left in the system it will result in erratic assist. I think that a lot of people (shortly after making repairs on their power steering system) have trouble balancing the valve because of some trapped air. I would try balancing the valve once again since air has had some time to work out of the system.
Jim
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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 09:39 PM
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Thank you all for the tips. Hope to find time to work on it a bit this week. Will let you know how it turns out.
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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 10:08 PM
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Hi Itphoto, if you follow edzred72's instructions you will have it balanced, I just did the same repair, then my steering wheel pointed to the right so I went for an alignment. They said they could not do it because the ball socket moves 1/8 of an inch, left and right in the control valve, before anything else moves. They showed me the movement with the car on the drive on lift with the motor off. Is my new valve bad or is that normal? PG.
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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 10:47 PM
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the instructions I had were to adjust the ram with it disconected from the steering linkage, made the job real easy and not to mention much safer
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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 10:48 PM
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the instructions I had were to adjust the ram with it disconected from the steering linkage, made the job real easy and not to mention much safer
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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 10:57 PM
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The visual motion of the ball stud in the control valve is normal with the engine off! That is the first time that I have heard that someone has said that they can't align the front end because of the stud movement.
Jim
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 01:11 AM
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Hi Jim Shea, and thanks for the information. I will try for an alignment again on Monday. Is there any place that I can get an exploded view or at least a cross section of the control valve? I would just like to see how it works.
Also the installation of this valve just upsets the tow in, is that correct?
Thanks again, PG
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 09:41 AM
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Actually, the more I think about it, installing a new control valve will only affect your steering system centering. The relay rod and tie rod lengths are not disturbed by the control valve installation; therefore you should not need an alignment because none of the parts that affect your front end geometry has changed. (You may have to tweek the steering wheel centering by lengthening one tie rod and shortening the other side by an equal amount.)

BTW, it is good practice to count the number of turns that it takes to remove the old valve. Install the new valve with the same number of turns. This should get you pretty close to the original centering position for the system.

I suggest that you go to www.corvettefaq.com
Click on Jim Shea's Steering Articles
Click on Corvette Steering Papers

Scroll down to the control valve section. There are blowups and cutaway drawings in that section.

Also scroll down near the end of the listings. There is a paper entitled Steering Wheel Centering. That also may be helpful.

I will be gone on vacation for the next 10 days. I probably won't be able to get to a computer during that time. Talk to you soon.
Good luck,
Jim

Last edited by Jim Shea; Jul 8, 2007 at 09:43 AM.
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 12:15 PM
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Hi Jim Shea and thanks again for the help. The car goes straight down the road but the steering wheel is pointed at 2 o'clock, I called it a tow in problem but you used the correct words, it's a centering problem. Your papers are terrific, thank you again and enjoy your vacation. PG
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 12:15 PM
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Jim Shea....your information on your site is great...I have a question..I'm about to add power steering to a SBC chevy that was not equiped ....Any insights on things to be on the lookout for the install.... Thanks
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 12:15 PM
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Jim Shea....your information on your site is great...I have a question..I'm about to add power steering to a SBC chevy that was not equiped ....Any insights on things to be on the lookout for the install.... Thanks
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 04:05 PM
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Thanks for all the help:
Gator-yes I balanced it with the cylinder disconnected.
Jim Shea- I can't thank you enough, turns out the left and right toe was off, everything else is okay and the wheel centered again. PG
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