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If you leave the rest of the front end all bolted up it will not drop. The front bumper and brackets will hold up the front end. I have had mine out a few times and replaced it also with no problems in the front end dropping.
If you leave the rest of the front end all bolted up it will not drop. The front bumper and brackets will hold up the front end. I have had mine out a few times and replaced it also with no problems in the front end dropping.
Thanks Gordonm , this is good news and I am back on track now.
I just completed radiator repair on my '69 (don't try to overtighten the drain petcock unless you want a face full of antifreeze when it comes out in your hand). Bumper holds up front clip as stated above.
I have always found it easier to remove the radiator/shroud/radiator support as a unit. You will need to take off the hood and remove the fan, but that is nothing over trying to remove just the radiator.
Have fun.
Ralph.
Last edited by rponfick; Mar 24, 2008 at 03:30 PM.
I just completed radiator repair on my '69 (don't try to overtighten the drain petcock unless you want a face full of antifreeze when it comes out in your hand). Bumper holds up front clip as stated above.
I have always found it easier to remove the radiator/shroud/radiator support as a unit. You will need to take off the hood and remove the fan, but that is nothing over trying to remove just the radiator.
Hi David,
You've been given good advice so far! I would only add that I tape a flat piece of cardboard on each side of the radiator, to protect the 'fins' on the core. I don't like to see a radiator that's had some of the fins 'smushed'. By the way, smushed is a purely technical word!
Good Luck, you'll do this job easily!
Regards,
Alan
Hi David,
You've been given good advice so far! I would only add that I tape a flat piece of cardboard on each side of the radiator, to protect the 'fins' on the core. I don't like to see a radiator that's had some of the fins 'smushed'. By the way, smushed is a purely technical word!
Good Luck, you'll do this job easily!
Regards,
Alan
Hello Alan , hope all is well in MD.
Thanks for the additional advice , I will sure do that with some cardboard.
Once I get a proper original radiator installed I will be thru with the major plans for this winter's round of work.
But after seeing your car , I am considering selling mine and moving to Tibet.
If you have a good radiator repair shop in your area, they should be able to thoroughly clean and check your radiator for any leaks, weak areas, damage, and pressure check it for integrity. If there is damage and you can re-core it for less than $300, I would recommend that you do so.....unless you have a modified engine that needs to get rid of more heat than a stock unit. There are some good replacements out there, but nothing will go back in any easier than the one that came out. Good luck. [P.S. The cardboard idea is a really good one.]
If you have a good radiator repair shop in your area, they should be able to thoroughly clean and check your radiator for any leaks, weak areas, damage, and pressure check it for integrity. If there is damage and you can re-core it for less than $300, I would recommend that you do so.....unless you have a modified engine that needs to get rid of more heat than a stock unit. There are some good replacements out there, but nothing will go back in any easier than the one that came out. Good luck. [P.S. The cardboard idea is a really good one.]
Thanks 7t1vette.
Good advice on having the unit checked. My current radiator has a very good core , but the tanks are not right for my year model. If the core on the unit I hope to get test bad , my plan B is to have my core switched to the new tanks.
David,
I truly believe that an LT-1 is THE 71 to have. Don't sell, don't move. I think I wrote before that you're having more FUN with your car than I'm having with mine!!!
Regards,
Alan