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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 11:32 PM
  #1  
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Default lowering a vette....

hey, im planning on lowering my vette, probably just a couple of inches. anybody got any tips on how? hardware?
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 12:53 AM
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replace the front coils with VBP 550's and use longer rear spring bolts to get the tail down.
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by wnjlt1
replace the front coils with VBP 550's and use longer rear spring bolts to get the tail down.

Yep that's about the best way to net yourself a few inches. I cut my front springs instead of installing new ones, but more than 2 inches it's better to replace them.
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 03:33 PM
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I just installed longer bolts on my 69. The stock ones were 6.5 inches while the others were 8. I also put in new rubber cushions since my old ones were very compressed. The rear only lowered 3/4 " I guess because I replaced the cushions with new ones. I have a big block car so the rear anti-sway bar brackets need to be removed so you can slide out the old bolts. WD-40 all those old bolts before cranking.
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 03:41 PM
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We offer front springs in rates from 450 to 800 lbs and rear spring bolts starting at the oem length of 6.5'' up to 10'' If you have any questions or need some help lowering your car give me a call at 972-243-3838.

http://www.duntovmotors.com/PartsMain.htm

Duntov Motor Company
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Yep that's about the best way to net yourself a few inches. I cut my front springs instead of installing new ones, but more than 2 inches it's better to replace them.

Cut 1-1/4 coils off to get 2" lowering and longer rr bolts.
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 06:17 PM
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thanks alot fellas, ill be sure to take this project on this weekend, and ill let you know how it goes.
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by onsturn
I I also put in new rubber cushions since my old ones were very compressed. The rear only lowered 3/4 " I guess because I replaced the cushions with new ones.
The cushions received with the VBP fiberglass spring kit and maybe some of their other kits are "tall," they have a sort of spherical shape on one end and the cushions are perhaps 2 inches tall. The stock cushions look like wafers, perhaps an inch thick. The message here is that the cushions are available in two thicknesses. This means that in conjunction with the trailing arm/spring bolt, you can adjust height not only by using a thick (tall) cushion, but also using the thinner stock cushion. For example, I did this using a VBP fiberglass spring and their longer trailing arm/spring bolts. I couldn't get a satisfactory ride height using their "tall" cushions, but the stock "wafer" type solved the problem.
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 09:33 PM
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I have the VBP front mono kit and the rear mono with longer bolts. Lowered about 3" I also have side pipes.

You can see the pic in the sig
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 68/70Vette
The cushions received with the VBP fiberglass spring kit and maybe some of their other kits are "tall," they have a sort of spherical shape on one end and the cushions are perhaps 2 inches tall. The stock cushions look like wafers, perhaps an inch thick. The message here is that the cushions are available in two thicknesses. This means that in conjunction with the trailing arm/spring bolt, you can adjust height not only by using a thick (tall) cushion, but also using the thinner stock cushion. For example, I did this using a VBP fiberglass spring and their longer trailing arm/spring bolts. I couldn't get a satisfactory ride height using their "tall" cushions, but the stock "wafer" type solved the problem.
I did not know the cushions come in (2) types. Where did you get the wafer version from?
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 12:29 AM
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You guys that cut your springs; Did you cut from the top or the bottom? I appear to have progressive springs with coil spacing wider apart on the top and closer on the bottom. Also question the last revolution and if it should be heated and flattened to fit the pocket.

Don't mean to hijack...
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Blain
You guys that cut your springs; Did you cut from the top or the bottom? I appear to have progressive springs with coil spacing wider apart on the top and closer on the bottom. Also question the last revolution and if it should be heated and flattened to fit the pocket.

Don't mean to hijack...

I cut off of the bottom, but my springs were not progressive.

Also, don't ever heat up the springs...it'll kill em.

I didn't flatten mine at all, just made sure the ends fell into the recesses in the spring pockets, and it all went together perfectly.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 09:32 AM
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If your cars like mine just leave your 40 year old saggy springs on. Two benefits...

1. Lowered ride height
2. Soft ride
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 12:56 PM
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Anyone know about ONSTURN's question? I'm curious, too, about there being 2 thickesses of rear spring cushions? I always thought the 'wafer' type were just originals that had been compressed by so many years of weight. Is this part of the reason there are so many questions about getting the proper ride height after rear end work?
Regards,
Alan
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 01:38 PM
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Yes, we need to know about these cushions. Also do you have to remove the rear sway bar mounts to adjust the spring bolts.I can't see any way to get a wrench on the top of the bolt with the sway bar bracket there.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bonehead2
Yes, we need to know about these cushions. Also do you have to remove the rear sway bar mounts to adjust the spring bolts.I can't see any way to get a wrench on the top of the bolt with the sway bar bracket there.
Use a 13/16" open end/box wrench and just put in through the end of the trailing arm. Adjust the length from the nut on the bottom.
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