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Muncie conversion

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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 06:07 AM
  #1  
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Default Muncie conversion

I want to dump the TH350 before I explode it so I was thinking of going with the 4 speed that could have been gotten with the car but upon reading i saw that some of the muncies can use the th350 drive shaft and cross member. This would be great cause I would like to do it on a budget. So did I misunderstand what I read or is there hope yet?
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 06:59 AM
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All the early 63-70 muncies were 10 spline(except the 70 M22...26 spline)input shafts,and use the Turbo 350 yoke.I would stay away from the earlier ones,and opt for a 68-70 tho.The yokes arn't that expensive tho,and you may be able to find a Super T10 cheaper than a muncie,but you will have to use the larger Turbo 400 yoke.Hope this helps....
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 08:08 AM
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Also need the frame bracket that the Z-bar links up to.
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 08:27 AM
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Not sure about the crossmember question but the fun factor is going to be multiplied several times by switching to a manual again.



Richard
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by rj8806
Not sure about the crossmember question but the fun factor is going to be multiplied several times by switching to a manual again.



Richard


got the sissy out of my 81 and swapped in a 79 Borg Warner. All the parts are out there. You'll need a yoke no matter what.

next time I pull the 4 speed out it will be while I'm installing a keisler 5 or 6.
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 03:36 PM
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Converting to a stick was one of the best things I ever did for my shark. Same cross member works, and you'll be one up on manual frames which don't have the removable piece. Don't shy away from doing this over a yoke, as they aren't that difficult to change and there are a couple of more difficult items to address than that anyway. T10 weighs a ton and isn't as strong, so go with a Muncie (wide ratio) as long as you get a post '65 unit with a 1" counter-shaft. My $.02...

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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 04:08 PM
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So a late 60's early 70's, and I can use my drive shaft i just need to change the yoke. Then it is just piecing together all of the other crap. I want to slowly start collecting all of the parts before I disassemble. I have 4.10's in the rear, so wouldn't I want to go with a close ration trans?

Last edited by JustinD; Feb 12, 2008 at 04:11 PM.
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 05:18 PM
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What was wrong with the later 70s trans say 1978 ?? the 2.43
low gear would work pretty good with 4.10s that would give you
a 9.96 low gear plus keep all your gear spreads close for that small
350.

Last edited by Little Mouse; Feb 12, 2008 at 05:25 PM.
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 05:27 PM
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Am I understanding that the cross member for an automatic can be used for a Muncie? Is this true on 73 too?
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 06:02 PM
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an early muncie-uses the same drive shaft and slip joint as a th350-pm me i just did the same swap i can fill you in on what is needed
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 06:41 PM
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I did a TKO600 swap when I put in my ZZ383 a few months ago and replaced everything in the driveline since it was easily accessable. So now I've got a Muncie, Hurst shifter, driveshaft, racing clutch, bellhousing, and flywheel out of my '69 laying around. The tranny, shifter, and driveshaft are fine, but the clutch pressure plate and flywheel probably need resurfacing and you'd probably want a new clutch disk. Let me know if you are interested.
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 06:53 PM
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Can some one post a pic of the modified cross member. I am also doing this swap. Probably this spring. I have all the parts, hopefully, and just need the time.
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 07:19 PM
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So, now I need to find the right muncie. With 4.10s would the close or wide ratio be best? If I go close ratio should I just find a m22 rockcrusher?
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by yellow94coupe
I did a TKO600 swap when I put in my ZZ383 a few months ago and replaced everything in the driveline since it was easily accessable. So now I've got a Muncie, Hurst shifter, driveshaft, racing clutch, bellhousing, and flywheel out of my '69 laying around. The tranny, shifter, and driveshaft are fine, but the clutch pressure plate and flywheel probably need resurfacing and you'd probably want a new clutch disk. Let me know if you are interested.
You looking to get rid of some of that stuff? So far I;m going to send out money for the pedals zbar both rods and the clutch fork.
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 07:26 PM
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I have 4.56 gears and the wide ratio M20 muncie was a nice match since I didn't have to shift it quite as often. Just make sure you are ok with having pretty high rpms on the highway if you go with the 4.11 gears. That was my main motivation for going with the TKO600. That 0.64 overdrive is awesome!
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by yellow94coupe
I have 4.56 gears and the wide ratio M20 muncie was a nice match since I didn't have to shift it quite as often. Just make sure you are ok with having pretty high rpms on the highway if you go with the 4.11 gears. That was my main motivation for going with the TKO600. That 0.64 overdrive is awesome!
Well the gears are already in so would a wide ratio be best?
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 07:28 PM
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yellow94coupe, I pm ed you
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 07:30 PM
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All that stuff is up for sale. Once you get the pedals, z-bar linkage, and clutch fork, you should just about be set. The only other thing I can think you'd need would be a new center console cover and you might need to cut a larger hole in the transmission tunnel for the shifter to poke through, but I'm not for certain on that.
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 07:33 PM
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Is the tranny in good shape? How much do they normally go for?
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
T10 weighs a ton and isn't as strong, so go with a Muncie (wide ratio) as long as you get a post '65 unit with a 1" counter-shaft. My $.02...


I've got the chipped tooth to prove it from a swap about 10 years ago when I pulled the T-10 back and dropped it right on top of myself. Suppose you could make the case that I shouldn't have been directly underneath it.... but that's how we learn....
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