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Another tip for you guys. I put in the dynomat insulation on the inside of my door (not on the skin but on the metal frame just inside the panel) and it makes a big difference on how the door feels when I shut it. It feels a little more solid. I imagine if I had also put the insulation on the inside of the actual skin (like Norval did) it would be even better.
I think all that happens here is the bushing inside the metal roller sleeve(bearing) wears out...the 78 lasted 27 years on the drivers side...and it wore out before the passenger side did...
Good idea to lube them with lithium white grease...
I have to order a set of pins and bushings for the hinges...I'll do the strikers too. I checked last night, and the driver's striker is about as loose as they get. The passenger side was off center but not loose.
It's odd, my passenger door is a bit high compared to the rear fender, and the driver's door is low. I may have to shim the passenger side body mount and bring the fender up since the door operates perfectly.
I have to order a set of pins and bushings for the hinges...I'll do the strikers too. I checked last night, and the driver's striker is about as loose as they get. The passenger side was off center but not loose.
It's odd, my passenger door is a bit high compared to the rear fender, and the driver's door is low. I may have to shim the passenger side body mount and bring the fender up since the door operates perfectly.
One good check is to open door slowly and if it drops down slightly,that involves hinges/pins....
Just ordered some new strikers and washers from Eckler's for both sides. Thanks for the info guys, my doors have been shutting like crap for years and couldn't figure it out. The bushings were extremely sloppy.
Check your hinge pins as well. Lift up on the door to see if it has play. You may need replace the pins and bushings before you start screwing with the latch.
FYI.....my strikers had worn out sleeves....and I replaced with an striker that has no roller sleeve. I think the doors shut just fine, with very little effort....but again, I have not tried new strikers with new sleeves either. I am very worried about micro RUST being ejected from the open hole while changing strikers.....so I probably won't try the sleeved ones anytime soon.
I wonder if there is an interchange with those strikers and any other GM cars or trucks. The ones I have found are $15 each for new ones and I think I would be able to get them for a buck or two out of a salvage yard if they are in good shape.
Anyone know the thread size and shaft diameter? I don't have a good mic to check.