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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 11:49 AM
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Default Weight loss plan

My 68 roadster is going on a New Years weight loss program. I have an aluminum headed big block. I want to maintain outer stock appearance where possible. I plan or have done the following:
  • Composite rear spring
  • Front composite transverse spring with lower A-arms
  • Aluminum water pump
  • light weight starter

What else can be done to shave some weight? The block will have to stay iron.
Thanks,
Scott
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by howarsc
My 68 roadster is going on a New Years weight loss program. I have an aluminum headed big block. I want to maintain outer stock appearance where possible. I plan or have done the following:
  • Composite rear spring
  • Front composite transverse spring with lower A-arms
  • Aluminum water pump
  • light weight starter

What else can be done to shave some weight? The block will have to stay iron.
Thanks,
Scott

Here you go...

tubular upper a-arms
lightweight (willwood calipers) brakes
engine alu heads, pumps and intake
No A/C+ancillaries
No heater+ancillaries
no front and rear steel defends
aftermarket hood
fixed lights
lightweight seat (with alu support)
new lighter full interior (ecklers)
lexan windshield
no wipers, no motor
no power windows+no windows
gutted doors
gutted t-tops
race battery
lighter forged wheels+biasply (hoosier) tires
alu radiator
custom alu front end support
custom rad support
round tube crossmember
no e-brake
lighter side exhaust (not the hooker style sidepipes though)
lightweight rotors and alu hats
carbon or alu driveshaft
carbon halfshafts
fuel cell


Last edited by panic; Dec 31, 2007 at 12:14 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 02:04 PM
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Thanks! I think that may at least give me some ideas.
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 02:54 PM
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There is a nice thread around here to loose 55 pounds by removing the rear bumper innards. Of course this will only exacerbate the nose heavy tendency of the Vette.
Also, remove the spare tire and install an alum exhaust. Rear spring and alum engine parts are typical lightning techniques.
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 03:08 PM
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[QUOTE=VIPERBARON;1563405657]There is a nice thread around here to loose 55 pounds by removing the rear bumper innards. Of course this will only exacerbate the nose heavy tendency of the Vette.


There is also a good amount of weight from the front end steel defense to dump...together with the rear end 55lbs.

So both ends will re-equilize their weights.
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by VIPERBARON
There is a nice thread around here to loose 55 pounds by removing the rear bumper innards. Of course this will only exacerbate the nose heavy tendency of the Vette.
Maybe I'm missing something, but doesn't this seem like a bad idea? C3's aren't exactly the safest things on the road...
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by yel76low
Maybe I'm missing something, but doesn't this seem like a bad idea? C3's aren't exactly the safest things on the road...
They arent because, in stock form, C3's, specially later models, are far too heavy and their suspensions set up is not properly geared for sharp handling, plus its braking ability is not the best.

Under these conditions, surely it won't be a steel defense that will save your life...on my opinion this abundancy of death weight is part of the problem.

When i had my '77 in stock form i risked more then once to end up in a barn dumped together with my car...since i've uprated the whole car sistem and took more then 800lbs of weight out of her it seems to drive all another car and even taking my risks at every bend i've never found myself again in extreme difficulties as before.
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 04:52 PM
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Hey Panic, I need to send over some hole saws and you can start to swiss cheese all the brackets and non strucural metal.
You have some serious weight loss program there.
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by howarsc
My 68 roadster is going on a New Years weight loss program. I have an aluminum headed big block. I want to maintain outer stock appearance where possible. I plan or have done the following:
  • Composite rear spring
  • Front composite transverse spring with lower A-arms
  • Aluminum water pump
  • light weight starter

What else can be done to shave some weight? The block will have to stay iron.
Thanks,
Scott
I did the same things on my '69. Consider the L-88 flywheel. Fifteen pounds lighter, and the throttle response is fantastic. Also, don't put any bigger battery in there than you need. It's lead ballast, literally and figuratively. How about headers versus the cast iron exhaust manifolds? Aluminum wheels versus steel ralleys. Wilwood calipers and rotors. That's unsprung weight.
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 05:23 PM
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As soon as i'll be able to drive again i have a few bits to do (...lightweight rear rotors and alu hats and dump the e-brake, among a few bits here and there)...then i'll put my '77 on the port scale again... i should be around 2.740/2.750lbs...

There will be a nice mod to the exhaust as well...

By the way, i still have the alu flywheels to fix

Last edited by panic; Dec 31, 2007 at 05:26 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 09:16 PM
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Now Panic, how did I know that you were going to be the first one to respond to a weight saving thread? Seriously though, I have to look into the plexi windows thing. I'm interested. Good show!
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 10:43 PM
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On a 73, I lost over 350 lbs (about 10%) without too much impact or effort. Most of the weight totals are estimates unless stated otherwise (correct me if I've misfigured):

1) Tranny swap to 4-speed and aluminum flywheel (was TH-400)...70 lbs
2) 72 Passenger doors instead of 73's...28 lbs (documented)
3) Aluminum heads...65
4) Alum intake...15
5) Headers and Super Turbo mufflers (factory mufflers are heavy)...20
6) Alum Water pump...5
7) Mini-starter...10
8) Evap system removal...10
9) AIR system removal...20
10) YJ8 aluminum wheels...30
11) Spare tire and jack removal (spare tire replaced with large black exercise ball to keep the tub quiet)...55
12) Rear composite leaf spring...30
13) Aluminum radiator...10

These cars are heavy from the factory and the above really helps with mileage (if you care), handling, braking, and of course, acceleration,..a win-win-win-win. Of course your folding money is bit lighter as well,..

