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I would to eventually like to put in a stroker(SB) in my car. This will be an extended project due to the fact that I currently have a 388cid that runs pretty good, and it will be built as funds become available but Eventually I KNOW I will want more power
Can anyone suggest the best block to start a stroker project?
Thanks,
Mark
Not looking to clean out the bank!!!
I guess my question is should I look for a un bored 350 or a 400.
Please bear with me...Never built a stroker before!
I currently have a 1969 roadster 350 bored .060 over with what I would call a 1/2 to 3/4 race cam( Don't remember numbers off hand, sorry!).The 64cc hump heads with a performer intake and Lars tuned Q-Jet and HEI ignition. And frame style headers. Oh yeah a T5 5 speed also.
At this time I am looking for the next step in getting more power!
Any suggestions are welcome.
What kind of money am I looking at for a new block, by the way???
Mark
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by sly vette
Can anyone suggest the best block to start a stroker project?
Mark -
The Dart Little M is a great block, and will allow you any stroke you want. Dyno-Flo offers some great pricing on blocks, parts, and subassemblies (better pricing than you can get if you order the parts separately through Summit). Check them out or call them: http://dyno-flo.com/
Here is a 420 inch small block that I just built using the Dart M block:
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Here's just the shortblock with the Dart M block, a stroker Eagle crank, 6" rods, and some JE Racing pistons. You can buy this rotating assembly for about the same cost it would take you to buy & machine a used 400 block and do the bottom end work. But if you want to use stock Chevy parts, the 400 block would be a great starting point:
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Lars, nice motors. Do you have to clearance the Little M block for a 4 inch crank ? This is what I was told or should I say it wasn't clear from the dealer, he couldn't say yes or no. He pointed me to the World block where the 4 inch crank fits without any clearancing
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by MotorHead
Do you have to clearance the Little M block for a 4 inch crank?
I used a 3-7/8" stroke crank and did not have to do any clearancing - it appeared to have plenty of space. The guys at Dyno-Flo could tell you for sure with a quick phone call.
A little confused here, you say you want a stroker motor, cool then you say you have a 388ci now, then later you say you have a 350 bored .060? A 350 with a over bore of .060 is 360ci? A 350 with a 400 crank (so called stroker motors) with a .060 over bore is 388ci! So it sounds like you already have that stroker motor? What did I miss here?
The motor I have at this time was bored .060 over to get rid of the ridge and make the bores true.
I was told by another poaster when I built this motor that it will now have 388cid Those are the numbers I am going from.
I am sure I have the standard cast crank and stock rods with the standard pistons from speed pro.
This motor will be a replacement for the motor I have in there now, and I want more grunt down low and I want to be able to swap motors when this one is done so I can eliminate down time!
Unless someone can find a significant torque increase in my current eng. My plan was to build something beffier
500 hp and 500 torque would be real nice!!!
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Mark -
A .060" over 350 is a 360. To get a 388, you have to have a .060" over 350 with a 400 crank in it (3.75" stroke), in which case you'd already have a stroker. If you have a 350 crank in your block, you have a 3.48" stroke and 360 cubic inches.
In order to increase torque into the 500-range, you're going to need more stroke. Your best bet is to get an aftermarket block that is designed to handle the longer stroke cranks, such as the Dart and the World Products. But you're also going to need some good flowing heads to go with the combination, so building a 500 ft/lb small block is not a cheap proposition...
Lars, not to hijack, but that is some beautiful plumbing work on those hard fuel/return lines. You don't see enough well-done hard lines like that any more.
Lars, not to hijack, but that is some beautiful plumbing work on those hard fuel/return lines. You don't see enough well-done hard lines like that any more.
Lars,
again not to hijack, but where did you get the kickass valve covers from?
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by billla
Lars, not to hijack, but that is some beautiful plumbing work on those hard fuel/return lines. You don't see enough well-done hard lines like that any more.
Bill -
Thanks for the kind words! Glad to see you noticed the hardline work - I like to do hardlines for everything on the pressure side of the system - I think it makes a nice clean installation. The 180-bend at the back was interesting... I still need to remove and polish the lines - they're stainless, so they'll polish out very nicely to really give the looks an edge.
Originally Posted by L82shark
Lars, where did you get the kickass valve covers from?
The crossed flags covers are from Billet Specialties. They make some nice stuff - quality is very good, and prices are actually reasonable. The flags made a nice compliment to the Corvette application for the engine - thanks again for the compliment!
The Internet is your friend; this is an easy search on one of the 'net vendors. Think around $2500 for iron, $4500 for aluminum. There's more to that decision than just the pricing of the block