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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 01:24 AM
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Default engine meets transmission

I am about to bolt up my new engine & tranny. Since I am not a Mechanic tell me if I have this right. Fill converter with fluid slip onto spline, make sure it goes on all the way, next bolt bell housing to engine, the bolt converter to flywheel. This is a 350 to 2004r mating. What is the best type of fluid to use? It's a new built BTO. Also what is the estimated top end HP loss for a 430hp engine with a flat curve between 6000 & 7000rpm using 1 5\8 vs 1 3\4 primarys. It's so hard to find 1 3\4 for factory side pipes. I was thinking of hedman's the cuting off the collector and add a 23" aftermarket to help flow. Any thought on that? Thanks
Tom
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 10:00 AM
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No need to fill the converter completely prior to assembly...the fluid will just run out as you are trying to engage it on the input shaft/pump drive. Fill it to where it starts to run out when you stand it up to install it. That's the fluid level it has when the car is started, anyway. Fill sump to the "full - HOT" mark on the dipstick (before starting) and be ready with another quart of Dexron after you start it and re-check oil level.
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
No need to fill the converter completely prior to assembly...the fluid will just run out as you are trying to engage it on the input shaft/pump drive. Fill it to where it starts to run out when you stand it up to install it. That's the fluid level it has when the car is started, anyway. Fill sump to the "full - HOT" mark on the dipstick (before starting) and be ready with another quart of Dexron after you start it and re-check oil level.

I usually put one full quart in the torque converter before I stab it on the transmission.
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 02:59 PM
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BTO should have provided detailed instructions on the tranny fluid and installation procedures with another item being installing a temp, aux filter in the trans fluid return line.

Anyways, fill the converter with @quart before installing. Also, at least a couple of years back, BTO recommended using any Dextron II. They were more concerned of changing the fluid and filter regularily than the name brand.
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 08:41 PM
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Thanks, I just opened the crate today, there is a big packet inside but I have not looked at it yet. Rust proof coating engine bay and frame. My biggest problem is choosing a header. can anyone help me with that. See above for details
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by V-Rod
Thanks, I just opened the crate today, there is a big packet inside but I have not looked at it yet. Rust proof coating engine bay and frame. My biggest problem is choosing a header. can anyone help me with that. See above for details

I prefer Hooker brand headers and side mounts.
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 12:42 AM
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Fill the convertor with 2 qts, it should take it, and MAKE SURE you have the front transmission pump drive tangs engaged with the notches in the torque convertor output shaft. There are 2 notches that engage the front pump drive and they NEED to be lined up properly.
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 12:57 AM
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From: Forrest City Ar
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
I prefer Hooker brand headers and side mounts.
Me too Matt but the factory covers came on the car and I have spent so much, car, turn key, BTO, Dewitts that I am going to have to wait on the hookers
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 08:59 AM
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Just did this last week on a friends big block car. New TCI convertor. Their instructions said 1 qt in the convertor when installing. make sure that the convertor is all the way in.

You can tell because with the engine bolted on there will still be some room between the mounting tabs on the convertor and the pads on the flexplate...not much but there will be some. with the engine bolted on you should be able to rotate the convertor before bolting it up. there will be some resistance as the nose of the convertor engages the end of the crankshaft

In fact TCI supplied specs for that clearance. Whatever you do dont force it because you could possibly do damage to the tranny.
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