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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 10:53 PM
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I finally got the factory alarm system wired and working the way its supoosed to on my 78 BUT i added the T-top alarm switches into the mix and everything works fine except those, its wired correctly as per the lectric limited wiring diagram any ideas.
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ubowl
I finally got the factory alarm system wired and working the way its supoosed to on my 78 BUT i added the T-top alarm switches into the mix and everything works fine except those, its wired correctly as per the lectric limited wiring diagram any ideas.
Is that switch grounded?
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 11:30 PM
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yes it is one side just like the diagram shows one side goes to the other switch then to the door post switch on the passenger side. the other side of the switch is ground goes to ground at a common point to both switches

Last edited by ubowl; Mar 5, 2008 at 11:36 PM.
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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 08:33 AM
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Check the switch. sometimes the two bars in the switch don't make contact when the t top is removed. Take your finger and push the two bars together and see if alarm triggers.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 06:22 AM
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I checked both switches and all the wiring for continuity and find no problems, now the only thing i can question is the verification of some kind of diode at the anti theft flasher i dont see one unless its inside the wiring harness but everything else looks right and checks out ok
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 07:52 AM
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According to my Chevrolet shop manual just connect the t top switches by attaching blue wires to the the blue wire from doors and black to ground. I sure you have done this, but does the alrm go off when a door is opened?
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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 09:18 AM
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I know Iam scratching my head it seems so basic. the only thing thats different is at the door switch there are three wires there, two are the blue and the other is a white. I took the T-top switch blue wire from LH side to the same point on the RH side switch then ran a blue wire from there to the blue wires at the door switch and at the LH T-top at the other contact to the RH same contact right back about 5 inches away and removed the ground bolt for the rear defroster and tied both switches black wires to that for ground. This is exactly the procedure i followed. And YES the alarm functions correctly at the doors and the hood BUT NO T-TOPS
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 04:57 PM
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well ive checked these things out so many times and they still dont work, the rest of the alarm works perfectly but still no alarm funtion on T-Tops
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 05:35 PM
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Is the problem that the alarm won't shut off with the tops installed or won't sound off when you remove the tops? Are you sure the T-top bayonets are going cleanly into the holes and breaking the contact at the switches?

Last edited by KapsSA; Mar 19, 2008 at 05:38 PM.
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 10:40 AM
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yes they spread apart just fine. like i said everything checks out meter wise, alarm works perfectly EXCEPT the T-tops. wired exactly right. only thing different is at the RH door switch where the Lt Blue wire goes the wiring diagram shows that the only blue wire at the switch is from the T-top but there is one already there coming from somewhere under the dash and on the other contact is the white wire like the diagram shows. The T-tops dont do anything opened or closed its like nothing is hooked to them. Iam just stumped
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ubowl
yes it is one side just like the diagram shows one side goes to the other switch then to the door post switch on the passenger side. the other side of the switch is ground goes to ground at a common point to both switches

I believe the alarm is wired to the switch at the bottom rear of the door frame, not the door post switch. It is on earlier cars.
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Old Mar 21, 2008 | 06:17 AM
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There isnt any switch at the rear of the door frame, and i havnt seen any diagrams dipicting that at all
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Old Mar 21, 2008 | 09:19 AM
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you said that there were two blue wires on the door switch.

is it possible that you taped in to the wrong blue wire?
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 07:30 AM
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i wish that was the case but on a plunger type switch like a door switch all its doing is make and unmake. any switch really. unless theres a relay involved and only if that relay is in between point A and point B not the case here. But thanks for your input anything right now is a good thing might just stimulate something in my aging brain, Its got to be something very stupid. Iam going to rip it all out and reinstall the wiring back to the switches even though it all checks out, just for giggles. John
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 08:01 AM
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Before you rip out wiring, sit down and draw your own schematic of YOUR present wiring....the way you remember hooking it up. Then compare each wire and connection of YOUR schematic with the one sent to you...wire-by-wire, connection-by-connection. Something may show up as a difference in that comparison.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 03:58 AM
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Been there done that, BUT I FOUND IT, by accident i decided to ohm out all wires again, about a foot and a half up the wire along the door going up to the switch i hit a dead spot in the wire (no theres no splice) by pulling the wire out of the wiring cradle along the door sill i must have made imake contact along the course and when i streched it out to put it back in it moves the wire and breaks contact so i carefully cut the coating off the wire sure enough there is a clean cut inside the covering I ran a new piece of wire and scared the s**t out of myself when the horn starting going off (forgot I had the t-top un latched) so naturally after cleaning the blood off my forehead i checked the rest of the switches to confirm that they were all working and alas they are. I KNEW IT WAS SOMETHING STUPID. OK now back to the headlights they work now as before they didnt but all new componets they dont just pop up and close like they should hope this one is easier to find Thanks for all you guys attempts Johnny B
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
I believe the alarm is wired to the switch at the bottom rear of the door frame, not the door post switch. It is on earlier cars.
The redundant double-switch system was eliminated sometime prior to 77 - probably when the alarm was made standard.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by ubowl
Been there done that, BUT I FOUND IT, by accident i decided to ohm out all wires again, about a foot and a half up the wire along the door going up to the switch i hit a dead spot in the wire (no theres no splice) by pulling the wire out of the wiring cradle along the door sill i must have made imake contact along the course and when i streched it out to put it back in it moves the wire and breaks contact so i carefully cut the coating off the wire sure enough there is a clean cut inside the covering I ran a new piece of wire and scared the s**t out of myself when the horn starting going off (forgot I had the t-top un latched) so naturally after cleaning the blood off my forehead i checked the rest of the switches to confirm that they were all working and alas they are. I KNEW IT WAS SOMETHING STUPID. OK now back to the headlights they work now as before they didnt but all new componets they dont just pop up and close like they should hope this one is easier to find Thanks for all you guys attempts Johnny B
Congrats on finding the solution! Have been lurking on this one pending a solution before asking this question.

Is there a way to "electronically" activate/deactivate the alarm off the power door lock system? Have just installed a keyless remote system and would like to use the factory alarm with it. Didn't want to go through the drill of installing an second alarm system.
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 05:58 AM
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I will let you know as soon as I find the headlight problem, thats the next item is the keyless system but I think it should be no problem. Ha HA but this t-top issue i thought was simple too,
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