Vette...meet Merlin
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 2
From: North NJ
I'll keep an eye on one of the ebay listings for a refurbished and updated one from RacePumps directly.
I got a mallory high perf electric pump and regulator with all fittings in my package deal with the engine so I can just go that route.
The race pump would be nice and I could use the regulator I already have.
I wouldnt have to do all the wiring and plumbing for the electric pump.
I'll see how that auction goes over the weekend as the electric pump plumbing will be done next tuesday/wed.
Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,429
Likes: 20
From: Kingston Ontario
I had a holley blue in my last Vette and I'll never have another electric. It's way too noisy and a PITA to mount and run lines for not to mention if any of the many fittings comes loose. The race pump is bolt on . I got one for $170.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 2
From: North NJ
I have to start selling some of these parts I took off the car to stop my wallet from screaming.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 2
From: North NJ
Its In!!!!
Well, after 5 1/2 hours of grunting and sore shoulders the beast is in.
Most use the engine hoist from the side but my unfortunate driveway does not allow for this angle of entry so like always we have to do it the difficult way.
But its in nonetheless.
I'm very worried about the hooker sidepipes fitting with the jeep box.
I know the headers are pre-dented for the stock steering box so we'll see if more denting is required or a rack setup is in the near future...in which case this car may not see the road this year.
Also, the driverside valve cover hits the firewall right behind the brake booster/hydro unit. It touches, not force is applied at the moment but it is a concern. During engine torque the engine will twist to the pass side but under recoil might hit the firewall. I am running poly mounts so I hope that keeps things stiff enough to prevent damage.
I'll post more when I have some time.
The next few days will be spend with the headers, fuel system and wiring along with the mark VIII fan install.
What do you all think?
I'm the dirty one. My father or brother wanted nothing to do with the responsibility of the engine hoist, I was also the one on the ground manuvering the tranny.
And yess the oil filter will be changed after start-up to a nice clean one.
Most use the engine hoist from the side but my unfortunate driveway does not allow for this angle of entry so like always we have to do it the difficult way.
But its in nonetheless.
I'm very worried about the hooker sidepipes fitting with the jeep box.
I know the headers are pre-dented for the stock steering box so we'll see if more denting is required or a rack setup is in the near future...in which case this car may not see the road this year.
Also, the driverside valve cover hits the firewall right behind the brake booster/hydro unit. It touches, not force is applied at the moment but it is a concern. During engine torque the engine will twist to the pass side but under recoil might hit the firewall. I am running poly mounts so I hope that keeps things stiff enough to prevent damage.
I'll post more when I have some time.
The next few days will be spend with the headers, fuel system and wiring along with the mark VIII fan install.
What do you all think?
I'm the dirty one. My father or brother wanted nothing to do with the responsibility of the engine hoist, I was also the one on the ground manuvering the tranny.
And yess the oil filter will be changed after start-up to a nice clean one.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,139
Likes: 0
From: Salina Kansas
Looks good! Yeah, I would definitely do the header fitment next, that does look tight. Can't believe that is going to fit under the stock hood, lol. Did you settle on an aircleaner yet?
When your putting those motors in a vette, don't you have visions of the lift failing and what the nose/fender of your vette looks like after? I know I do every time...
When your putting those motors in a vette, don't you have visions of the lift failing and what the nose/fender of your vette looks like after? I know I do every time...
Last edited by CorvetteDave01; Sep 17, 2007 at 02:10 PM.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 2
From: North NJ
Looks good! Yeah, I would definitely do the header fitment next, that does look tight. Can't believe that is going to fit under the stock hood, lol. Did you settle on an aircleaner yet?
When your putting those motors in a vette, don't you have visions of the lift failing and what the nose/fender of your vette looks like after? I know I do every time...
When your putting those motors in a vette, don't you have visions of the lift failing and what the nose/fender of your vette looks like after? I know I do every time...
I have an extreme drop base with K&N filter with filter top. I'm pretty confident it will fit, if not, I'll make it fit.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 2
From: North NJ
Headers are ON!!!
Well to much of my suprise and yours...I did not have to bust out the engine lift to fit the headers on.
Passenger side went easy as usual.
Driver side was a major PIA but only b/c of the darn jeep box.
The Hooker headers were pre-dimpled which fit fine but did require some massaging of the dimple to clear the side of the box.
The major PIA was the other part of the jeep box towards the steering knuckle. This of course is not stock so was not pre-dimpled. I wrapped up a large socket in a cloth and went at it with a heavy hammer. Pipe dimpled very easy and no ceramic coating chipping.
