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Bob,
The ZZ4's dip stick worked with my headers. It is on the passenger side though. I have Headman's which are the shorty type i.e all the tubes meet at the center then go down and to the back together. I don't know is super comps etc. will clear.
For your ZZ4, the GM ministarter, Part 12361146, will work with both 14 inch flywheels (168 teeth) and 12.75 inch flywheels (153 teeth). It has a black painted body. If you want chrome plated, order part 12363128. These ministarters will fit all GM V8's made between 1958 and 1996. (Another starter, 10465385, is recommended for the 502 engine - it needs a 14 inch flywheel). I bought ZZ4 ministarter from Summit. Arrived a day later.
Flywheels: The GM Performance part catalog (2005, page 80) states that "All Chevy small-block and big-block engines with a one-piece crankshaft seal require an externally balanced flywheel or flexplate."
ZZ4's have a one-piece crankshaft seal. The catalog lists the 12.75 inch flywheel, 14088650, as being the "standard-weight flywheel for one-piece crank seal." If you want a 14 inch flywheelfor a one piece crank seal, it's part 10105832.
The catalog lists the 12.75 inch flywheel, 14088650, as being the "standard-weight flywheel for one-piece crank seal." If you want a 14 inch flywheelfor a one piece crank seal, it's part 10105832.
Yup
My L-48 has an 11" clutch (I found the receipt from when I bought the kit last year) so that means it has a 14" flywheel.
So,hopefully I will be able to use my old starter with no modifications. I was throwing around the idea of using my old Hayes Street & Strip clutch setup VS spending another $300+
It only has about 3,500 miles on it. Any opinions on this?
GM flywheels for the ZZ are quite expensive... I've seen them new from $170 to $240 but every once in a while I get lucky.
I called a friend that builds race engines to ask him about the flywheel dilemma and heres what I came home with .
A freshly machined unit for $60..... Not bad
Last edited by Bob Onit; Aug 27, 2007 at 03:11 PM.
Yup
My L-48 has an 11" clutch (I found the receipt from when I bought the kit last year) so that means it has a 14" flywheel.
So,hopefully I will be able to use my old starter with no modifications. I was throwing around the idea of using my old Hayes Street & Strip clutch setup VS spending another $300+
It only has about 3,500 miles on it. Any opinions on this?
GM flywheels for the ZZ are quite expensive... I've seen them new from $170 to $240 but every once in a while I get lucky.
I called a friend that builds race engines to ask him about the flywheel dilemma and heres what I came home with .
A freshly machined unit for $60..... Not bad
Great price there Bob, couldn't go wrong with that.
Great price there Bob, couldn't go wrong with that.
Yup, I believe your correct.
I think I'm going to go with the Edelbrock aluminum water pump unless someone can convince me that a stock GM pump wont leak and then I'll have all the parts for the swap
The engine will arrive here tomorrow.
I think I'm going to go with the Edelbrock aluminum water pump unless someone can convince me that a stock GM pump wont leak and then I'll have all the parts for the swap
The engine will arrive here tomorrow.
I am sure you will be very happy with the Edelbrock Victor Series pump. It is made to fit the ZZ4 without grinding off or replacing bolts. Thickness is also correct for any mounting brackets that are bolted to it as well.
I know I have an 11" clutch so I know I have a 14" flywheel and need to replace it with a 14" as well. And and my starter bolts are staggered too.
I am still curious as to what others have used and where they bought it because I will be ordering the flywheel before I start the swap
QUOTE]
FWIT, the 2007 GM Performance Parts Catalog, page 207 has a chart of available small block flywheels that could be helpful to in making your decision. You can also view the catalog online at http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/_r...talog_2007.pdf in which case the chart is on page 205.
Not to say you need to stick with a GM flywheel, but this info should help you figure out what you need.
Seriously, Bob - congrats! Sounds like a great project and I'm glad it's coming along so well!
Gotta be a tiny bit better than the L-48
Originally Posted by PeteZO6
FWIT, the 2007 GM Performance Parts Catalog, page 207 has a chart of available small block flywheels that could be helpful to in making your decision. You can also view the catalog online at http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/_r...talog_2007.pdf in which case the chart is on page 205.
