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Carb return spring on a '70

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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 09:39 PM
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Default Carb return spring on a '70

When I bought my vette, it had the carb return spring attached to the front engine hoist tang (not the drink or woman )...

Made for a very heavy and unresponsive accelerator pedal. My friend noticed it on mine and moved it to the rear bracket, so the spring is now aiming towards the firewall... Result: excellent throttle response, and much better foot-feel...However (you knew that was coming)...

The throttle return doesn't go back to idle like it used to and so it idles at 1200-1500, unless I physically move the throttle lever on the carb.

Soooo - do I need a new or correct spring? Or is it supposed to be attached to the front? Need this wrapped up by friday, when I'm off to Ocean City, MD for the big corvette meet.

Thanks - Mark

old way


new way
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 09:48 PM
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The 2nd pic is correct
You need a stronger spring
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Onit
The 2nd pic is correct
You need a stronger spring

, second pic is correct, and not only do you need a slightly stronger spring you need a second spring. You want a large diameter spring with a small diameter spring inside it, both hooked to the same places.
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Onit
The 2nd pic is correct
You need a stronger spring
Yes, I also agree, but you do need the double spring. You can find nice chrome ones at your local parts store!
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 09:02 AM
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No - you don't need a stronger spring. If the carb does not return to idle when the spring pulls aft, but does return to idle when the spring pulls forward, it means your carb needs a throttle shaft bushing. What is happening is that the spring is "cocking" the throttle slightly by pulling back, and this is slightly jamming the throttle blades in the throttle bores to prevent a consistent return-to-idle. I can put a bushing in for you if you need it (and it sounds like you do).
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by lars
No - you don't need a stronger spring. If the carb does not return to idle when the spring pulls aft, but does return to idle when the spring pulls forward, it means your carb needs a throttle shaft bushing.
That would be correct if that is the stock spring and it has not been stretched from being hooked up backwards.
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 10:52 AM
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When I said stronger spring I meant it only because his current spring looks stretched and weak.

Note: Having the spring hooked up like pic two will wear a shaft bushing very quickly. Having it like in pic one will even the load, or even the forces acting upon that bushing.

Edit: Changed to reflect new information contradicting what GM engineer told me.

Last edited by Durango_Boy; Oct 8, 2007 at 12:32 PM.
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Note: Having the spring hooked up like pic one will wear a shaft bushing very quickly. Having it like in pic two will even the load, or even the forces acting upon that bushing.
Interesting! From a pure mechanical standpoint, it would seem the opposite would be true.

Lars, care to shed some light on this?
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 11:46 AM
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It's the angle of the spring in relation to the throttle shaft.
If it's not a straight line pull it would seem likely that it would put some side load on the shaft bushings
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 11:49 AM
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Assume it IS a straight line pull....
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by pws69
Assume it IS a straight line pull....
Pic 2 is a straight line
Pic 1 appears to pull to the drivers side
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Onit
Pic 2 is a straight line
Pic 1 appears to pull to the drivers side
Yes, I agree that picture 1 is NOT a straight line pull as you state.

What I am asking Lars for his opinion on is which configuration would be less conducive to bushing wear

- straight pull toward the rear of the carb - same direction as the cable
or
- straight pull toward the front of the carb - opposite direction of the cable.

I have seen both configurations. In fact, the little tab on the thermostat housing just above the spring in PICTURE 1 IS for a return spring on one of the configurations - perhaps a BB Tri, but I don't remember the exact config right now.
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by pws69
Yes, I agree that picture 1 is NOT a straight line pull as you state.

What I am asking Lars for his opinion on is which configuration would be less conducive to bushing wear

- straight pull toward the rear of the carb - same direction as the cable
or
- straight pull toward the front of the carb - opposite direction of the cable.
Gotcha! Thats a good question.
I'll take a guess and say that it doesn't make a difference.
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Onit
That would be correct if that is the stock spring and it has not been stretched from being hooked up backwards.
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
When I said stronger spring I meant it only because his current spring looks stretched and weak.
A Q-Jet, when in good condition, doesn't need a return spring at all to return to idle - it should return to idle even with the spring completely removed. Any spring force at all will assure a firm return to idle, no matter how weak (this is not a suggestion to remove the return spring - you need the spring there for safety and consistency).

Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Having the spring hooked up like pic one will wear a shaft bushing very quickly. Having it like in pic two will even the load, or even the forces acting upon that bushing.
\

When both the throttle cable and the spring pull in the same direction (back) as the factory setup, the shaft wear is the most severe, and shaft binding starts to occur once the wear starts. The forces on the shaft are minimized by hooking up the spring pulling forward and the cable pulling back, and this will eliminate or minimize the shaft cocking from the wear.
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by lars
When both the throttle cable and the spring pull in the same direction (back) as the factory setup, the shaft wear is the most severe, and shaft binding starts to occur once the wear starts.

So factory setup is the worse of the two ways for that bushing? Wow, if you can't trust a GM engineer who can you trust.
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 12:30 PM
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Lars

Thanks for clearing that up.
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
So factory setup is the worse of the two ways for that bushing? Wow, if you can't trust a GM engineer who can you trust.
Correct. With the factory setup, the cable on top and the spring on the bottom use the soft alloy housing as a fulcrum to pull against each other. A spring on the front on top only acts against the cable. However, in picture one, the downward angle would apply som load to the base of the shaft housing. Don't be too hard on the GM guys, as Ford and Mopar did the same thing!

Most of the original carbs with any significant mileage need to have bushings installed in the primary side of the throttle shaft housing, i.e. the base. Finding someone with the tooling and expertise is the problem, but it looks like we have that person among us, eh Lars?

Easy to check these. With the engine off, grab a hold of the throttle linkage, give it about a quarter throttle, then look for movement as you wiggle it around. You would be amazed how bad the base can get and still work somewhat. I does cause the throttle to hang and affects the mixture (vacuum leak) when it gets real worn.

Hans
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 09:56 PM
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Lars - actually, you rebuilt this carb for me last year. I tend to think the spring I have is stretched, since the way it had been hooked up was stretched 3/4" longer at "rest" than the rear configuration. I ordered a new spring from Zip and should get it in a day or two. Will post an update then. Interesting comments here
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeMc71
Yes, I also agree, but you do need the double spring. You can find nice chrome ones at your local parts store!

The reason they came oem with 2 springs was for safety, in case 1 broke.
Get an inner outer, no need to order, any parts store has them.
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by noonie

The reason they came oem with 2 springs was for safety, in case 1 broke.
Get an inner outer, no need to order, any parts store has them.

I've thought about putting on a backup spring, but the factory didn't start doing that until '74, I think. 70-72 share the same size spring, while '73 was a one-only year for some reason, then they went to the double spring setup in '74.
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