Stroker Cam And Heads Question
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
-edit- FYI Crane spring&retainer kit # 10309-1
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...1&lvl=2&prt=34
Last edited by jackson; Aug 3, 2007 at 07:24 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
The flow on the Sportsman II really aren't much better - the port volume is larger, but the flow numbers still top out around .500 lift.
It really is overwhelming - if you think about your budget and the power numbers you want, it's easier to make good choices. It's ulimately about matching pieces to get the power that you want that makes a great engine.
It really is overwhelming - if you think about your budget and the power numbers you want, it's easier to make good choices. It's ulimately about matching pieces to get the power that you want that makes a great engine.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
hence suggestion John match his primarily street iron 64cc 383 w/ a dished piston.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
To buy heads, or not to buy heads - that is the question.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
-edit- John already indicates he plans an econo/budget rotating assembly ... I don't see the practicality of matching that to expensive heads/roller cam.
Last edited by jackson; Aug 3, 2007 at 08:27 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
I think you need to look at my original post. I'm not at all sure what you disagree with...
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Holy CRAP!! I really started something here!!! Anyway, common sense is telling me to keep the heads in current state (unmodified), build the bottom stroker with flat top pistons, and use a moderate cam such as the Lunati Voodoo cam. The lift on the cam I am eying has a .460 intake lift, and .480 exhaust lift. Install a 1000 rpm higher stall torque converter. Building a budget motor in this way will allow me to keep costs down, not break drivetrain components, and still build a streetable motor that I can have fun with.
One mistake I do not want to make is building a powerful motor (this will be my first bottom end build) that will not destroy my drivetrain components.
The most important thing to me is to have that hard acceleration and that seat of the pants feeling. This is what I want most. If I can accomplish this with a budget build I will be happy.
By the way, I want to thank all of the guys who are tring to help me. If it were not for this forum, I will have to ask machine shops, and that is only one opinion. Here, I get all opinoins.
Thanks again!!!
John
One mistake I do not want to make is building a powerful motor (this will be my first bottom end build) that will not destroy my drivetrain components.
The most important thing to me is to have that hard acceleration and that seat of the pants feeling. This is what I want most. If I can accomplish this with a budget build I will be happy.
By the way, I want to thank all of the guys who are tring to help me. If it were not for this forum, I will have to ask machine shops, and that is only one opinion. Here, I get all opinoins.
Thanks again!!!
John
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Veteran
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,284
Likes: 81
From: Nashville, TN
I built my 383 with the 12cc dish piston eagle internal balanced crank, I used the Crane HR-284-2S-12 IG cam with 1.6 roller rockers, I get
.543/.563 lift, I used the RHS Pro Action 200cc aluminum heads flat milled to 61cc and a 2600 stall converter. I am at around 10.5:1 CR. I also used the shift kit when I rebuilt the th-400. I am running 3.36 gears and am very pleased with the performance. I also have Hooker side pipes with the max flow inserts. The desktop dyno says I am getting 535 HP @ 6000 rpm and 521 TQ @ 5000 rpm. I find that pretty hard to believe and would bet I am between 450 to 500 in both categories.
.543/.563 lift, I used the RHS Pro Action 200cc aluminum heads flat milled to 61cc and a 2600 stall converter. I am at around 10.5:1 CR. I also used the shift kit when I rebuilt the th-400. I am running 3.36 gears and am very pleased with the performance. I also have Hooker side pipes with the max flow inserts. The desktop dyno says I am getting 535 HP @ 6000 rpm and 521 TQ @ 5000 rpm. I find that pretty hard to believe and would bet I am between 450 to 500 in both categories.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Well, there's certainly no shortage of opinions 
Your targets look right to me and I think you'll find you've got a nice beastie. You can always go back and upgrade the heads and/or cam if you decide you want more.
Probably a best buy would be a cast rotating ***'y from Eagle or Scat.
Your targets look right to me and I think you'll find you've got a nice beastie. You can always go back and upgrade the heads and/or cam if you decide you want more.
Probably a best buy would be a cast rotating ***'y from Eagle or Scat.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 945
Likes: 0
From: Ventura California
As for John's cam:
Those heads won't support a whole lot of cam. However, flattops & iron 64cc 383 resulting compression would indicate a need for more cam in order to bleed off some compression. Looks like a mismatch seeking a place to roost.
Suggest a dished piston w/ iron 64cc 383 combo ... and a moderate cam.
Octane requirements are directly proportional to compression ratio ... pump gas ain't so great these days; I expect it to only get crappier.
I build dedicated circletrack motors for 110 race gas ... and a few street motors. ie ... currently assembling a vortec head (iron 64cc) 383 for a pal's dailydriver pu truck. About 9.2:1 scr & 197*/207* .460"/.480" cam ... hyper piston is SpeedPro H890CP w/ -23cc dish with felpro 1094 steel 0.015" shim head gasket. G'Luck!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Upon reading this I have to agree with the need to watch out for the compression with the iron head. As stated in my previous post I run a Dart head. It is 64cc and it is iron. It is very sensitive to timing. It will ping like a biotch if the timing is even a little off. Runs great but I should have used a bit more cam, aluminum heads, or dropped compression a bit. Hindsight now but educational for my next engine build.
Dynamic compression is definitely a means to run higher static compression, but IMHO this doesn't really come into play for engines making less than about 1.4 HP/CID. For a street engine, this is basically just tossing out fuel milage and driveability with no real incrase in power. Quench is another matter, and most of the engines I've seen with timing sensitivity have had huge quench and even the addition of a thin head gasket has helped significantly. I'm building an LT1 383 right now with zero deck, .039 quench and 11.5 CR...that will run on 91 octane
CarCraft did a relatively decent back-to-back test of iron vs. aluminum heads for CR sensitivity and in my opinon disproved this. WAY open for debate, but it was a good enough test for me. Lots of other advantages to aluminum heads - better chambers and flow, ease of porting, etc.
