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I finally got my car running. However, it's dying on me right in the middle of the highway. I could be driving 55mph and the engine starts to die out. I pull over, put it in park and it turns right back on. Off I go. Could it be the fuel pump? It stays on forever in my parking lot.
Filter is completly full. Hmmm. That leads me to think the problem is at the carb. Am I off?
You want to check the complete system starting at the filter and working your way back to the fuel tank. Do you know what the contamination is? This should give you an idea of where the problem is.
I replaced the fuel tank with a new one. In line filter in the engine bay is full of fuel. I keep checking this fuel filter but it's now clean fuel. Before it was dirty fuel coming from an old gas tank. Did not replace the fuel lines because there really wasn't any need since it's now clean fuel coming through. The carb has just been rebuilt by the dealership. Not sure if it's not my fuel pump being that there is fuel in the filter.
Is it happening only since you replaced the fuel tank?
I dropped the tank on my 75. (Now the 75 has a bladder.) I replaced the filter sock and cut off about 3/8 inch from the pickup tube. I just thought that the pickup was too close to the very bottom of the tank and the bladder. Car runs fine now.
I think that just because you have fuel in the filter doesn't mean that you have sufficient fluid being drawn from the tank. Your carburator bowels will run dry at constant highway speeds because the trickle of fluid from the tank isn't sufficient to keep them full.
I finally got my car running. However, it's dying on me right in the middle of the highway. I could be driving 55mph and the engine starts to die out. I pull over, put it in park and it turns right back on. Off I go. Could it be the fuel pump? It stays on forever in my parking lot.
I don't know if a 74 fuel system is vented but if it doesn't get air in the tank , it will air lock and run for a little bit and then shut off. My snow blower was doing that recently. I took the gas cap off and noticed that the gas cap had a piece missing that allows the cap to get air in . Put a new cap on and it runs fine. Take your gas cap off and try it.
Is it happening only since you replaced the fuel tank?
I dropped the tank on my 75. (Now the 75 has a bladder.) I replaced the filter sock and cut off about 3/8 inch from the pickup tube. I just thought that the pickup was too close to the very bottom of the tank and the bladder. Car runs fine now.
I think that just because you have fuel in the filter doesn't mean that you have sufficient fluid being drawn from the tank. Your carburator bowels will run dry at constant highway speeds because the trickle of fluid from the tank isn't sufficient to keep them full.
Jim
Change the filter it's cheap enough. Do you have a inline filter or just the one in the carb
had the same problem with our 74 if it was sitting for a few yrs with gas in the tank. there will be condesation that will cause rust the rust will get pulled onto the sock on the fuel line in the tank it will be a real fine rust pluging off your sock not allowing fuel to your carb. you have to drop your tank and repalce with new or get gas tank sealer i would go for a new tank. get a flash light and look into the tank see if you see rust when the gas level is low. oh and dont hold a match to the open tank to see warning no open flame or smoking while looking into a gas tank lol good luck hope this helps
74and76CPL, what if I use a candle to look inside my tank? lol Today, I am replacing the fuel pump. Found a new one for $30. So am gonna try it. It's never been changed. The gas cap is aftermarket but was in bad shape. I noticed the thin rubber seal was broken, and hanging by a thread. So I removed it and simply put the cap back on. The rubber seal was so thin, I don't see how it could affect anything. But will replace it next. I've seen in catalogs they come in vented and non-vented. Which do I purchase?
Check your fuel lines for any cracks. I had a 69 Mustang doing the exact same thing and it was a cracked line by the carb. A cracked line will slowly allow air into the system unitl you are trying to push the air into the carb. The motor shuts off, and the fuel fliis all of the air voids.....off you go ....for a little while.
It sounds like your porblem is fuel related, but if have a distributor equiped with an ignition control module, it is possible for the module to be bad and still work. Let me explain. The module can work fine when it is cold, but after it gets hot it quits working. It cools down and begins to work again. Since it sounds like your vette starts right back up, I would lean away from the control module, but keep it in mind.