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Think about wrapping the exhaust also, cheap fit at about $100. There was also a thread in here a while back about home made Lizard Skin to paint on the firewall, floor etc to block the heat. Make sure the water shutoff is working too.
From: Crush your enemies, see them driven before you, and hear the lamentations of the women TX
Or put a manual shutoff in the heater line.
Install the foam collar over the bellhousing to keep hot engine compartment air out of the tunnel.
Put a cover over the flower box at the base of the windshield.
Weatherstrip the rear of the hood to keep engine air out of the vent intakes on either side of the flower box.
Also, what'd your mat cost you and where from?
Also, I suspect you'll need more of it.
Also, uh..... how did you get the little E-brake plastic shield thingy off the handle? I have a new one somewhere but haven't really given it the looksee I should on how to get it on/off.
BTW. Nice mount bolt ya got there!
Last edited by Overlord; Sep 28, 2007 at 01:46 PM.
Also, check the weather stripping (seal) on the rear of your hood. If that is shot, it will allow hot air from the engine compartment to enter your vents.
E-Brake cover has four mount points but in order to get to them you must take off the Both Left and Right seat belts, Both Left and Right center panels and have time on your hands....If you rush things you might brake the cover off and the mounts *** well....For my hood weather strip it’s good but I still feel engine heat really bad. As for the mat it’s a 60”x36” and goes for $40
E-Brake cover has four mount points but in order to get to them you must take off the Both Left and Right seat belts, Both Left and Right center panels and have time on your hands....If you rush things you might brake the cover off and the mounts *** well....For my hood weather strip it’s good but I still feel engine heat really bad. As for the mat it’s a 60”x36” and goes for $40
To be sure about the hood seal, put a little grease all the way around the weather stripping and then shut the hood. If the grease doesn't transfer to the cowling top, again all the way around, hot air is leaking in. Trust me, this simple seal can put a lot of heat into the interior of your car if it isn't doing its job.
From: Crush your enemies, see them driven before you, and hear the lamentations of the women TX
Originally Posted by Joser04
E-Brake cover has four mount points but in order to get to them you must take off the Both Left and Right seat belts, Both Left and Right center panels and have time on your hands....If you rush things you might brake the cover off and the mounts *** well....For my hood weather strip it’s good but I still feel engine heat really bad. As for the mat it’s a 60”x36” and goes for $40
No, the cover is loose. I'm looking at the little 1" x8"(?) strip that goes around the E-brake handle that, when all is assembled, keeps you from looking down thru the channel of the travel of the E-brake handle, into the mechanism's little private parts. 'Twould appear to necessitate taking off the end of the handle to replace it.
Another heat source are small gaps/openings in firewall....just put a light inside your vette at night facing firewall...open hood and check from engine side....seal any areas where light shines thru...
"Cool It" Thermo Tec products are very good,btw....
No, the cover is loose. I'm looking at the little 1" x8"(?) strip that goes around the E-brake handle that, when all is assembled, keeps you from looking down thru the channel of the travel of the E-brake handle, into the mechanism's little private parts. 'Twould appear to necessitate taking off the end of the handle to replace it.
The e-brake slider has a slit on the side of the opening.
Check your catalytic converter. I had the same problem on my 79 so I pulled the carpet out and noticed a black spot on the floor under the passengers seat. I started the car and watched the cat heat up until it was red like a cherry. It was clogged and heating up the cockpit like an oven. Replaced the cat and solved the heat problem.
I had the same problem...I put a shut off valve on the input side of the heater core hose, then sealed the passenger side vent door with plumbers dope (get it at Lowe's), then used 2 inch thick styrofoam, cut to fit the passenger side vent hole tightly, sealed around the edge of the foam with dope, and now I'm nice and cool...here's where/why the engine heat gets into that vent, body/fender seals drying and falling away...
It has to get into the 90's ambient before it gets uncomfortable these days (A/C broke), so I think this is your answer
Good luck
Yeah, if you're doing the whole interior and ontop of the tranny tunnel, you'll need more of that stuff....I had bought 4 packs....and I believe I have about a 2x2 sq ft piece left over...... I haven't gotten a chance to put it on the raod yet cause i lost 1st gear in the trans and I'm waiting on some backorder gauges from autometer.....but just by banging on the floor and knocking around, i can tell you it'll be a pretty solid sounding (dead sounding) car.....