question about diff crossmember removal
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 4
question about diff crossmember removal
what exactly is it that holds the Xmember up there? is it a bolt with a nut on the end of it? a stud?
i havnt taken heat to it yet, but im having a hell of a time getting these things to budge.
i havnt taken heat to it yet, but im having a hell of a time getting these things to budge.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 14
From: Airdrie Alberta
stock config is a bolt with a weld nut on the sombrero. Mine stripped the nut so I cut the hat off and welded a new grade 8 nut on and welded everything back up
even with the bolts removed the crossmember can be stubborn to remove, just work both sides a bit at a time.
even with the bolts removed the crossmember can be stubborn to remove, just work both sides a bit at a time.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,962
Likes: 5
From: Schererville IN
Small bolt.
There is a nut welded on the other side to the frame bracket.
Mine came off very easy.
Of course I used an impact.
Once the 2 bolts are out, use a prybar to push the ends downward away from the frame...the bushings will be holding it in place.
There is a nut welded on the other side to the frame bracket.
Mine came off very easy.
Of course I used an impact.
Once the 2 bolts are out, use a prybar to push the ends downward away from the frame...the bushings will be holding it in place.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Formerly DFW Missing Texas Now in NJ
The cross member can pop off quite suddenly when you pry on it. I would suggest you leave the bolts slightly engaged so when the cross member breaks loose the bolts catch it before it smashes into your shin, foot, etc.
A good covering of penetrating oil is a must too.Also I'm assuming you've already removed the differential before you try this.
Good luck. I had to use a 3 foot pry bar to get mine to break free.
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Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,962
Likes: 5
From: Schererville IN
Or jack stands so it does not fall.
When the bushings release, it falls quick.
As Whiplash stated...leaving the bolts in a bit may help too to support it.
Also-with rear wheels off, you should be in one of the wheel wells prying on the end of the member when the member lets go.
Don't lay under it.
An assistant will be handy.
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,425
Likes: 0
From: Seattle Wash.
Put a hydralic jack under the pig to help support it.
Or jack stands so it does not fall.
When the bushings release, it falls quick.
As Whiplash stated...leaving the bolts in a bit may help too to support it.
Also-with rear wheels off, you should be in one of the wheel wells prying on the end of the member when the member lets go.
Don't lay under it.
An assistant will be handy.
Or jack stands so it does not fall.
When the bushings release, it falls quick.
As Whiplash stated...leaving the bolts in a bit may help too to support it.
Also-with rear wheels off, you should be in one of the wheel wells prying on the end of the member when the member lets go.
Don't lay under it.
An assistant will be handy.
I just did this. Whatever you do, do not lay under the car when you try to remove the crossmember and diff. The diff weighs at or near 100lbs and will hurt you if it should fall on you somehow. I had a hydraulic jack under the diff. had the bolts loosened about 1/2" and pried on the ends of the crossmember. Both sides "popped". Between the bolts only being loose and the jack under the diff, it worked out well. I then removed the bolts, lowered the jack, and slowly wheeled out the whole assembly.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater Florida
Mount the puller so that the foot of the threaded rod is on the head of the bolt and the clamp arms are hooked on the lip/edge of the crossmember.
Turn the threaded rod like the puller is normally used and the crossmember will pop right off, one side at a time.
Last edited by 67-73-76; Apr 8, 2008 at 11:01 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
The easiest and safest way to remove the crossmember is to leave the bolts partially threaded in and use a gear puller or pitman arm puller.
Mount the puller so that the foot of the threaded rod is on the head of the bolt and the clamp arms are hooked on the lip/edge of the crossmember.
Turn the threaded rod like the puller is normally used and the crossmember will pop right off, one side at a time.
Mount the puller so that the foot of the threaded rod is on the head of the bolt and the clamp arms are hooked on the lip/edge of the crossmember.
Turn the threaded rod like the puller is normally used and the crossmember will pop right off, one side at a time.
3-jaw gear puller. I tried prying mine loose with a bar, it wouldn't budge on one side.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,930
Likes: 15
From: Calgary Alberta
Why not cut the heads off of the bolts using a dremel, the you can at least drop the crossmember down. You'll be left with a bolt shank that you can then heat up and remove using a pair of vise grips. It will save you $150. I did this with one of my half shaft bolts. The sucker was impossible to remove, so I cut the hex head off of the bolts and removed the shafts. I was left with a shank and a little PB blaster with the vice grips removed the shank.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,577
Likes: 2
From: Long Island New York
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,962
Likes: 5
From: Schererville IN
Got a pair off Ebay for $100.
New Reproductions.
Seller claims same materials as OEM.
I bought and used them-very happy with them.
Look and feel the same as OEM.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=190197383190
current auction
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1963-...3286.m20.l1116
Last edited by blckslvr79; Apr 9, 2008 at 04:07 PM.