Looks like I need valve seals. My reg. shop shot me a price of about $400. Does that seem close?(Chicago southland area)

 

I just replaced mine with some basic tools, took me around 4-5 hours to complete the job, it took that long because its my 1st time to work with engines! .. so for the average gearhead it should take no more than 2-3 hours. you just need a spring compressor (the one designed to be used without removing cylinder heads) and few wrenches. And its a real good time to examine your engine closely.

 

400.00 is pretty strong for nothing else but seals. Even for a BB with air. A good mechainc could do a complete job under 3 hours. And at a big buck a hour would only be 300.00. If they cannot do it any better than 400.00 it`s too muich and there not that good. Or maybe as good as they think they are....

 

Way too much for a job you can do yourself with a few hand tools.

 

I just keep copy and pasting my advice out of the archives.

4 hour job.

Here is one post I did about the job:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=947140

OK, here are my directions from an old post:
Here is my method. No compressor required and I can do 16 seals in 3 hours.

1. You need a small magnet, hammer, wheel grease, spring compressor (I use the cheap bar type), rope, a balancer that is marked every 90 degrees plus wrenches, etc.
2. Remove spark plugs.
3. Rotate balancer (I use the bolt) till you get to the 0 degree TDC mark.
4. Ensure that you are on #1 TDC on firing stroke by pulling the distributor cap. Rotor pointing close to #1? Good. If it is pointing to #6. If not rotate crank 360 degrees and recheck.
5. I feed a little rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole but it is not required since the piston is at TDC.
6. We are now ready to replace the springs/seals on #1.
7. Remove rocker arms and pushrods. I then do each spring in turn.
8. Tap spring retainer with hammer to help "break" friction.
9. Compress spring and remove the keepers using the magnet.
10. You can now replace the seals and springs.
11. Compress spring and retainer assembly and reinstall the keepers. A little grease on the inside of the keepers will help them stick to the valve stem when doing this.
12. Reinstall pushrods and rockers.
13. Since the piston is at TDC on the firing stroke, both valves are closed and the cam lifters will be on the base circle of the cam. This means that you can relash the valves at this time for that cylinder.
14. Remove rope and rotate crank 90 degrees.
15. Repeat for next cylinder IN FIRING ORDER.

The beauty of this method is that with the piston at TDC, the valve cannot drop down more than 1/2" and will not fall into the cylinder bore. Also, block the oil drainback holes in the heads. I use those thick blue paper towels so I don't get lint in the oil.

 

My valve seals ended up taking 8 months. Of course what started with a need for seals ended up with:

New Edelbrock aluminum heads.
New Weiand aluminum intake.
New DeWitt aluminum radiator.
Hooker headers.
Sidepipes.

 

Sounds like you have never done cyclinder head work if you went to a shop for a price. Unless you have a buddy who can help, $400.00 will be a cheap price to pay if it's not done correct. If your going to do it, I suggest you pull the heads, and check everything, look for bent / worn valves, worn rockers, bent or worn rods, check springs / retainers etc. Now's the time to do it right.

 

Way too much money for valve seals alone. If you need the heads cleaned up, valve seats machined, and some general porting, etc. then $400 might not be too bad.

 

sounds like my broken valve spring ended up 5 months later 30over new pistons cam rods alum heads long tube headers roller rockers weiand intake new oil pump HEI ignition now the fun begins

 

How many miles on engine what are your probs with motor

 

Blue smoke on start up that does disapate, and the smell of oil fuel outside of the car(especialy in the garage). The wife says I smell like the car after a drive.

 

Oh, and 80,000 miles.

 

You possibly need a valve job at 80 K miles. There could be some other issues at that mileage too. You could do it yourself with the aid of a local auto parts that has a machine shop that could help with the repairs if necessary.and the information to help you

 

See post #6 - Here we go again

Yes at 80K you could easily need a full valve job and not just a seal replacement.

My advice - stop right where you are. BEWARE the valve seal replacement that turns into a frame-off. Been there - stopped at an engine overhaul. Buy yourself a valve spring compressor, some rope, and a set of those rubber umbrella seals. They will stop the oil buring without a full valve job. No major dissasembly and very low cost. Buy a case of beer and call your buddy to help.

If you plan on keeping this car for the long haul and dive it often, it might make sense to tear the heads off. A lot of C3's don't get driven frequently. 80K is pretty low mileage so this one sounds like it is an occaisonal use car and you might rather spend money/time elsewhere.

Just something to think about.

-Mark.