Not to say you need to stick with a GM flywheel, but this info should help you figure out what you need.
Hey Pete!
Thats the first place I looked
It's a bit confusing
Part numbers have been changed, ext balance was not stated on certain parts, ect:
Thanks!
I'm right behind you. My ZZ4 came in today, and I'll be tackling the swap on my 72 this winter, with Hookers, side pipes, and a 2004R. This thread has been invaluable.
I am sure you will be very happy with the Edelbrock Victor Series pump. It is made to fit the ZZ4 without grinding off or replacing bolts. Thickness is also correct for any mounting brackets that are bolted to it as well.
The only real problem with the ZZ4s is that they are dogs. I've not seen a dyno test on any that showed RWHP in excess of about 250 and most seem to be in the 225-240 hp range.
Originally Posted by theandies
I can tell you that my ZZ4 is not a DOG and I know that it is not losing approximately 30% of it's power as suggested above. It is probably putting down around 290 to 300 to the road.
Originally Posted by billla
I'll respectfully disagree; I've seen a number of engine dyno results on the ZZ4 putting it pretty close to claimed numbers. Common sense based on experience tells us that a 10:1 350 with decent heads and cam is going to make right around 1 HP/CID.
Originally Posted by toddalin
Show me the chassis dyno slips.
I had my ZZ4 Dyno tuned on Wednesday, I'll scan the slips for ya tonight after work and post them up.
Here are the numbers from the last pull.
Not a rocket but certainly not a dog.
282.3 RWHP @ 4,500 RPM
376.2 RW TQ @ 3,200 RPM
Not bad numbers. What carb are you using? We are still in the 500 mi break-in period for our ZZ4. It has good power (I would like more) and I'm looking forward to the reliability.
I still have a vibration at 1200 RPM that I cannot seem to get rid of... I'm going to swap out the poly engine mounts back to rubber and see if that helps any.
Other than that it's a great little engine with tons of torque.
ZZ4 advertised is 355HP@5300 and 405TQ@3600HP
Drivetrain loss estimates are 18-20%
355 * .8 = 284 HP
405 * .8 = 324 TQ
So this engine is putting out a tiny bit less than advertised horsepower (but within 2 HP of what I posted 8/24 and got shot at for ), and a fair bit more than advertised torque. Those are darn nice numbers for a street engine, IMHO.
Would be interesting to see the whole curve considering where the power peaks are in relation to advertised RPM.
Would be interesting to see the whole curve considering where the power peaks are in relation to advertised RPM.
Bill, I will post the sheets.. gotta install scanner software...It's not the graph style print out its the chart style that shows RPM HP TQ A/F and MPH but you can still see the peaks and drops per each 100 RPM .
Originally Posted by standup
Hey Bob
Just wanted to say good luck with the new motor.....have fun with it.....you're gonna love it !!!!!
Thanks... just in time to put it away for the winter
If you have any doubts about a ZZ4's capability here is a chassis dyno run I made a couple of years back (RWHP). It is NOT a stock ZZ4, but it hasn't been heavily modified either. Mods are:
1 - GM's Hot Cam
2 - AFR's rev kit
3 - Manley "race flow" valves, springs, and retainers
4 - Light porting the ZZ4 heads at home to remove machining marks, casting irregularities, etc. while I had the heads apart. I didn't increase the port volume much at all; just cleaned them up. These were the 1st heads I've ever ported and didn't want to screw them up.
Best 1/4 pass to date is 12.8 @ 108 mph.
Don't pay attention to the blue curve, I was WAY lean the first run. I had to pull off the dyno and jet up 6 sizes in the carb.
I'm starting to get things sorted somewhat.
I believe finding the correct flywheel will be a drag
Many variables... Bell housing style, starter nose cone, flywheel diameter, ring teeth, starter mounting holes on new block.....
buy the flywheel right from the dealer. It is for one piece rear seal ,168 tooth flywwheel. gm has them new for that motor.