Thats fine. No offense is taken. I do recommend that you spend the extra money and go with a roller cam.

 

So are you saying that this Voodoo cam is a better fit with the Edelbrock Performer RPM heads?

 

The cam needs to fit the whole combination, not just the heads.
If you want a cam that will make power to 6000 rpm or above in a 350ci motor,
then yes I think that cam is better than the Edelbrock cam.
But truthfully, you can select dozens of cams that will work well with the rest of the RPM combo.
Just make sure to look at all of the variables - Engine size, compression, exhaust system, converter gears, etc., before deciding on the cam.

 

I'm looking for a cam that will work with the following setup:

350 L-82
4 Speed Manual Transmission
3.70 Rear Gear
Headers into true dual exhaust
Edelbrock Performer RPM heads
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake

 

As long as you pick heads with a smaller combution chamber than you have now,
to get your compression up into the 10:1 neighborhood, I think it will work very well.

 

Any cam 230* or more at .050 is gonna be a turd below 3000 rpms in any engine unless its got a TON of compression or its a big inch engine, like over 400 cubes. I have ran a ton of cams, my favorite hydraulic was a 231/239@.050, it was in a 10-1, 406" and did not start pulling until hard until 3000rpms...I had a 2800-3200 converter in it and it left really hard....1.60 60's in a 3500lb car with 3.42 gears....but had that been a stick car or an auto with a stock converter, it would have been a total turd.

I now have a 237/242*@.050 in my LS1, 6spd and 4.10s gears and its a total turd until 4000rpms, it easily revs to 7000rpm. Overlap has a lot to do with the lack of bottom end power. This one has a 113lsa and its still a dog down low....actually it makes 300rwtq at 3000 rpms but it doesn't feel or run like it.

In my opinion, I would stay in the 224-228* range and get as much lift as you can. If the car is an auto, I would get around a 2500 stall converter. The car will still make decent power down low and pull easily to 6000, thats all you need in a heavy streetcar.

I would seriously look at the Voo doo cams....the designer is Harold from the old Ultradyne cam company and he really knows his ****, especially for street cars.

The voo doo "268" would be a good choice if you have enough compression. I also 2nd the opinion on getting the vortec heads/chinese knock off air gap intake. The 62cc vortecs will get a little compression out of your stock 350, flow enough for 400hp and have a good chamber design. Lastly, the small ports will promote good bottom end power. I think this is the best setup for a 400 crank hp 350 and you could do it all for $1500. You will need the upgraded vortecs with the better springs and seals, new self aligning rockers arms and valve covers. We just did this same setup on a buddy's cheapy 383 and it flat out runs, its in a truck so its not THAT fast but.....I would think in a vette it would scoot.

 

Thanks for the info alan. I posted that chart earlier and you pretty much confirmed what it said.

With all that being said, how do you feel about dual pattern cams? I've read alot (from people including Vizard) that say they aren't for low end. Should I still bother with them? I would think on a mild street build (<400HP) its really not going to matter if I'm using a dual or single-pattern cam.

I would also like to stick to the hydrolic flat tappets, really not interested in having to retrofit my block (unless someone can tell me that I dont' need to).

How bout this puppy in an L-82 with the Edelbrock RPM package, headers, Holley 4779, and free flowing exhaust.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...3&autoview=sku

 

The larger valves (2.02 & 1.6) and cavernous runners in the heads are most effective at high RPM.
Remember, a Vette needs a good vacuum to run all the accessories, so having a lopy or choppy cam may not be ideal.
The airgap intake may not fit under a stock C3 hood, without some air breather work.
Weight savings with all the aluminum parts may be nice as would heat disapation.
Forged pistons are best, especially if higher compression ratios are desired.
Gas will be up to $4 per gal soon too, so there's something else to factor in. The modified swamp water they sell as pump gas likes low compression. Too high of compression will pre-detonate and may damage the pistons. (and sound embarrasing)
We all have personal recommendations and in the end, you will have to determin what is best for you. I want an all aluminum 572, but will probably just rebuild my 350 to something economical for daily driver applications.
Just my 2 Amero's worth

 

cavernous runners??? They're 170cc, one of the smallest runner sizes for a 350.

Many forum members have attested to fitting an Air Gap under their stock hoods with drop base air assemblies.

Aluminum has a pretty low heat transfer coefficient because its thermal conductivity is so low. If you're thinking "well then what is all the rage about aluminum radiators?" you need to start looking at surface area.

 

Yeah I always run dual pattern cams... they will make more power on the bottom and have a better power band. I think a hyd flat tappet is the way to go if you are only building around 400hp. Get a voo doo. I like the 227/233* voo doo. I think thats a great came if you have at least 10-1 compression and decent flowing heads. I think some upgraded vortec heads, air gap intake and a healthy 350 will make 400hp and be strong on the bottom to.

 

I have the 290 hp crate engine. I installed an Edelbrock RPM intake,msd ignition and an edelbrock 750 carb. It woke it up at higher rpm's but it lacks some in the launch department. A stall convertor has been suggested and will be installed when i repair my tranny. I intend to put some diff. heads as well as a cam. I have been told the 750 cfm is to big for the stock heads. I think summit said the stock cam is 223/254. with 9.5 compression. The motor came with no specs. They said to set the timing at 10deg. but it seems better at 12 deg.

 

Actually aluminum is more conductive than cast iron by a factor of 4, which is why you can run higher compression with aluminum heads than cast iron. It is about half as conductive than copper, so in a radiator, they design it with more surface area (increased # of cores) to get the cooling capacity up. The benefit of the aluminum is that, even with the increased # of cores, there is a weight reduction vs. the copper.

 

Ya, I definitely had radiator on the brain. You're dead right, aluminum is alot better than iron, but both are well below that of copper.