Took 4 or 5 tries of wacking away, fitting, removing, wacking away and fitting. But finally got it. Looks nice.
Should I be concerned if the body rests on the sidepipe near the collector? I know the headers get hot, is this a fire concern???
some eye candy. I circled the dimple areas.
pass side...
driver side...
better view of the new jeep box dimple area.
Passenger side went easy as usual.
Driver side was a major PIA but only b/c of the darn jeep box.
The Hooker headers were pre-dimpled which fit fine but did require some massaging of the dimple to clear the side of the box.
The major PIA was the other part of the jeep box towards the steering knuckle. This of course is not stock so was not pre-dimpled. I wrapped up a large socket in a cloth and went at it with a heavy hammer. Pipe dimpled very easy and no ceramic coating chipping.
Took 4 or 5 tries of wacking away, fitting, removing, wacking away and fitting. But finally got it. Looks nice.
Should I be concerned if the body rests on the sidepipe near the collector? I know the headers get hot, is this a fire concern???
some eye candy. I circled the dimple areas.
pass side...
driver side...
better view of the new jeep box dimple area.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,139
Likes: 0
From: Salina Kansas
Not sure the minimum clearance you need to the body, but those look too close imo. I have about 1" clearance to anything painted on both sides. Not sure what you could do about that other than check your body mounts or mess up your nice new headers with a torch.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 2
From: North NJ
All the dimples clear the jeep box, the pics make it look like they are touching but there is a very small space b/w the jeep box and the header. My line of thinking is since I'm running poly mounts and when the engine torques over its going to twist towards the passenger side, not driverside. This torgue rollover should be small due to the stiffness of the poly mount and the recoil shouldn't be a big deal. If there is contact the headers may get dimpled further in that one spot at the front of the jeep box but then should be good from then on.
I will be working on clearancing the headers from the fiberglass today.
Thanks for your comments.
I will be working on clearancing the headers from the fiberglass today.
Thanks for your comments.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,659
Likes: 7
From: Katy (Houston) TX
CI 7-8 Veteran
You mentioned your valve covers hit your firewall. Have you tried the fabricated covers yet or are those the ones that are hitting? There are other choices if you don't want to have to cut and re-glass that area. Here are what I went with. They are marine BB valve covers. Might be a little hard to see in the picture but they are angled on the outside. Moroso also makes them in a fabricated version but very $$$.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
It is so much easier to install the motor and bolt it in the engine mounts. Leave the hoist attached or use a floor jack on the oil pan to adjust the rear of the motor down. Then attach the tranny from underneath.
Pulling the tranny out first and then the motor for removal.
I also never remove the hood and go from the side. It's just one less thing to reinstall and adjust.
Pulling the tranny out first and then the motor for removal.
I also never remove the hood and go from the side. It's just one less thing to reinstall and adjust.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 2
From: North NJ
Thanks TShort. I picked up fabricated valve covers from Carsile this year but they are even bigger on the edges and won't even clear the alternator. Interesting idea about the marine valve covers. I got the fabricated covers very cheap so I might try messing around with them over winter and get them to clear everything. In the mean time I'll look for a trick set of marine covers. I love the welded aluminum look.
Unfortunately my driveway is very narrow so going in from the side with the hoist is out of the question. My only option is from the front which is a major pain but its my only option. Remember I have no garage, this full 2yr frame off has been inside one of those driveway tents.
I thought about the tranny seperately b/c thats how I removed it 2yrs ago but with a new clutch, flywheel, engine and pilot bushing I didn't want to take the chance of misaligning anything while doing assembly in the car. I also don't have a removable tranny xmember, one thing I wish I cut and welded. Took lots of patience and elbow grease but its in and aligned perfectly.
Thanks for your comments though. When I upgrade to a 5 or 6 speed down the line I'll cut out the xmember and do a removable custom one.
It is so much easier to install the motor and bolt it in the engine mounts. Leave the hoist attached or use a floor jack on the oil pan to adjust the rear of the motor down. Then attach the tranny from underneath.
Pulling the tranny out first and then the motor for removal.
I also never remove the hood and go from the side. It's just one less thing to reinstall and adjust.
Pulling the tranny out first and then the motor for removal.
I also never remove the hood and go from the side. It's just one less thing to reinstall and adjust.
I thought about the tranny seperately b/c thats how I removed it 2yrs ago but with a new clutch, flywheel, engine and pilot bushing I didn't want to take the chance of misaligning anything while doing assembly in the car. I also don't have a removable tranny xmember, one thing I wish I cut and welded. Took lots of patience and elbow grease but its in and aligned perfectly.
