Weight loss plan
- Composite rear spring
- Front composite transverse spring with lower A-arms
- Aluminum water pump
- light weight starter
What else can be done to shave some weight? The block will have to stay iron.
Thanks,
Scott
- Composite rear spring
- Front composite transverse spring with lower A-arms
- Aluminum water pump
- light weight starter
What else can be done to shave some weight? The block will have to stay iron.
Thanks,
Scott
Here you go...
tubular upper a-arms
lightweight (willwood calipers) brakes
engine alu heads, pumps and intake
No A/C+ancillaries
No heater+ancillaries
no front and rear steel defends
aftermarket hood
fixed lights
lightweight seat (with alu support)
new lighter full interior (ecklers)
lexan windshield
no wipers, no motor
no power windows+no windows
gutted doors
gutted t-tops
race battery
lighter forged wheels+biasply (hoosier) tires
alu radiator
custom alu front end support
custom rad support
round tube crossmember
no e-brake
lighter side exhaust (not the hooker style sidepipes though)
lightweight rotors and alu hats
carbon or alu driveshaft
carbon halfshafts
fuel cell
Last edited by panic; Dec 31, 2007 at 12:14 PM.
Also, remove the spare tire and install an alum exhaust. Rear spring and alum engine parts are typical lightning techniques.
There is also a good amount of weight from the front end steel defense to dump...together with the rear end 55lbs.
So both ends will re-equilize their weights.
Under these conditions, surely it won't be a steel defense that will save your life...on my opinion this abundancy of death weight is part of the problem.
When i had my '77 in stock form i risked more then once to end up in a barn dumped together with my car...since i've uprated the whole car sistem and took more then 800lbs of weight out of her it seems to drive all another car and even taking my risks at every bend i've never found myself again in extreme difficulties as before.
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- Composite rear spring
- Front composite transverse spring with lower A-arms
- Aluminum water pump
- light weight starter
What else can be done to shave some weight? The block will have to stay iron.
Thanks,
Scott
i have a few bits to do (...lightweight rear rotors and alu hats and dump the e-brake, among a few bits here and there)...then i'll put my '77 on the port scale again... i should be around 2.740/2.750lbs...There will be a nice mod to the exhaust as well...
By the way, i still have the alu flywheels to fix
Last edited by panic; Dec 31, 2007 at 05:26 PM.
1) Tranny swap to 4-speed and aluminum flywheel (was TH-400)...70 lbs
2) 72 Passenger doors instead of 73's...28 lbs (documented)
3) Aluminum heads...65
4) Alum intake...15
5) Headers and Super Turbo mufflers (factory mufflers are heavy)...20
6) Alum Water pump...5
7) Mini-starter...10
8) Evap system removal...10
9) AIR system removal...20
10) YJ8 aluminum wheels...30
11) Spare tire and jack removal (spare tire replaced with large black exercise ball to keep the tub quiet)...55
12) Rear composite leaf spring...30
13) Aluminum radiator...10
These cars are heavy from the factory and the above really helps with mileage (if you care), handling, braking, and of course, acceleration,..a win-win-win-win. Of course your folding money is bit lighter as well,..
Last edited by 73, Dark Blue 454; Dec 31, 2007 at 10:47 PM.

mmm don't know... maybe you're a magician??
Last edited by panic; Jan 1, 2008 at 12:49 AM.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1896222.
I had already lost 45lbs with the front bumper battering ram removal:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1510906
My Wilwood brake calipers were worth 44lbs of unsprung weight:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1494578
Other things I've done:
Mini gear driven starter: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1455628
fiberglass rear spring
aluminum heads
AC compressor removal
Air pump removal
Headers w/flowmaster mufflers
aluminum water pump
tubular transmission crossmember for my 700r4: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1726659
Spare tire removal
And a few other odds and ends I can't think of right now. I weighed the car yesterday with hardly any gas in it, and with the heavier glass t-tops, and it's at 3260 lbs. My goal is 3200lbs/450 horsepower. Not bad for a fatass '79 huh? Someday I will mount my aluminum batwing in place of the iron rear end crossmember.
You will get a lot of safety flack about the heavy bumpers and door gaurds removal. I drive a 1500HD GMC Crew Cab with air bags for a daily driver and when I want to be safe and for transporting precious cargo such as the grandkids. But sometimes I want to have a ton of fun with my clothes on
. There are a few of us on this forum that are dedicated to weight loss that drive on the street. Panic is our leader.
Last edited by Bee Jay; Jan 1, 2008 at 11:08 AM.
Ref trans crossmember, i really would like one of those tubular ones from bowtie but i think they only build them for auto trans, am i right? did any of you ever modded one to fit a 4 speeds trans?
Aluminum everywhere!
Alum radiator
Alum heads
Alum water pump
Alum intake
Alum upper A-arms
Fiberglass rear spring
Going to do that rear bumper mod
Lots of factory junk removed
Small batt
Headers
new exhaust minus the cats
May do an after-market hood (more for under hood clearance than weight)
Let's see...did I miss anything?
I think I loss less than 10lbs doing this, but it really opened up the passenger side engine bay. Maybe weight loss is the wrong topic for this. Maybe I'll start another thread.
Bee Jay





headers - improved exhaust flow
alum radiator - increased cooling capacity
lightweight flywheel (preferably SFI rated) - reduces driveline rotating inertia
lightweight wheels - reduces unsprung weight & axle rotating inertia
Of course, if you're bucks up a Dart Big M alum block would make a tremendous difference in both total weight as well as F/R weight distribution. BTW, the alum BB heads are worth about 75# vs. iron. ...and we are correct to assume you have an alum intake, right?
Should you want a stronger bellhousing, but not wish to carry the >30# penalty of a true scattershield, you might want to check out Keisler's titanium/aluminum bell at only 12# (just 4# over stock).
Bee Jay, their site still says coming soon for the Y body piece. Like you, I'm wondering if it's ever going to arrive...
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Jan 2, 2008 at 08:41 PM.
headers - improved exhaust flow
alum radiator - increased cooling capacity
lightweight flywheel (preferably SFI rated) - reduces driveline rotating inertia
lightweight wheels - reduces unsprung weight & axle rotating inertia
Of course, if you're bucks up a Dart Big M alum block would make a tremendous difference in both total weight as well as F/R weight distribution. BTW, the alum BB heads are worth about 75# vs. iron. ...and we are correct to assume you have an alum intake, right?
Should you want a stronger bellhousing, but not wish to carry the >30# penalty of a true scattershield, you might want to check out Keisler's titanium/aluminum bell at only 12# (just 4# over stock).
Bee Jay, their site still says coming soon for the Y body piece. Like you, I'm wondering if it's ever going to arrive...














