??'s BFG R1's
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Formerly from the Great White North but now residing in the Desert Southwest NM (The Land of Dis-Enchantment?)
??'s BFG R1's
First question...anyone running BFG R1's for Autocross/track lapping?
Second questiion...What's your opinion of performance/wear over Kumho 710's, Hoosier R6's, A6's, and Nitto 01"s?
Second questiion...What's your opinion of performance/wear over Kumho 710's, Hoosier R6's, A6's, and Nitto 01"s?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,478
Likes: 4
From: Formerly from the Great White North but now residing in the Desert Southwest NM (The Land of Dis-Enchantment?)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,247
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From: Detroit MI
Jack, although I have no experience with the new R1's, and haven't seen anyone using them at autocrosses, my understanding is that they are more of a track tire along the lines of the R6. I would expect in autocrosses that they would not be as competitive as an A6 or V710 would be. GRM magazine tested them in the November 07 issue, and they were about three-tenths behind the Kumho and Hoosier in autocross testing. As expected, they faired better when tested on an "open track" (nearly the course as the autocross but simplified a bit, and run for ten consecutive laps) when they had more heat in them, but still finished third to the Kumho and Hoosier (A6) respectively.
Last edited by 69autoXr; Jan 6, 2008 at 10:27 PM.
Team Owner
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I just bought 6 hoosier slicks for my rears for $550 delivered,. They are once used scuff tires with 95% tread. They are 27X11X15
I would just buy some cheap wheels and slicks for your events. Slicks have so much more traction than treaded tires.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
I prefer real slicks, What size rims are you going to be using? I have used The 710's, for a lapping weekend. Most people get about 7-10 events out of a set in mildly modded cars. I'm talking about 20 - 30 minute run groups.
I just bought 6 hoosier slicks for my rears for $550 delivered,. They are once used scuff tires with 95% tread. They are 27X11X15
I would just buy some cheap wheels and slicks for your events. Slicks have so much more traction than treaded tires.
I just bought 6 hoosier slicks for my rears for $550 delivered,. They are once used scuff tires with 95% tread. They are 27X11X15
I would just buy some cheap wheels and slicks for your events. Slicks have so much more traction than treaded tires.
If memory serves me correctly, I believe he's looking at 9.5x17's and 11x17's.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
The tire rack has some close out prices for about $200 each. I'm getting these knockoff slicks for $75 each plus shipping
Last edited by gkull; Jan 7, 2008 at 08:38 AM.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,478
Likes: 4
From: Formerly from the Great White North but now residing in the Desert Southwest NM (The Land of Dis-Enchantment?)
Jack, although I have no experience with the new R1's, and haven't seen anyone using them at autocrosses, my understanding is that they are more of a track tire along the lines of the R6. I would expect in autocrosses that they would not be as competitive as an A6 or V710 would be. GRM magazine tested them in the November 07 issue, and they were about three-tenths behind the Kumho and Hoosier in autocross testing. As expected, they faired better when tested on an "open track" (nearly the course as the autocross but simplified a bit, and run for ten consecutive laps) when they had more heat in them, but still finished third to the Kumho and Hoosier (A6) respectively.
Here's my problem, Two of the courses we run autocrosses on early in the year are airports with very rough concrete. Last year with both me and my girlfriend racing, we corded a set of A6's in one weekend. This gets expensive. Kumho's in the sizes I need aren't going to be available until sometime in march and their new compound is supposed to be more like A6's. This leaves me with either R6's or BFG's and I so I'm looking for some advice and/or experience on them.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,478
Likes: 4
From: Formerly from the Great White North but now residing in the Desert Southwest NM (The Land of Dis-Enchantment?)
I prefer real slicks, What size rims are you going to be using? I have used The 710's, for a lapping weekend. Most people get about 7-10 events out of a set in mildly modded cars. I'm talking about 20 - 30 minute run groups.
I just bought 6 hoosier slicks for my rears for $550 delivered,. They are once used scuff tires with 95% tread. They are 27X11X15
I would just buy some cheap wheels and slicks for your events. Slicks have so much more traction than treaded tires.
I just bought 6 hoosier slicks for my rears for $550 delivered,. They are once used scuff tires with 95% tread. They are 27X11X15
I would just buy some cheap wheels and slicks for your events. Slicks have so much more traction than treaded tires.