Last edited by 73, Dark Blue 454; Dec 31, 2007 at 10:47 PM.
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 12:39 AM
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[QUOTE=strokervette;1563410917]Now Panic, how did I know that you were going to be the first one to respond to a weight saving thread?



mmm don't know... maybe you're a magician??



Last edited by panic; Jan 1, 2008 at 12:49 AM.
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 10:20 AM
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I just completed the rear battering ram removal for 55lbs:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1896222.
I had already lost 45lbs with the front bumper battering ram removal:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1510906
My Wilwood brake calipers were worth 44lbs of unsprung weight:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1494578
Other things I've done:
Mini gear driven starter: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1455628
fiberglass rear spring
aluminum heads
AC compressor removal
Air pump removal
Headers w/flowmaster mufflers
aluminum water pump
tubular transmission crossmember for my 700r4: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1726659
Spare tire removal
And a few other odds and ends I can't think of right now. I weighed the car yesterday with hardly any gas in it, and with the heavier glass t-tops, and it's at 3260 lbs. My goal is 3200lbs/450 horsepower. Not bad for a fatass '79 huh? Someday I will mount my aluminum batwing in place of the iron rear end crossmember.
You will get a lot of safety flack about the heavy bumpers and door gaurds removal. I drive a 1500HD GMC Crew Cab with air bags for a daily driver and when I want to be safe and for transporting precious cargo such as the grandkids. But sometimes I want to have a ton of fun with my clothes on. There are a few of us on this forum that are dedicated to weight loss that drive on the street. Panic is our leader.

Last edited by Bee Jay; Jan 1, 2008 at 11:08 AM.
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 03:23 PM
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You're definitely on the right path BJ, i'm sure you can go well below 3.200lbs...

Ref trans crossmember, i really would like one of those tubular ones from bowtie but i think they only build them for auto trans, am i right? did any of you ever modded one to fit a 4 speeds trans?
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 03:57 PM
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I'm working on a frame-off rebuild of my '80. Vehicle weight reduction is an ongoing effort.
Aluminum everywhere!
Alum radiator
Alum heads
Alum water pump
Alum intake
Alum upper A-arms
Fiberglass rear spring
Going to do that rear bumper mod
Lots of factory junk removed
Small batt
Headers
new exhaust minus the cats
May do an after-market hood (more for under hood clearance than weight)
Let's see...did I miss anything?
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 07:00 PM
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I got motivated this week and removed the rest of my AC stuff. Now I have this ugly hole on my firewall, but wonderful room on the right side of the engine. I'm putting the fan motor back in because I need heat and defroster. Anyone other than acdelete.com that makes plates to cover this mess up. They don't seem to have one for the Corvette. Anyone make a custom cover that keeps the heater/defroster and fan motor functional?
I think I loss less than 10lbs doing this, but it really opened up the passenger side engine bay. Maybe weight loss is the wrong topic for this. Maybe I'll start another thread.
Bee Jay
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 08:33 PM
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However far you wish to take this, I'd suggest the following items definitely make your initial weight loss program, regardless, as these have bonus benefits beyond their static weight savings without breaking the bank or significantly altering the appearance or functionality of your shark:

headers - improved exhaust flow
alum radiator - increased cooling capacity
lightweight flywheel (preferably SFI rated) - reduces driveline rotating inertia
lightweight wheels - reduces unsprung weight & axle rotating inertia

Of course, if you're bucks up a Dart Big M alum block would make a tremendous difference in both total weight as well as F/R weight distribution. BTW, the alum BB heads are worth about 75# vs. iron. ...and we are correct to assume you have an alum intake, right?

Should you want a stronger bellhousing, but not wish to carry the >30# penalty of a true scattershield, you might want to check out Keisler's titanium/aluminum bell at only 12# (just 4# over stock).


Bee Jay, their site still says coming soon for the Y body piece. Like you, I'm wondering if it's ever going to arrive...


Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Jan 2, 2008 at 08:41 PM.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 08:48 PM
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I have light weight headers and an aluminum flywheel. Good stuff.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
However far you wish to take this, I'd suggest the following items definitely make your initial weight loss program, regardless, as these have bonus benefits beyond their static weight savings without breaking the bank or significantly altering the appearance or functionality of your shark:

headers - improved exhaust flow
alum radiator - increased cooling capacity
lightweight flywheel (preferably SFI rated) - reduces driveline rotating inertia
lightweight wheels - reduces unsprung weight & axle rotating inertia

Of course, if you're bucks up a Dart Big M alum block would make a tremendous difference in both total weight as well as F/R weight distribution. BTW, the alum BB heads are worth about 75# vs. iron. ...and we are correct to assume you have an alum intake, right?

Should you want a stronger bellhousing, but not wish to carry the >30# penalty of a true scattershield, you might want to check out Keisler's titanium/aluminum bell at only 12# (just 4# over stock).


Bee Jay, their site still says coming soon for the Y body piece. Like you, I'm wondering if it's ever going to arrive...

Thanks! I have a tripower aluminum intake and ported procomp aluminum heads. The bell housing will be looked into. The lakewood is a slug.
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