lame... not even that I want to know, or care... but thats just a lame, selfish statement to post on this forum.

 

Posted to avoid inquiries from viewing my photos.
Apparently didn't work.
I don't break promises regardless.
Thanks for adding value to the thread.

 

That is one nice setup you have, one day I am tempted to do the same to my 1980. Looks really good !!

 

I wired the oil pressure switch up on the firewall near the spot the oil pressure line goes through. I put a tee in the line from the block and wired the switch from there.

 

Thanks. I need to see if I put a T fitting into the block where the oil pressure gauge fitting goes, if the T will affect the clutch linkage. I don't think it will but I have to check. If it doesn't I just need to find the T that will fit both the block (male end) and have two female ends to fit the oil pressure switch and stock oil pressure guage fitting.


Engine is home in front of the vette.
Last night I took the accessories off so I could tape off the block and get it ready for paint. I also picked up a pair of VERY cheap alluminum valve covers. Exactly what I wanted but couldn't afford since the cheapest I've seen them is close to $300 from summit. Picked these up for a third of that. Tried to bolt them up and the bolt holes seem to be off a hair. I can bend them out a hair and it should fit fine...BUT these covers don't clear my alternator. Again I could probably do some bending/denting with a hammer but I'll leave that for the winter time.
They do look though.
Paint time tonight!!!!
Gonna throw some laquer thinner and paint prep down then hit it with the POR-15 engine enamel Chevy Orange.

 

Question: Do you think it is necessary to install that 90 degree hose that runs from the top of the water pump to the intake manifold? From what I understand it helps release airbubbles in the water pump. it was there on my 454 that came with the car. The intake with the orange water neck is a vette big block intake with the fitting for the 90 degree hose circled in red.
The other pic is my new RPM air gap which has the port but is plugged. The Edelbrock water pump also has the port but is plugged. I have a brand new 90 degree hose. Where can I get the nipples/fittings for those ports to use with the 90 degree hose?
Thanks






Will these work? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Thats a lot of $$ when all I need are 2 fittings. Not running a heater hose.

 

Found'em. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
Nice stainless ones at that.
I'd rather stay away from the chrome plated steel fittings when water will be passing thru them.

Got two coats of paint on the heads, letting them dry then might try to get a coat on the block tonight if I can keep my eyes open or I'll have to squeeze two coats in tomorrow so I can get this beast in the car over the holiday weekend.

 

Running on 3 hours of sleep.
Got two coats of POR-15 Engine enamel(Aluminum color) on the heads. They look alright.
Got one coat of POR-15 Engine enamel (Chevy Orange) on the block.
Blue color still shows thru.
I'm not sure if these cans I bought at Carlisle were old or what but the paint seemed very watery and thin. Paint ran like a motha. Had to go back over the heads once the first flyby started to dry.

Anyone else use the same paint? was it thin when applied? how many coats did you have to do?

Here are some pics. Hard to see the blue in the pics b/c of the cameras flash. I promise you the orange looks dirtyish and the blue still comes through.
I used Laquer thinner and removed as much of the blue paint as I could then used metal ready, then a paint prep solution, then painted.

 

My experience with POR-15 is that it is a very thick paint with lots of solids in it. Goes on thick and takes forever to dry. Once it does...it's there forever though! Those splotchy spots look like oil/grease/moisture still getting to it.....it does seem to be picky about that. I used a propane torch on the whole block to cook the moisture etc off right before painting.

I used it on my 540 block when it was first built. A few years later I pulled it out to do some upgrades and when I happened to be looking at the pics I had taken just before it was installed, I was amazed to see how much it had faded. It was very light as compared to the bright orange it was when I installed it.

But it stuck very well. So now it's basically a primer coat and I just use Duplicolor or Krylon spray bombs and it looks great.

JIM

 

Could the backspacing be a secret because he is selling someone else's wheels as his own and if the backspacing is listed it will be obvious they are not his rims?

 

or... if you wanted to sell a new softdrink to the public would you tell them the exact ingredients to make it themselves? Not my cup of tea but all are possibilities. Now stop watching CSI. moving on.

 

Thanks Jim
I don't plan on beating on my car too much but I hope the paint holds up to the heat. The orange always looks great when new but sh*ty when dirty. Hopfully I'm able to keep'er pretty.

 

ANYTHING you do to cover that ugly blue will be a huge improvement! I never figured out why they used that color unless they got a heck of a deal on it!

JIM

 

I kind of liked the blue actually...However, Chevy orange is hard to beat and i have painted both the motors in my vette chevy orange. Looking good man!

 

Thanks guys.
Applied the final coats last night, looks much better.

I agree Jim, no idea why the blue. Maybe cheaper b/c noone else wants to buy it.

Brown truck is scheduled to dop off some pressents today including a Power Master starter, centerforce dual friction clutch, roller pilot bearing, oil pressure cutoff switch, thermostats & neck, Ultra 40 plug wires and a few other small items. Hoping to throw the clutch, lakewood bellhousing w/ block saver shield and starter on this weekend and in she goes. Then I can nit-pick and install the small stuff.
Still have to wire the Mark VIII fan with dc controller.
My only parts left to purchase are radiator hoses, clutch boss, power steering hoses for hydro/jeep box and a power steering pump if necessary, i might try to get away with the stock pump due to budget restrictions. If it burns out it burns out and I have to upgrade anyway.

Oh and I also need spark plugs.....what plugs are you guys running with the merlin block and hooker sidepipes??? not sure if it is just with the hooker pipes but the previous owner said he had to use Accel Shorty Header plugs p/n 0275s, he mentioned the 0276s won't fit b/c they're too long. Anyone find the 0275s or can recommend other plugs that they know fit my setup?? I'm running Moroso Ultra 40 race plug wires.

Also, anyone running an HEI distributor on their big block? Engine came with an HEI but the previous owner used an MSD tach drive unit to retain his stock tach. I have converted mine to HEI but the distributor looks huge. I'm unsure if it will fit. Just curious if others were able to get them to fit in their vette. I'm not sure what type of distributor it is, it has a billet shaft and base.
Here's a tuff pic.

 

Yep it will fit fine...tight but it works OK.

JIM

 

You may have problems with a 14" drop base aircleaner, at least that is a given on a small block.

 

Thanks for the encouragement and advice guys.

As of last night here's where I'm at.
New Hays perf flywheel on, pure brass pilot bushing in, blocksaver plate on, high tq mini starter on, painting all done, centerforce dual friction 11" clutch on.









I'm digging the orange and aluminum paint.

Here's the M21 trans with hurst comp plus shifter.

 

Looks great man, can't wait to see it during the install process.

 

Keep the pictures coming. Looks like it will be a real sweet ride when you're done.