electrical wizards please help
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
From: greeley pa.
electrical wizards please help
hi all,posted my problem yesterday but not getting any feedback.5 total electrical shutdows over past 2 weeks.they all "healed" without anything being done!!! i have checked and rechecked everything i can.I restored this car from ground up,so i'm not a newbie.I suspect a grounding problem because there is never a spark,blown fuse or "sizzle".I need to find out what locations on car's electrical layout can cause this,horn relay etc.???thanks crew....jc
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 124
Likes: 1
From: Bowmanville Ontario
Your car just dies?
No lights,no nothing?
And when it "heals" itself, you haven't touched anything, the car just cools down?
Try looking at you fusible link wire and it's connections, might be a break in it.
Or it could be your ignition switch.
No lights,no nothing?
And when it "heals" itself, you haven't touched anything, the car just cools down?
Try looking at you fusible link wire and it's connections, might be a break in it.
Or it could be your ignition switch.
Last edited by Bruce C; Aug 19, 2007 at 09:02 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
From: greeley pa.
wizards
hi,bruce,when it happens,all power is out,lights,signals and off course engine.happens cold or hot,lasts from several seconds to 10-15 mins.ignition switch sometimes hard to turn,but when i jiggle it,doesn't have any effect.switch does not control lighting (i don't think)
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
If "everything" goes then its going to be a main pos. or neg. not an individual circuit.My first thought is neg. battery cable ground at frame under battery.Next would be an internaly shorted battery.
Edit-if you have a set of jumper cable use one cable to go from neg batt term to frame-this will bypass the neg cable.
If you have access to another batt from another car swap them and see if the problem follows the battery.
Edit-if you have a set of jumper cable use one cable to go from neg batt term to frame-this will bypass the neg cable.
If you have access to another batt from another car swap them and see if the problem follows the battery.
Last edited by ...Roger...; Aug 19, 2007 at 10:14 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,669
Likes: 3
From: Kingston Ontario
Intermittent faults are not fun!
The battery circuit is common to different malfunctions listed.
Is the battery ground cable the original? They are known for breaking down inside the cable insulation. Check for good connections at battery and frame. You can always change the ground on spec if original.
The battery circuit is common to different malfunctions listed.
Is the battery ground cable the original? They are known for breaking down inside the cable insulation. Check for good connections at battery and frame. You can always change the ground on spec if original.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 124
Likes: 1
From: Bowmanville Ontario
I Just threw in the ignition switch, just in case it was just the engine/accessories that died. You are right, it doesn't control the lights.
My 74 has a junction block up under drivers side fender, check those connections, one of those wires is the main feed to your fuse block, check it until it actually gets to the fuses and branches out.
Check the ground wires from block to frame and frame to battery as well, but your car won't crank very well if they're not really good connections in the first place.
A short in the battery would knock out the fusible link, the car would still run if the battery circuit opens ( A car will run without a battery once it's started, but it's hard on the regulator and things like radios).
Intermittent problems are a pain, but be patient. Turn on the interior lights and have someone watch for a flicker, or play the radio while you wiggle wires. The car doesn't have to be running.
My 74 has a junction block up under drivers side fender, check those connections, one of those wires is the main feed to your fuse block, check it until it actually gets to the fuses and branches out.
Check the ground wires from block to frame and frame to battery as well, but your car won't crank very well if they're not really good connections in the first place.
A short in the battery would knock out the fusible link, the car would still run if the battery circuit opens ( A car will run without a battery once it's started, but it's hard on the regulator and things like radios).
Intermittent problems are a pain, but be patient. Turn on the interior lights and have someone watch for a flicker, or play the radio while you wiggle wires. The car doesn't have to be running.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 237
Likes: 0
From: TAMPA FL
Had a similer problem. Check the fuseable link on the hot wire coming off the starter at the + cable connection. I could get in mine and have no power, get out raise the hood look around shut the hood get back in and have all power. It was the fuseable link, the crimp was bad where it connected to the harness. Took me three months to run it down.
Dennis
Dennis
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,114
Likes: 0
From: upstate N.Y.
Almost sounds like alternater . If the battery doesn't charge it will run for awhile till all power is drained. after sitting it will come back up and start and run till it drains the power again from the battery.
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