Thanks for your comments though. When I upgrade to a 5 or 6 speed down the line I'll cut out the xmember and do a removable custom one.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Thanks TShort. I picked up fabricated valve covers from Carsile this year but they are even bigger on the edges and won't even clear the alternator. Interesting idea about the marine valve covers. I got the fabricated covers very cheap so I might try messing around with them over winter and get them to clear everything. In the mean time I'll look for a trick set of marine covers. I love the welded aluminum look.
Unfortunately my driveway is very narrow so going in from the side with the hoist is out of the question. My only option is from the front which is a major pain but its my only option. Remember I have no garage, this full 2yr frame off has been inside one of those driveway tents.
I thought about the tranny seperately b/c thats how I removed it 2yrs ago but with a new clutch, flywheel, engine and pilot bushing I didn't want to take the chance of misaligning anything while doing assembly in the car. I also don't have a removable tranny xmember, one thing I wish I cut and welded. Took lots of patience and elbow grease but its in and aligned perfectly.
Thanks for your comments though. When I upgrade to a 5 or 6 speed down the line I'll cut out the xmember and do a removable custom one.
Unfortunately my driveway is very narrow so going in from the side with the hoist is out of the question. My only option is from the front which is a major pain but its my only option. Remember I have no garage, this full 2yr frame off has been inside one of those driveway tents.
I thought about the tranny seperately b/c thats how I removed it 2yrs ago but with a new clutch, flywheel, engine and pilot bushing I didn't want to take the chance of misaligning anything while doing assembly in the car. I also don't have a removable tranny xmember, one thing I wish I cut and welded. Took lots of patience and elbow grease but its in and aligned perfectly.
Thanks for your comments though. When I upgrade to a 5 or 6 speed down the line I'll cut out the xmember and do a removable custom one.
I see your tent and Avitar of the ol vette parked in the snow. I'm going to do a garage addition on my house just for working on things. 16W X 32D. That way my other garage is just for parking out of the weather.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 2
From: North NJ
If you do a search on here you'll find a bunch of old threads about this conversion and what jeep you can find it in if you went to a junk yard. There are some that went this route and some that went to Corvette Steering http://www.corvettesteering.com/corvette%20parts.htm and used their kit ( i went this route) I didn't like the poor design of the steeroids brackets. I've read about the "touchy" feel of the jeep box but plan on fixing that in the future with an aftermarket KRC power steering pump with adjustable flow valve. I'm also curious as to how VBP did their R&P rack.
There are a few things I would have done differently if I could do the jeep box over, like reinforce the frame in that area and bolt the unit using the jeep bolt patern instead of using the Corvette Steering bolt adapters.
All my stuff was purchased over a year ago so we'll see how she performs soon.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 2
From: North NJ
Now for some nice cooling....
Installed a Dewitts aluminum performance radiator and Lincoln Mark VIII fan with DC control unit.
Used double sided tape to apply the AirConditioning duct foam to the radiator frame to seal against the dewitt radiator.
I had to cut off the mounting tabs on the Mark VIII fan to clear the radiator.
I then used the same air conditioning foam to seal the fan to the radiator. I did not use any adhesive. Just used the fan to pinch the foam to the radiator and sealed it all off. This will force the fan to suck the air thru the radiator instead of around it.
I fabbed up these aluminum brackets to hold the fan to the radiator support which inturn sandwhiched the radiator b/w the fan and radiator shroud as additional support.
I think it turned out awsome...
I then mounted this little Morosso recovery tank. It has the pickup on the top which has an internal tube that picks up the fluid from the bottom of the tank. This unit is vented so exess fluid will be transfered to and from the radiator to the tank.
I have the DC control unit but I need to decide how to mount and wire it up. I think the radiator/fan combo will work great and looks the business.
Used double sided tape to apply the AirConditioning duct foam to the radiator frame to seal against the dewitt radiator.
I had to cut off the mounting tabs on the Mark VIII fan to clear the radiator.
I then used the same air conditioning foam to seal the fan to the radiator. I did not use any adhesive. Just used the fan to pinch the foam to the radiator and sealed it all off. This will force the fan to suck the air thru the radiator instead of around it.
I fabbed up these aluminum brackets to hold the fan to the radiator support which inturn sandwhiched the radiator b/w the fan and radiator shroud as additional support.
I think it turned out awsome...
I then mounted this little Morosso recovery tank. It has the pickup on the top which has an internal tube that picks up the fluid from the bottom of the tank. This unit is vented so exess fluid will be transfered to and from the radiator to the tank.
I have the DC control unit but I need to decide how to mount and wire it up. I think the radiator/fan combo will work great and looks the business.