I'm running 9.5x17 fronts 11x17 rears. Tire diameters are approx 25.5. I wanted to go to Kumho's this year but they are re compounding and won't be available until March.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Formerly from the Great White North but now residing in the Desert Southwest NM (The Land of Dis-Enchantment?)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Detroit MI
Chris,
Here's my problem, Two of the courses we run autocrosses on early in the year are airports with very rough concrete. Last year with both me and my girlfriend racing, we corded a set of A6's in one weekend. This gets expensive. Kumho's in the sizes I need aren't going to be available until sometime in march and their new compound is supposed to be more like A6's. This leaves me with either R6's or BFG's and I so I'm looking for some advice and/or experience on them.
Here's my problem, Two of the courses we run autocrosses on early in the year are airports with very rough concrete. Last year with both me and my girlfriend racing, we corded a set of A6's in one weekend. This gets expensive. Kumho's in the sizes I need aren't going to be available until sometime in march and their new compound is supposed to be more like A6's. This leaves me with either R6's or BFG's and I so I'm looking for some advice and/or experience on them.
Assuming you corded the outside of your fronts; how much camber are you running? I ran a 12-event weekend (27 runs total) at Grissom in Indiana in October on my half-worn A6's-Grissom is very rough concrete as well-an then the tires corded at the next event. If I had been smarter about flipping my tires I'd probably still have some life left on them. My point is, I have experienced very good wear out of the two sets of A6's that I've had, with over 100 runs on boths sets. I run about -2.5 degrees in front and -2 rear.
The only two times I've autocrossed on my R6's it was awful. Two drivers would help your situation however.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,478
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From: Formerly from the Great White North but now residing in the Desert Southwest NM (The Land of Dis-Enchantment?)
Assuming you corded the outside of your fronts; how much camber are you running? I ran a 12-event weekend (27 runs total) at Grissom in Indiana in October on my half-worn A6's-Grissom is very rough concrete as well-an then the tires corded at the next event. If I had been smarter about flipping my tires I'd probably still have some life left on them. My point is, I have experienced very good wear out of the two sets of A6's that I've had, with over 100 runs on boths sets. I run about -2.5 degrees in front and -2 rear.
The only two times I've autocrossed on my R6's it was awful. Two drivers would help your situation however.
The only two times I've autocrossed on my R6's it was awful. Two drivers would help your situation however.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Camber before winter mods was -2.0 front, -1.5 rear. We corded the inside of the right front. Combined, we did about 30 runs that weekend on a 1.1 mile course that was run counter clockwise. Rechecked alignment after the event and it was right on. Tire Pyrometer didn't work and with the constant driver switching we had to do it was difficult to do anything but change seat positions and belts. Maybe I had a bad tire to begin with, just a little leary of the A6's.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Formerly from the Great White North but now residing in the Desert Southwest NM (The Land of Dis-Enchantment?)
Yes, we were toed out about 1/8" total. There were a lot of transitions on the course and I hadn't done anything with bumpsteer, something I'm addressing this month. It just seems that our settings weren't excessive to cord a tire in one weekend.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I use less than 1 degree neg camber because I have destroyed the inside before. I went into the pits last year after a wild spin off the road to cool bleed my brakes. I had not only flat spots but had corded the inside of both my front tires. The marginal gain in cornering speed is probably negated under straight line braking where it has nearly all the weight on the inside of the front tires. I had 5/16 tread depth on the ouside and cords on the inside.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,247
Likes: 210
From: Detroit MI
The Hoosier DOT radials like more camber than less. Maybe brake lockup was an issue? Or understeer? Right now without bumpsteer correction or super stiff springs I do not run toe out; as the outside front leans into a corner it toes out more. I actually use toe-in, about 1/8" total.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Formerly from the Great White North but now residing in the Desert Southwest NM (The Land of Dis-Enchantment?)
The Hoosier DOT radials like more camber than less. Maybe brake lockup was an issue? Or understeer? Right now without bumpsteer correction or super stiff springs I do not run toe out; as the outside front leans into a corner it toes out more. I actually use toe-in, about 1/8" total.
I think a combination of bumpsteer with the relatively soft (550#) springs, the toe out, and a lot of hard braking all contributed to the tire wear. I probably will go with another set of A6's unless Kumho get's there act together and delivers tires. My girlfriend raced my Rippie built '93 for a couple of years and got used to the ABS helping her during braking. She still is working on learning "old school" In the mid 90's, she was one of the fastest women in the midwest so I can't give her too much grief, but I do show her the tire bill!
I've got some Guldstand springs coming for the front and will be working on the bumpsteer as soon as I can put it all together.
For shocks, I'm running Bilstein "Sears Point" shocks. I'm considering going to Koni adjustables but haven't yet because it adds one more variable.
Our first event out here is next month in Phoenix. I'm really going to be scrambling to get it all back together by that time.
Thanks for your input...Jack
