slack in timing chain
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 7
From: Brazos TX
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
That's pretty loose. Besides, it's the old nylon toothed gear. I would replace it with a cheap rebuilder set. It should only be about $20. That is cheap insurance. Are you in Denmark? Maybe it will be a little more for you but I still think it's worth it.
*edit* I see you are in Denmark, not Germany.
*edit* I see you are in Denmark, not Germany.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,991
Likes: 3
From: Piscataway NJ
[QUOTE=burners;1564170870]That's pretty loose. Besides, it's the old nylon toothed gear. I would replace it with a cheap rebuilder set. It should only be about $20. That is cheap insurance. Are you in Denmark? Maybe it will be a little more for you but I still think it's worth it.
Cheap insurance. You are there now. You won't have to go back later
Cheap insurance. You are there now. You won't have to go back later
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,246
Likes: 4
From: Bay Area CA
Time for a change,, check this out, what I just did, look at what that timing gear does. I used a Cloyes double roller with forged steel gears from summit. A good idea. Summit p/n CLO-9-3500TX9. Probalby a good idea to replace the Ballancer 'while your at it' the ballancer is a 6 3/4" for the L48, not an 8" as pictured btw, C.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1920169
For referance, heres the nice steel crank gear. LOOSE THE PLASTIC/ALUINUM POS CAM GEAR!!!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1920169
For referance, heres the nice steel crank gear. LOOSE THE PLASTIC/ALUINUM POS CAM GEAR!!!
Last edited by RunningMan373; Feb 19, 2008 at 08:17 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,924
Likes: 6
Time for a change,, check this out, what I just did, look at what that timing gear does. I used a Cloyes double roller with forged steel gears from summit. A good idea. Summit p/n CLO-9-3500TX9. Probalby a good idea to replace the Ballancer 'while your at it' the ballancer is a 6 3/4" for the L48, not an 8" as pictured btw, C.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1920169
For referance, heres the nice steel crank gear. LOOSE THE PLASTIC/ALUINUM POS CAM GEAR!!!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1920169
For referance, heres the nice steel crank gear. LOOSE THE PLASTIC/ALUINUM POS CAM GEAR!!!
$20 to $50 is and easy way to SAVE $2000
believe this man!
real damage from one of those "quiet" albeit worn plastic coated gears
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 379
Likes: 7
Im definately not going to keep that nylon gear.will this be a suitable replacement?
http://www.firstmile.dk/product.asp?...sub=127&page=1
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 379
Likes: 7
Pro
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 741
Likes: 1
From: Woodstock GA
You may need a puller for the crank gear...other than that, its pretty straightforward with normal hand tools. You may want to use some locktite on the cam gear bolts, too! Oh, and if the engine has a groove worn on the end of the crank (it likely does), get a repair sleeve for it (available through Fel-Pro and others, though you may have to buy another timing cover gasket set to get it).
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 952
Likes: 0
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,560
Likes: 439
From: Wellington, FL
St. Jude Donor '11 thru '25
I changed my original gears on my '76 a while back with about 90K miles on them and they actually looked pretty good. I remember I had a '69 Grand Prix, though, and the originals lasted about 65K which GM said was normal. It tore up but luckily didn't damage anything else. One of my other cars is a '91 Lincoln Mark VII with the 5.0. I've got 165K original miles on it and it runs like the day I bought it (new) and the Mark VII forum guys say they never change them unless they got it torn down to that point. No plastic teeth, I guess. Anyway, change 'em out and then you don't have to worry. 
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,246
Likes: 4
From: Bay Area CA
You may need a puller for the crank gear...other than that, its pretty straightforward with normal hand tools. You may want to use some locktite on the cam gear bolts, too! Oh, and if the engine has a groove worn on the end of the crank (it likely does), get a repair sleeve for it (available through Fel-Pro and others, though you may have to buy another timing cover gasket set to get it).
you'll need a gear puller like this, summit p/n WMR-W87123, 15 bucks
A 2 jaw would also work just fine.
Also need a harmonic ballancer puller/installer kit like this one to pull the h/b off and to put the crank gear and then the h/b on. Summit p/n PRO-66514. 70 bucks. You could get away without this one, and use a wide steering wheel puller to pull the h/b, and use a cut piece of steel pipe and the crank bolt to put the crank gear and then the h/b on, but I would recomend the tool kit, if it's in your budget.
You'll need a timing chain cover gasket set, which should also include a new crank oil seal. Use the new one, and be sure to put assembly lube on it's contact surface when you put the timing cover back on, New crank oil seal installed in it. summint p/n FEL-TCS45165
Take your time and use some care, you should be fine. That's all the special tools needed, get some rtv, you might want to replace the harmonic ballancer and water pump while thier out. I recently completed this job with the help of the Forum, it takes a while (8 hours relisticly) but isn't that hard.
Good luck,, C.
Last edited by RunningMan373; Feb 21, 2008 at 04:25 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 379
Likes: 7
I already got a complete felpro smallblock gasket set, a heavy duty 2 jaw puller, new waterpumpe, new harmonic balancer.
So it looks like I only need the H/B puller/installer. I would not hesitate to buy one if only I didnt have to order it from US. Expensive shipment + a lot of taxes = 180$ when it gets here.
Thanks for all the help
So it looks like I only need the H/B puller/installer. I would not hesitate to buy one if only I didnt have to order it from US. Expensive shipment + a lot of taxes = 180$ when it gets here.
Thanks for all the help
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,991
Likes: 3
From: Piscataway NJ
Never use a block of wood and hammer to install the balancer. You will destroy the thrust bearing on the crank shaft.
A jaw puller should not be used. As you could separate the outer ring of the balancer from the hub. The correct method is using a puller that bolts to the three pulley mounting bolt holes. To install it you want the tool to press it back on.
A jaw puller should not be used. As you could separate the outer ring of the balancer from the hub. The correct method is using a puller that bolts to the three pulley mounting bolt holes. To install it you want the tool to press it back on.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,246
Likes: 4
From: Bay Area CA
Never use a block of wood and hammer to install the balancer. You will destroy the thrust bearing on the crank shaft.
A jaw puller should not be used. As you could separate the outer ring of the balancer from the hub. The correct method is using a puller that bolts to the three pulley mounting bolt holes. To install it you want the tool to press it back on.
A jaw puller should not be used. As you could separate the outer ring of the balancer from the hub. The correct method is using a puller that bolts to the three pulley mounting bolt holes. To install it you want the tool to press it back on.