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Put your trans in reverse and adjust the switch until the reverse lights come on. Then test that they go off when not in reverse and come back on when in reverse.
When I bought my car, a previous owner had installed the bracket so the switch hung down below the trans instead of being in the corner of the cover plate. The rod from shifter linkage to switch was not long enough so they used a piece of wire (no ductape).
is there a jumper or extension harness that goes in between the connection at the firewall and down where the switch connects to the trans... Im just thinking the wiring on the switch doesn't seem long enough but maybe I am wrong...
is there a jumper or extension harness that goes in between the connection at the firewall and down where the switch connects to the trans... Im just thinking the wiring on the switch doesn't seem long enough but maybe I am wrong...
sully
There should be a couple feet of wire on the switch with the connector on the end.
is there a jumper or extension harness that goes in between the connection at the firewall and down where the switch connects to the trans... Im just thinking the wiring on the switch doesn't seem long enough but maybe I am wrong...
sully
It'll reach. Mine was from Lectric Limited and it reached.
In Dukes bottom pic it looks like the rod is connected to the leg of the switch with two holes in it. Can anyone confirm this to be correct??
The switch has an "L" shaped bracket with two legs, both have holes on them to connect the rod to. One leg has a single hole and the other leg has one large hole and one small hole.
Anyone know the difference??
Here's a better pic of the two legs of the "L".
Last edited by 68 NJConv 454; Sep 11, 2007 at 10:50 AM.
Posted this on another thread with a similar topic in case anyone is still or will be dealing with this.
Here's what I've done.
Everything works perfectly.
Shifter shifts into all gears with a little muscle. Gears are tight but will slide easier with some miles on it.
If you notice that little plate that was restricting my side to side neutral movement, i've grinded down the plate a bit to allow movement. Works great. Will decide once the trans is in the car whether or not if I need the spacer.
As you can see everything is POR-15'd. Rust is my all time enemy.
Here is the reverse light mounted. I used a meter to determine when the switch was open and closed. When the long leg was straight up the lights were off (full resistance on the meter) as the long leg was pulled towards the tailshaft of the trans the meter would read zero resistance meaning the light would come on. You have to be careful b/c as the long leg traveled to the rear of the trans it would cycle and open and close at different distances. So when you mount it you have to bend the rod connecting the reverse trans bracket so when in neutral the meter shows a reading and the lights are off, but when you put the trans in reverse the meter shows exactly zero resistance. Make sure you wiggle the reverse gear around to make sure that no matter how much you push it the switch still shows the lights coming on.
I then routed the wires using a aluminum bracket I made with a hose for protection so I could run the wires up thru the consol along the shifter and to the connection in the car. Alot easier than running it thru the firewall like the Aim shows. I am confident the wire won't interact with the shift linkage.
Yep. That's the GM I remember... All kinds of hardware and wiring just to turn on a switch! {Just as long as they keep my pension check coming, it's OK with me.}