LM-1 users: Question
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 103
Likes: 8
From: Cataumet MA
LM-1 users: Question
I used to think that I did a pretty good job of setting up my carburetors. However, after reading some of the posts on this forum, it seems as though I am in the Stone Age concerning my carb set-up. You all have convinced me that the LM-1 wideband is the way to go if I am interested in getting the best performance out of my Holley Double Pumpers. My question is; do I need the RPM conversion with the kit, or can I do everything that I need to with the base kit? It's a 1973 C3 with a ZZ454 and TKO 600 trans. I have changed out the cam, done some port matching and am using a single plane TM-1 intake. The carb will be an 850 Holley DP with a NASCAR body and new billet throttle plate.
Thanks for any input!
Thanks for any input!
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,672
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From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I would not buy it with the RPM adapter, when you get it up and running you will see why, you need to see at what RPM things are happening 
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: North Bend Ohio
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,672
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From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 103
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From: Cataumet MA
Thanks again for your input.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Kingston Ontario
Following link provided from a knowledgeable member. Worthwhile to PM him for further info. My $0.02(Cdn.) 
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...highlight=tune
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...highlight=tune
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I have not bought it yet, and really don't know exactly how it operates, but I assume that when you are running it, you will get the A/F readout. Why not just note the RPM from your tach at that particular readout, and then adjust your carb accordingly? Would that work?
Thanks again for your input.
Thanks again for your input.
If you are thinking of making mental notes of RPM and monitoring the LM-1 at the same time you are driving, think again it won't work that way. Only about one thing you can do that way is switch the LM-1 on to record the same time you WOT or at a constant cruise and then shut it off when you get off the gas. This will give you a graph of WOT and cruise but it gets confusing believe me I have been using this device for a few years now. You need to see what is going on at other RPM's
Go ahead and buy the LM-1 unit by itself, it is just going to cost you extra shipping charges when you see what I mean
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Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 231
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From: Simpsonville SC
I'm going to install Dynojet Wideband commander on my 78 this week.
http://www.widebandcommander.com/
It inculdes an RPM input as well as previsions for MAP and TPS inputs. I report back on how it worked.
http://www.widebandcommander.com/
It inculdes an RPM input as well as previsions for MAP and TPS inputs. I report back on how it worked.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,114
Likes: 33
From: ct
We bought a wideband and also bought the setup to just stick the sensor into the tail pipes or side pipes. This way we could use it on any car any time. Saved me alot of headache when we where tuning my webers. My carb guy is the best tuner around here and he is very old school. But he loves this setup. We can drive the car and just read live info. Best money you can spend.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Cataumet MA
So you will get a A/F graph which will be A/F vs time. So how are you going to tell what RPM you are looking at when you look at this graph. The idea is to tune the carb for idle, cruise and WOT which is near impossible without the RPM converter.
If you are thinking of making mental notes of RPM and monitoring the LM-1 at the same time you are driving, think again it won't work that way. Only about one thing you can do that way is switch the LM-1 on to record the same time you WOT or at a constant cruise and then shut it off when you get off the gas. This will give you a graph of WOT and cruise but it gets confusing believe me I have been using this device for a few years now. You need to see what is going on at other RPM's
Go ahead and buy the LM-1 unit by itself, it is just going to cost you extra shipping charges when you see what I mean
If you are thinking of making mental notes of RPM and monitoring the LM-1 at the same time you are driving, think again it won't work that way. Only about one thing you can do that way is switch the LM-1 on to record the same time you WOT or at a constant cruise and then shut it off when you get off the gas. This will give you a graph of WOT and cruise but it gets confusing believe me I have been using this device for a few years now. You need to see what is going on at other RPM's
Go ahead and buy the LM-1 unit by itself, it is just going to cost you extra shipping charges when you see what I mean
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
The RPM Kit ($429) is comprised of the basic kit plus the LMA-2 (RPM Converter.) This cable contains a circuit to convert a tach signal into an analog RPM signal that can be logged by the LM-1. This cable also has 4 additional terminal screws to tap into and log other 0-5 V analog sensors from your vehicle.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,672
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From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Thou art forgiven 
The LC-1 is not really a stand alone unit you need a data logger and / or gauge to go with it. The LM-1 has a built in data logger and can record an hour or so of data and it also has a digital readout making it a stand alone unit
The LC-1 is not really a stand alone unit you need a data logger and / or gauge to go with it. The LM-1 has a built in data logger and can record an hour or so of data and it also has a digital readout making it a stand alone unit
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 103
Likes: 8
From: Cataumet MA
The RPM Kit ($429) is comprised of the basic kit plus the LMA-2 (RPM Converter.) This cable contains a circuit to convert a tach signal into an analog RPM signal that can be logged by the LM-1. This cable also has 4 additional terminal screws to tap into and log other 0-5 V analog sensors from your vehicle.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 103
Likes: 8
From: Cataumet MA
I am using a Mallory Unilite distributor, no points. Will it work with that, or do I have to buy an inductive pickup separate from the LM-1 unit with the RPM conversion? There is no electrical tach connection on the Mallory, just the mechanical tach connection.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 1
From: AL
sorry to post so late . . . sounds like an inductive pickup is the way to go. but, the best thing is ask the folks at innovate, they very likely know for sure. i just wanted to give you a heads up in case you had the type i do know about . . .
good luck - you will be happy with this tool!!!
good luck - you will be happy with this tool!!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 8,897
Likes: 1,353
From: Santa Ana CA
Not to highjack the thread, but maybe someone here can answer a simple question about the LM-1. They don't respond to the question at their web site.
How sensitive is the unit to electrical interference? I run a Mallory CD box, solid core plug wires, non-resistor plugs, and only some of the ignition shielding.
I have a Vericom G-analyzer and it will not work in the car, even on its own 12 volt battery source. There is just too much electrical noise and the unit goes haywire. I'm wondering if an LM-1 would do the same. Like I said, they don't respond to the question one way or the other at their web site.
Anyone???
How sensitive is the unit to electrical interference? I run a Mallory CD box, solid core plug wires, non-resistor plugs, and only some of the ignition shielding.
I have a Vericom G-analyzer and it will not work in the car, even on its own 12 volt battery source. There is just too much electrical noise and the unit goes haywire. I'm wondering if an LM-1 would do the same. Like I said, they don't respond to the question one way or the other at their web site.
Anyone???